Po' Man's Carb Sync Tool?

[Daytona]

(Why would the carb manufacturer design in the added parts and expense of the 1-2 to 3-4 adjustment screw for absolutely no reason?)

OK don`t get upset, I know there is more than one way to do this. Looking at the Clyer manual they state #4 carb has no adjustment. There are only three synchronization screw that adjust the # 1,2,3. My manual says nothing about adjusting 1-2 to 3-4. Please don`t think I`m trying to be a smart ass. I`m simply stating what the manual says I have a Clyer manual #M353 96-03 GSF 1200 page 81-82. I just what to make sure I do it right and I understand what I`m doing.

Hey fellow Bandit owner! Just wanted to add my $0.02 worth! the middle screw sincs 1&2 to 3&4! Think of it just allowing the linkage next to it to be adj more or less. My manual says nothing about #4 being non adjustable! Is the 2nd gen diff?  The adjustments just allow the linkage next door to be opened or closed, two outer ones adj two carbs center adj all 4. 2nd GEN Bandits with the TPS on #4 carb of course will need to be done a bit diff. 1,2,3 to 4.

[12sdrag]

By the way, is yours a 1st gen or 2nd gen bike?

   My bike is a G2 1200. I notice your blike is a G2 600? I wonder if there is a differences between the two? Either way, I think it all comes out the same. I`m going to do mine one night this week. Need to find a couple  mpg. I think I`ll make another gauge and hook all four at one time.   I didn`t think you were coming across upset. I was actually trying to steer it away from becoming a pissing contest.   thanks for posting some good info, I learned something from it.

[Daytona]

Hello all!! A big thanks to Airmotive for getting this started!!! (PO'mans sinc tool) Hey if this hasn't been done on your bike, it needs too!!  My 98 B12 1gen had very little vibration compared to what some say their B12 has! And i thought it was running DARN good! Got over 42+ MPG, makes driver's of bad As! VIPER's know who's in charge! This sinc tool cost $1.85 it's easy to use and made this bike run better than its ever has!! Idles super!!! You can hear each cyl fire! (Race core can) I figured ok better idle that's great!!! But on my 22+mile ride to my "stinking, suck as! stupid, dirty! with a dik head boss!!!"  Oh sorry lost it for a! anyway ALL I CAN SAY IS WOW!!! SMOOTHER @ ALL SPEEDS BIG DIFF!! IF YOUR BIKE HAS A VIBRATION PROB THIS IS FOR YOU!!! My bike is almost like riding my bud's GEEEEZER GLIDE!!! SIMPLE TO DO BUT IF YOU CAN"T?  PAY TO HAVE IT DONE!!!        If your interested here is a pic! I'll walk you through it if you want but all the info U need is rite here on this forum!   http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3285/picture0681og2iv23xy.jpg

[12sdrag]

I had to post this, I know at is a bit blurry, But it can still be read. I`m only posting this because, I did not want anyone to think I was making it up. I realize the other way works and it works fine. I think this is why alot of mechanics use four gauges?

[smitty225]

Sorry to jump in here so late, but I'm primed and ready to do this.  As my bike has ~7k miles on it, the manual recommends it as well.  So far this is what I've done:

1. Added the D&D exhaust
2. Added the K&N air filter
3. Shimmed each carb (one washer each)
4. Drilled out the cover for the a/f mix screw.
5. Set each a/f screw to 2.5 turns out.
6. built a "manometer"

Now here is where I'm stuck.  I almost hate to admit it, but where to I attach the pvc tubing to the carbs? And what screw do I turn to adjust them?

Oh carburetor gods, please decend upon my ignorance like rain on a dry field so that I may bear the fruit of increased horsepower and better gas mileage!

Thanks,
Smitty

[smitty225]

Ok.  I found the sync screws in the Clymer manual, but the only thing about connecting my manometer to the carbs is thus:

"8. Connect the vacuum guage set to the vacuum fittings following the manufacturer's instructions."

.......OOOOOOH I see it.  Its under the vacuum port cap!!!! It's that little black rubber doohicky that sticks up right on top of the carb!  

Smitty

[Red01]

Yup, it's the same port used on the #4 carb to operated the fuel petcock.

[smitty225]

Well, I tried it. Made my manometer, hooked up the tubes to the vacuum port on the #4 carb, and the other on the #3 carb, and fired up the bike. Immediately, all the water in the tube got sucked into the carb. I think this means that the carbs are seriously out of sync. I tried turning the adj. screw , refilling my manometer, and starting up the bike. Same thing happens. I did this so many times, I started getting a headache from the carbon monoxide fumes.

I'm stumped. I tried turning all the adj screws to get a nice idle sound (~1500 rpm). I buttoned it all up and rode the bike around the neighborhood. It sucked. Flat spots on the throttle, cutting off, backfiring, hesitation. It seems like I've done nothing but bad to this bike. I'm almost ready to throw in the towel and take it to the "stealer".

Smitty

[Daytona]

Well, I tried it. Made my manometer, hooked up the tubes to the vacuum port on the #4 carb, and the other on the #3 carb, and fired up the bike. Immediately, all the water in the tube got sucked into the carb. I think this means that the carbs are seriously out of sync. I tried turning the adj. screw , refilling my manometer, and starting up the bike. Same thing happens. I did this so many times, I started getting a headache from the carbon monoxide fumes.

I'm stumped. I tried turning all the adj screws to get a nice idle sound (~1500 rpm). I buttoned it all up and rode the bike around the neighborhood. It sucked. Flat spots on the throttle, cutting off, backfiring, hesitation. It seems like I've done nothing but bad to this bike. I'm almost ready to throw in the towel and take it to the "stealer".

Smitty

     Hey don't do that! your so close! shoot me a PM if you need help? or we can post! I think, you don't realize how touchy the 1/4" hose is! very! when this gets close (1" of ea other, bouncy) its good! THE ADJ SCREWS ARE ALSO VERY TOUCHY! JUST THE SCREW DRIVER PUSH ON THEM WILL MAKE A DIFF!! I would crimp one hose, or use pliers to pinch off the vacuum, on start up, open and close, just to see where you are! mark one tube with black marker so you know which one is sucking the most! Its hard to explain which carb will be effected by turning screw in or out, so go either way to achieve what you need, to get the water to meet! A very slight turn will make a big diff!!!! Did you see the lousy pic of my riggins? I found that using a remote fuel source was a bunch easier, (pop bottle with a tapered tip screwed on it) fit rite in the fuel supply hose. Your vacuum hose set up sounds complicated! If you use the tank, putting it to prime will let the fuel flow, with no vacuum applied. ALSO HAVE A FAN BLOWING ON BIKE, WITH OPEN VENTILATION IS A MUST!!! DON'T FORGET THE FIRE EXTINGUISHER that works!!!                                                       http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/3285/picture0681og2iv23xy.jpg      If your bike drank the water rite away, plugged into #3&4 you will be very pleased with the outcome!!!

[smitty225]

My setup was similar to Daytona's.  Except, I propped my tank up between the legs of a 6' ladder (kinda risky, actually).  I had some pvc tubing that I used to extend the vacuum line from the gas tank to the vacuum port on the 4th carb (just kinda stuck it in the black tube).  Then I pulled the breather hose off the tank and reconnected it to the petcock and then stuck ink pen barrel in the far end and then connected that end to the fuel line that goes into the carbs.  Since the ink pen barrel is clear, I see when gas was being pulled to the carbs.

This allowed me to use the gas tank, and have some room to stick a screw driver down between the carbs.

Every time I give this stuff a little thought, it makes elementary sense.  The carb adjustment screws are just some screws that sit on top of a spring that when uncompressed or uncompressed, allows more or less gas to be sent to the carbs.  More or less gas to a carb allows the carb to do "more or less" work in comparison to the other carbs.

I also think I screwed up the throttle cable adjustment screw.  I noticed on my ride last night that, I would have to forcibly roll off the throttle.  The cable should be doing this for me.

Smitty

[Red01]

For the throttle return problem, it's not the cable that's supposed to return it for you, it's spring tension. There's two cables so you can manually close the throttle when the springs can't do it. I suspect there's some binding in your throttle cable routing that's too much for the springs to overcome.

As for the manometer issue, if you can fit a pair of matching restrictors in the hoses, that may help you get further. They're also good for stabilizing some of the inherant jumpiness in unrestricted lines.

[smitty225]

I measure success wherever I can find it.

Here's what I did.  I pulled the bike apart, found that the return throttle cable nut was almost off.  I actually had to take the top off carb 3, to tighten the nut.  I found that it was an easy adjustment screw and lock nut under the throttle grip.  After fixing the link, the throttle snaps back like stock.

Then I pulled the KN airfilter out, buttoned it up and rode it.  Now the success part.  It didn't cut off, no flat spots and no hesitation.  The exhaust was loud, and throttle response was even, but I wouldn't exactly call the ride impressive.  I was crusing around 30 - 40 mph in 2nd gear and the tach was showing 5-7k.  Isn't this a little too high?  What should I do now?

Smitty

PS.  I'll probably sync the carbs tomorrow

[Red01]

Provided you don't alter gearing with different sprockets, the rpm you turn in a certain gear for a certain road speed will always be the same in a manual transmission unless the clutch or the rear tire is slipping. Tuning will make a difference in smoothness, economy and how quickly it responds to throttle input.

[Daytona]

I measure success wherever I can find it.

Here's what I did.  I pulled the bike apart, found that the return throttle cable nut was almost off.  I actually had to take the top off carb 3, to tighten the nut.  I found that it was an easy adjustment screw and lock nut under the throttle grip.  After fixing the link, the throttle snaps back like stock.

Then I pulled the KN airfilter out, buttoned it up and rode it.  Now the success part.  It didn't cut off, no flat spots and no hesitation.  The exhaust was loud, and throttle response was even, but I wouldn't exactly call the ride impressive.  I was crusing around 30 - 40 mph in 2nd gear and the tach was showing 5-7k.  Isn't this a little too high?  What should I do now?

Smitty

PS.  I'll probably sync the carbs tomorrow

  Hey nothing you have put on this post you have done should make the rpm's change!! One thing i know you don't want too do is too many things at once! If a problem arises, you don't know which thing is wrong!! Did it run fine before the sinc escapade? or after the K&N filter was installed? 7K on a 96 B6! Its not broke in yet! Don't do any big adjustment changes until you get it running as good as it was before you started this! or like my PC it will need a new Hard drive!!!!

[smitty225]

Did it run fine before the sinc escapade? or after the K&N filter was installed? 7K on a 96 B6! Its not broke in yet! Don't do any big adjustment changes until you get it running as good as it was before you started this! or like my PC it will need a new Hard drive!!!! [/quote]

Yep.  It was running fine.  Things got hairy after I added the air filter, exhaust, shims, and change in the a/f mix.  Hmm...I guess that's alot..