Chain installation

[2005B12S]

Pretty hard to enlighten someone who already knows everything, but I'll try.

I was not refering to clip style masters specifically, but simply saying that chain technology has reached a point with rivet masters that it is totally unnecessary to pull the swingarm for something as simple as chain replacement.

Personally, I have used clip masters on my GS750 for many years. I believe that was all that was available back in the early 80's for an aftermarket chain. I used to run a Tsubaki 530 Sigma with no ploblems at all. Install it correctly and safety wire or use a dab of silicone to keep the clip in place. Give it a visual inspection before riding - you should do this anyway - and you are good to go.

If you think it necessary, in your infinite wisdom, to pull the arm to replace a chain, have at it.

Amazing how every aftermarket equiped GSXR, R1, Busa.....ect can survive death and destruction with a properly installed master link.

I find it amazing this conversation has gone this far.

[Red01]

Well, the comment you responded to was regarding clip-style, not master links in general. I know some people use clip-style on Bandits and more powerful machines. I just don't trust 'em when there's reliable, easy to install rivet-style master links available.

[Ranger]

[Bob Holland]

Just for the sake of disscussion, I have run clip master links on motorcycles, for drag racing and street for 40 years. If the rear wheel is aligned right you will not lose the clips, but if you have the tools to install the rivet link, you will have a more secure link.
When dragracing, I check my master link after each run, and I keep a good supply of master links just to have the extra clips. I also align my rear wheel, using the string method, not depending on the marks on the swingarm to be right.

[CWO4GUNNER]

As a bystander to all this good information it occurred to me that for the average street rider the periodicity of replacing the chin pretty much coincides with the recommended swing arm bearing inspection maintenance. Especially since there are no grease seals there to protect from pressure washing the lubricants away. So when my chain is worn or I get hooked teeth every 15,000 miles, I will most definably be doing the recommended disassembly  inspection for run-out and re-lubricating the swing arm.
 

[smooth operator]

I also run a Tsubaki Sigma on the street (I'm impressed, its been holding up well over the miles), and  I have lost clips, although I have extras,I just saftey wire them now. And I use a bigger rear sprocket and a RK race chain ( w/3 more links) on the track. I don't always have alot of time after work getting the bike ready for the track. I have my track tires mounted on a extra set of rims and just swap chains. So its easier for me to just saftey wire it on. But I do check it befor I go out. Weather it be the track or the street.   Dan

[chupacabra]

I too am putting on a new chain, not the first time I've done this but it is the first time I can't get the nut loose. I put a three foot cheater on my breaker bar (1/2" drive) and broke the breaker bar. I had the dealer put the sprockets and chain on last time because I broke the chain (DID 530VM) and they had a pick up service. I don't know what they used to put the nut on. I don't want to break any parts on the bike using the cheater. I guess what I need is a impact wrench. Anyone use a electric impact?

[regaliz2]

Hello,

Last weekend I changed the chain, at last I broke the endless chain and riveted it, this was the harder part of the job. It was a quite greasy job, when you access to the front sprocket it is full of grease, and still is   . It was not big deal to extract the front sprocket, I used a torque wrench of 200 Nm and it was easy.


Thank you very much to all of you for your wise advices.

[Rocketjock]

That was gonna be the next question. Clips? Can't you just break the chain, add the broken link and then just rivet it? That would be my choice.