Po' Man's Carb Sync Tool?

[Daytona]

Did it run fine before the sinc escapade? or after the K&N filter was installed? 7K on a 96 B6! Its not broke in yet! Don't do any big adjustment changes until you get it running as good as it was before you started this! or like my PC it will need a new Hard drive!!!!

Yep.  It was running fine.  Things got hairy after I added the air filter, exhaust, shims, and change in the a/f mix.  Hmm...I guess that's alot                    

B6 is touchy about the filter & airbox! it gets all the air it can use so why mess with it? The shims under the slide pins?? mid to top end RPM's?? The 2.5 turns out for TX maybe in the rite area, maybe out a bit much! the exhaust, if its a bolt on should have no effect, if it is a slip on with its own midpipe?? Usual effects are cold natured, & running out of go @ top end! + less mpg(shims should have cured the top end) Your 96 B6 w/D&D is a bolt on rite? Now you did the adjusting that is probably way out on carb sinc trial! Where to start? I would go back to carb sinc! You may have to do it again after its running rite! Make sure you adj the rpm to about 1500 with the adj KNOB under the carbs before adj the linkage. Then after you get the sinc job done, adj rpm down to about 1100 and turn primary screws in until it cuts out cyl, out till smooth idle is obtained on all 4 cyl. Recheck sinc of carbs if still close its up to you! the primary fuel adj will make a diff in sinc reading, also primary adj screws may have to be turned back out if it pops or bumbles on deceleration  

[JayRo]

Well, after reading all of these posts, I decided to sync my carbs as my plugs on cylinders 1 & 2 were looking quite different than 3 & 4.  After making my manometer, the whole sync process took me about an hour from soup to nuts.  I couldn't believe how off 1 & 2 was to 3 & 4.  My manometer is about a meter and a half long, and when I was doing 2 & 3 it sucked the water right to the top for my # 2 carb.  I was using 3/8 clear tubing for the manometer itself which I thought would give me plenty of water column wieght to prevent that.  I was lucky.  My B 12 now runs very smooth. For the 3 bucks I spent in some fittings.  I was worth it.  I would say that before you go through the sync process, make sure the linkage is clean.  Those adjustment screws are touchy and you don't need any grit and grime screwing things up. Just to satify my curiousity, when I was done I hooked up on 1 & 4 just to make sure everything was in line.

[smitty225]

I rode the bike last nite.  I'd like to retract my rpm concern.  It was a beast.  Perhaps think my riding technique/throttle/clutch control is getting better, so it seems a less then being strapped to the back of a raped ape.  However, when I snap the throttle, the thing GOES.

I'll tackle the carb sync next weekend.  In the meantime, I'll relish the idea that I saved my self around $500 in stealer costs.  At $85 for the 1 hour diag, a minimum of four hours for carb work, and maybe another hour for "others issues"....

Smitty

[vadim]

I see that everybody used different size tubing to do this.  How did you make sure that the tube stayed tight on the take-off valves?  

Also, does anyone know what size fuel line I need for G2 B6?  I plant to rig my gas tank nearby with a longer piece of line.

I am about to go "shopping" and want to make sure I don't need to make the trip a second time around when my gas tank is off...  :)

Thanks,

-Vadim

[smitty225]

I used 1/4" OD PVC (OD = Outer Diameter).  The ID (inside diameter) was .17 which provided a very tight fit on the vacuum nipples.

Smitty

[vadim]

Did this today (after a valve adjust).  Used 1/4 clear inch tube, 10' long.  Filled it up with water (with marker as coloring, as somebody hear suggested).  Propped up the tank on two blocks of wood and worked around the fuel lines - no problem.  Worked like a charm :)

[ChuckD]

Snappy is the word I use to describe my throttle response after a jet kit and carb sync. First carb sync I've ever done and probably the first the bike has ever had. I fancy myself as a sort of McGuyver but without the mullet, so when I saw the make your own man-o-meter threads I was intrigued. In the McGuyver vein I ordered a Yoshi jet kit for a 90-93 Katana from ebay for like 18 bucks after shipping. I was pretty sure it would work but for 18 bucks why not give it a rip. Well the install was text book and the bike fired right away after the carbs went in at 2.5 turns out. So charged full of confidence I decided to sync up those jetted out bad boys. Ya'll were right when you said it was super easy. It only took me about 45 min and about three cups of gas (when the fuel line slipped off the petcock)  Thanks to all those who shared their experiences. Oh my only tip if the levels are super jumpy or just suck all the water/oil out as soon as the engine cranks simply pinch off both tubes to restrict air flow. It will give you time dial in your adjustment, alternately you could rig up an old jet in each side of the tube but I'm lazy so there you go.

[ChuckD]

I spoke too soon it won't freakin' start now. The other day the dang thing fired right off no choke. I sync'd the carbs up with after the jet kit. I had great throttle response rolling into the throttle with any agression what so ever resulted in the front wheel rising with super wheelie power. Granted I didn't get out of second gear, she is not road legal right now so I was limited by length of the street in front of the house. I guess I had it too rich I fouled the hell out of the plugs, Or possibly the squirt of oil down each cylinder (bringing it out of storage) or the gas of unknown age I have in the fuel tank. Yeah I know I'm a schmuck for so many reasons, but I'm a schmuck whom is in need. And a schmuck in need is a schmuck indeed!  What ever the case my plugs were all black and oily, maybe sooty gas. Anyone have any suggestions? My setup is as follows.
Yoshimura Stage one Jet kit:

112 jet
needle shimmed third notch from bottom
mix screws 2.5 turns out

stock airbox and filter
Chuck's super duper straight thru exhaust, as per this picture.

no other engine mods

I have not verified spark but when I found those plugs I was exasperated and it was late in the day Sunday so I gave up. I'm picking up a fresh set of Autolites from Advance auto today. (they have a bike look up utility on their computer WOW) I'm trying to move so this isn't my priority, but I intend on slapping the plugs in and at least attempting to kick it over this afternoon.
Thanks,
Chuck

[ChuckD]

GASGASGAS. I guess I knew gas went bad but I didn't know how bad. So after draining the float bowls, checking shims and screw settings. New gas no problem. It fired right off. So a little idle adjustment and a carb sync and it runs magnificiently. At least in the low to mid range it runs well, since it has no tags lacks a functioning head and tail light and signals I can't give it a good run beyond the end of the street. Thanks again  everyone I would have had a much harder time without all the great advice.

[ldbandit76]

Just a note for anyone else who intends to use the cheap manometer to sync their carbs:  use oil in the lines instead of water.   I used Marvel Mystery Oil, which is red, thicker than water, and less likely to make a mess in your engine if it gets sucked into the carb (which obviously happens once in a while).

I synched mine 1-2, 3-4, then (1,2) to (3,4).  Not that it matters.  

Note that carb synch and valve adjustment often go together, since they both have to to do with quantity of stuff getting into the cylinders.  Do valves first, then carbs.  

Dave

[Airmotive]

When I first posted this, the instructions I pilfered off an aviation website also called for oil in the manometer. I was not sure of the effect oil would have if it were ingested into the carbs. I did know that ingesting a small amount of water would be harmless (rain, carb ice and water injection systems being the proving grounds). Plus, water was easier to deal with and a LOT easier to clean up.

With that said, oil's viscosity would give an advantage when it comes to reading the relative vacuum; water bounces around a lot and you're left with getting the carbs sync'ed to within a couple inches of water....but even a couple inches of water is equal to a tiny fraction of an inch of mercury, so water's accuracy is certainly good enough. (for you geeks, 1" of water = .07343" of mercury)

It's a matter of preference, really. I just wanted to comfort folks with the idea of a few ounces of water going through the engine. It's quite harmless and happens all the time....sometimes by design.

Just a note for anyone else who intends to use the cheap manometer to sync their carbs:  use oil in the lines instead of water.   I used Marvel Mystery Oil, which is red, thicker than water, and less likely to make a mess in your engine if it gets sucked into the carb (which obviously happens once in a while).

Dave

[Red01]

Oil shouldn't be a problem... 2-strokes burn it all the time, as do 4-strokes with bad rings or valve stem seals.

[Swamp Rat]

After having read all these post on the subject, I have to agree with Dave.
You do your valves and carbs at about the same time but do the valves first.

[Elmojo]

Ok, I am officially bummed.
I have a 2002 1200S that I decided to try to sync up.
I tried the tubing manometer as noted above, with Marvel Mystery Oil as fluid.
After giving up on trying to keep the tank in place, I unhooked it and the carb bank to get more room.
I took off all 4 vac caps (was this a mistake?) and hooked up the tubing to 3 and 4 carb.
I reconnected the carb to the intakes (Yes, I tightened the boot clamps) and hooked up the gas, with the petcock on 'pri'
I started up the bike, and got a horrible sputtery/missing/spitting idle.
I could not get it to idle smooth unless I used the choke to get the revs up around 3K, and even then it was rough.
I started playing with the idle screw to get the rpms up to the suggested 1750, but could never get it to idle without the choke.
BTW, it was running fine before I started this.
I think I adjusted the idle screw too much, because now I can't even get it to fire!
My battery is weak from all the starting, so I figured I better pause and get some advice.
Can anyone suggest a course of action?
Do I need to reconnect any of the vacuum lines to the gas tank or PAIR system?
Also, should the caps all be off or only the two I'm currently adjusting?
Please help! My baby is sick.  

[Daytona]

="Elmojo"]Ok, I am officially bummed.
I have a 2002 1200S that I decided to try to sync up.
I tried the tubing manometer as noted above, with Marvel Mystery Oil as fluid.
After giving up on trying to keep the tank in place, I unhooked it and the carb bank to get more room.
I took off all 4 vac caps (was this a mistake?) and hooked up the tubing to 3 and 4 carb.
I reconnected the carb to the intakes (Yes, I tightened the boot clamps) and hooked up the gas, with the petcock on 'pri'
I started up the bike, and got a horrible sputtery/missing/spitting idle.
I could not get it to idle smooth unless I used the choke to get the revs up around 3K, and even then it was rough.
I started playing with the idle screw to get the rpms up to the suggested 1750, but could never get it to idle without the choke.
BTW, it was running fine before I started this.
I think I adjusted the idle screw too much, because now I can't even get it to fire!
My battery is weak from all the starting, so I figured I better pause and get some advice.
Can anyone suggest a course of action?
Do I need to reconnect any of the vacuum lines to the gas tank or PAIR system?
Also, should the caps all be off or only the two I'm currently adjusting?
Please help! My baby is sick.  

You did all the wrong stuff looks like! don't do any major adj it takes just a touch to do alot. Those 4 caps can't be open to the air, i used a remote fuel supply, plastic bottle with a pint. I think your 2gen with tps needs 3 & 4 -1 & 2 then all 4 can be synced together. The vac tube needs to be hooked to your tank in order to let fuel flow unless you run it on prim. If you have # i could call ya! also don't forget a fan to keep her cooled!!!