Author Topic: Fouling/flooding woes continued... (Read 5393 times)

silverbandit96 · « **on:** November 20, 2005, 02:09:15 AM »

I got the bike back from the mechanic today, and about after an hour of trying to start it, without an air filter, I finally got it running. Took a long time for it to warm up and run right (its about 40 degrees out), but when it got there, we gave it some good revs. We revved it a bunch after it warmed up (it was in teh back of the truck, couldn't ride it) and then it blew out a bunch of smoke and died. I looked down and noticed a bunch of oil leaking out. It seems that I have been getting excessive blow-y coming out of the breather in the air box, and its been getting sucked backed into the carbs, possibly causing my plugs to foul up. Any idea why? Can that breather valve go bad?

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** November 20, 2005, 02:21:57 AM »

There's no valve in the breather. There's baffles in the top of the valve cover, and a hose to the airbox. You can pop the top off the cover and have a look-see for any possible blockages that may have suddenly cleared up. (I'm not holding much hope for this, and if it was blocked up, I'd be wondering why.)

Most likely, if you're getting a lot of oil thru the breather, you've probably got some serious engine troubles - like bad rings, bent valve, a hole in a piston, etc.

Do a compression check. I'm guessing one or more cylinders are somewhere between low and zero.

silverbandit96 · « **Reply #2 on:** November 20, 2005, 03:27:35 PM »

Well, today I got it running and took it for a spin. As it seems, you guys were right, my new K&N airfilter had way too much oil in it. I cleaned most of it off and dryed it out and now the bike runs better than it ever has. When I was riding it, it pulled hard all the way to 12,000rpm. It used to cut out at 5,550 with the old airfilter and 9,000 with no airfilter. That seemed to help substantially. But two problems remain. When it warms up, it doesn't want to idle at all, just like it did whenever I bought it. It has plenty of power but when I put the clutch in the tach just drops and the bike stalls out, this makes it kind hard to pull out from a dead stop, and worries me. Also, the bike gets wayy too much oil blow-by from the breather. I'm afraid Red may be right. Whenever I took it for a 5 minute ride around the block, I took it to 12,000 a couple times, I rode it pretty hard, but when i got back and pulled the stopper out of the drain hose for the air box, probably 1 cup of some oil/gas mixture poured out. I tried to do a compression test, but it seems very difficult to get the hard line from the pressure-indicator to sit in and seal good in the socket.
When it runs it seems like it is running and all cylinders and has power, and before it sat over the winter it ran fine. Any ideas what could be causing all the blow-by and no idle?

pmackie · « **Reply #3 on:** November 20, 2005, 03:50:32 PM »

Hi SilverBandit96

I'm new to the site, so I don't know what all you've gone through before now, but start with the simple things first...based on your comments, I assume you have the air filter clean and oiled correctly, and that you have good plugs, etc.

1. Adjust the idle speed. On the 2G's, there is a common adjustment knob that controls all carbs, I assume the 1G is the same. Bring the idle up to 1000-1200 rpm.

2. Adjust the air screws until you get the most consisitent idle. Turn the screws no more that 1/4 turn at a time. I'm assuming your mixture screws are assessable. Your idle speed should increase slightly as you get the mxiture set right. Keep playing with the idle mixture until the enging idles correctly. You will want to go for a blast around the block from time to time.

3. Once you get the mixture right, your idle speed will likely have increased. Reduce it to 1200 rpm.

That should be all there is to it, assuming the bike is running correctly in other respects. The bad news is, if the compression is low on one or more cylinders, or if you have any intake air leaks, or other mechanical problems, you will chase the idle around and around. It will at times increase and at other times die.

silverbandit96 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 20, 2005, 04:31:20 PM »

Thanks for the advice. I think I may know what is causing the excess blow off. I realized there was a lot of gas mixed in with my oil whenever I drained my airbox, and now looking at my oil, it has teh consistency of water, and its 42 degrees out. I think that may be my problem. Hopefully I didn't do to much damage. I'm trying to change the oil now. How the hell do you guys reach your oil filters?

Daytona · « **Reply #5 on:** November 20, 2005, 08:04:36 PM »

Hey sounds like your beside yourself. If you let it get to you its all over!! I have bought more things that were supposedly junk only to find a small item was over looked! Never over fill the eng it will fill the airbox with oil, it comes from the sling off the cam chain, never attempt to run a bandit with out the filter or filter housing cover! Way too much air! Unless its been re jetted with a stage 3 or better! The 600 needs no more air than it gets from the stock stuff! Also after or if you get it running and idling ok have a or do a carb sync! You won't believe what good it will do for even a good running bike! I know first hand. Less than $5.00 if you use the instructions from this site. BBS Po mans carb sync> GOOD LUCK

Red01 · « **Reply #6 on:** November 20, 2005, 08:43:16 PM »

I remove the filter with one of these filter wrenches:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=36778

I put new ones on with one like this, that's made for the filter.

NOTE: Some branks of filters have different size wrenching surface than others. K&N oil filters have a nice regular (17mm) wrenching flat on the end, so no special tools are needed.

silverbandit96 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 21, 2005, 02:04:39 PM »

Well good news, I fixed the blow-by problem. All the flooding had let gas run into the oil, and the oil was almost watery, and overfull. I changed the oil (didn't change the filter, I have to get a smaller oil wrench), and ran it today. Seems to have a lot of trouble starting and I can't even rev it until it warms up, but it was about 35 degrees out today. Once it warmed up I turned the idle up so it'd idle and rode it some. I rode it for about a half an hour, wound it out a couple times, and brought it home. I think it just needed ran real bad and probably needs the carbs re-tuned because we've taken them apart so much. I'll pmackie's advice and mess-around with the carbs some, I should be able to get it running really well.

tacoman · « **Reply #8 on:** November 21, 2005, 02:05:16 PM »

Did you say you had lots of gas in your oil? If so, change it now. It will not run right if gas is in there. Your oil is so thinned out it blows by everything. If you have/had gas in the oil do this. Drain it, buy some cheap oil and fill it up. Run the motor for a short period and drain again. Now put in the good stuff. You may need to change it again after a few hundred miles.

silverbandit96 · « **Reply #9 on:** November 21, 2005, 02:07:39 PM »

Yeah, i'm gonna change it again soon with the filter. I had this exact same problem with my car (1965 Ford Falcon). It had a bad coil, and from all the cranking and flooding the oil just filled up with gas, which is no good.

smooth operator · « **Reply #10 on:** November 22, 2005, 09:32:19 PM »

Could you have left the pet cock on prime posistion? Wich would let the fuel drain down into the carbs and down into the bottom end(I think). I like the K&N filters, they have a hex head that you can get on with a wrench,and a hole for safety wiring.

Red01 · « **Reply #11 on:** November 22, 2005, 10:51:56 PM »

Quote from: "smooth operator"

Could you have left the pet cock on prime posistion? Wich would let the fuel drain down into the carbs and down into the bottom end(I think).

It'll only do that of your float needle & seat aren't doing their job.