Author Topic: Torque wrench / Oil change ? (Read 13250 times)

Grissom · « **on:** April 05, 2007, 11:33:26 AM »

How many of you use a torque wrench when tightening the oil drain plug?

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #1 on:** April 05, 2007, 11:44:33 AM »

I do... definelty worth the piece of mind. My first few were done with the FAR method (feels about right) but once it seemed like things were too snug. Now with the torque wrench I just do the ol' Ron Popiel thing... set it and forget it.

Red01 · « **Reply #2 on:** April 05, 2007, 12:47:37 PM »

I've been using German torque (gootentite) on all my drain plugs. Haven't stripped one yet.
(On aircraft I do use one because it's required by law... but I've never owned an aircraft.)

longislandbandit99 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 02, 2007, 06:08:25 PM »

Aside from plunking down cash on the freakin' special tool, what is a good way of getting that filter off and back on correctly?

ZenMan · « **Reply #4 on:** May 02, 2007, 06:47:34 PM »

Quote from: "longislandbandit99"

Aside from plunking down cash on the freakin' special tool, what is a good way of getting that filter off and back on correctly?

Plunk down cash for the freakin' special tool.

It's only a few bucks and you can put a ratchet and extension on it, or a 17mm wrench or socket, same size as the drain plug.

I just did my first oil change on the B1250, and without that tool, it woulda been pretty tough getting behind the header pipes. With it, I used a 17mm box-end through the side and it was a piece of cake.

pmackie · « **Reply #5 on:** May 02, 2007, 07:12:51 PM »

The special tool is the best, but a simple, cheap rubber strap wrench works for me.

I only put them ON hand tight, and check for leaks.

CWO4GUNNER · « **Reply #6 on:** May 03, 2007, 02:26:41 AM »

Frisk Fisk · « **Reply #7 on:** May 03, 2007, 04:11:07 AM »

What is the torque spec for a drain plug on a 1200 Bandit or 1250S. Are they both the same? Can you use a torque wrench to find a spec by loosening a bolt to find out how much to tighten it? I use a torque wrench so seldom that I have to go back to school first when I do. Sort of like trying to figure internal rates of return on my Texas Instruments BAII Plus.

smooth operator · « **Reply #8 on:** May 03, 2007, 07:53:09 AM »

I don't,just snug it down good. Don't over tighten,and strip the aluminum. Its also saftey wired,so it can't back out. In fact pretty much everything is wired on my Bandit.

PaulVS · « **Reply #9 on:** May 03, 2007, 10:55:34 AM »

As an aside here... I think it's a myth that the bike has to be 'hot' when you change the oil.

Yes, you definitely should take the bike out and get it up to full normal operating temperature... and then go home and put it up on it's centerstand to change the oil... but you can let it cool down for a while first.

The 'sludge' that has heated up from your ride will drain into the pan and stay there until you drain it. There is no way it can magically defy gravity and climb back up into the engine.

That is, of course, unless you go out and start it for 30 seconds before you change the oil.

The one exception to this that I can see is if it's freezing cold - you don't want to let the bike sit too long (Like more than a 1/2 hour or so) before draining it, because some of the 'sludge' won't even drain out of the pan at that point.

Just my $.02 worth.

Dave 02 1200 · « **Reply #10 on:** May 03, 2007, 02:58:20 PM »

I use a 1/4 " drive torque wrench because it is easier to use and is very accurate for lower torque values. The torque spec is 198 inch/lbs (16.5 ft/lbs) per workshop manual).

The Suzuki oil filter wrench is only about $10.00 and works well. It fits and there isn't much room for other types of tools.

Lastly, I put a screw-type hose clamp over the hex head of the drain plug after tightening to keep it in place in the unlikely event that it would start to come loose.

The screw head on the clamp will keep the drain plug from rotating out because there isn't room for it to fit next to the casting on the oil pan. (Cheap insurance.)

My 2 cents: Get a 1/4" drive touque wrench and the Suzuki oil filter wrench. Use them often - on your bike and your friend's bikes too.

Oh, and don't forget to either safety wire the drain plug or put on a hose clamp for extra safety. Race rules require it for good reason. (Can you imagine what might happen if the oil drain plug came out and oiled your rear tire while you are going fast or riding around a curve? Not to mention that you could damage the motor)

Good luck.

Red01 · « **Reply #11 on:** May 03, 2007, 03:04:25 PM »

Quote from: "Frisk Fisk"

What is the torque spec for a drain plug on a 1200 Bandit or 1250S. Are they both the same? Can you use a torque wrench to find a spec by loosening a bolt to find out how much to tighten it?

I'll let someone with a manual handier than mine answer the first question. I don't know if any of our 1250 owners have a manual yet, so don't be surprised if you don't get an answer for that one, but if their drain plugs are the same size, their torque specs are probably the same.

As for the second question, the short answer is, NO. It will take more torque to get it to start moving.

Dave 02 1200 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 03, 2007, 03:47:53 PM »

You might check with your dealer to see if the 1250 drain plug part numbers are the same as the 1200. My guess is that it will be the same, but it pays to check.

Some riders are of the mistaken belief that "tighter is better" and, without a torque wrench, end up stripping threads.

If you don't have a torque wrench, I think you can get by just fine with a "just-snug-but-not-too-tight" drain plug as long as you use safety wire or a hose clamp to keep it from coming loose. (The "just-snug" drain plug will not have the same amount of friction holding it in place as one that is torqued to spec. so you should have some other means of keeping it from backing out)

In my experience, a "just-snug" drain plug usually won't leak if the sealing washer is in good shape and the surfaces are clean.

Good Luck

ZenMan · « **Reply #13 on:** May 03, 2007, 04:44:42 PM »

Quote from: "Red01"

Quote from: "Frisk Fisk"
What is the torque spec for a drain plug on a 1200 Bandit or 1250S. Are they both the same? Can you use a torque wrench to find a spec by loosening a bolt to find out how much to tighten it?

I'll let someone with a manual handier than mine answer the first question. I don't know if any of our 1250 owners have a manual yet, so don't be surprised if you don't get an answer for that one, but if their drain plugs are the same size, their torque specs are probably the same.

As for the second question, the short answer is, NO. It will take more torque to get it to start moving.

On the B1250, I don't have a shop manual yet, but all the owner's manual says is to "tighten drain plug snugly". The head size is 17mm.

It does list a torque spec for the oil filter... 14.5 ft-lbs., or two full turns once the gasket touches the surface. But I just hand-tightened it as usual.

longislandbandit99 · « **Reply #14 on:** May 04, 2007, 12:29:53 AM »

I asked my auto mechanic and the tool guy he buys tools from about inch-pounds torque wrenches a while back. They said since I'd only use the thing once in a while, the best way to guess correctly is to use the gorilla strength rule. If you need to apply gorilla strength to tighten it, that's probably too tight. With any drain plug I've ever tightened, I get it snug by hand then get it seated with a rachet and I finish it off with just enough push so that three fingers is about enough to move the bolt. I don't grip the tool and wrench it home. That is how I was told to take a good guess at inch-pounds torque.