Author Topic: wheel bearings (Read 4987 times)

chupacabra · « **on:** April 30, 2007, 07:24:08 AM »

I want to change my own wheel bearing front and back wheels. What I want to know is do I really need all those special tools thats the manual says to use? I know that those tools will make it real ez but thats about $300 in tools. I know I need to remove and replace them evenly so not to buger up the seats. Can I remove them with a hammer and a drift or not? I'm sure I can tap them in but not so sure I can get them out first. Anyone done this?

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #1 on:** April 30, 2007, 10:15:36 AM »

+1 on the above.....

... and if anyone should have part numbers for the bearings that would be much appreciated.

pmackie · « **Reply #2 on:** April 30, 2007, 12:34:05 PM »

As long as your throwing the old bearings out, you can usually get them out with a drift and a bunch of patience.

For installing new bearings, you can use the old bearings as part of your assembly drift.

Just be carefull and don't let the bearings "cock" or they will damage the wheel hub.

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2007, 03:22:20 PM »

Quote from: "txbanditrydr"

+1 on the above.....

... and if anyone should have part numbers for the bearings that would be much appreciated.

Your best bet is to look at the brand of the bearing and the part number they marked on it. Take that info down to a bearing supply store and buy replacements that way. Most of the time they'll be MUCH cheaper than buying from a dealer. For specialty bearings, you may have to go to a dealer, but I seriously doubt wheel bearings are in that category. Manufacturers want to keep their costs down, so use off-the-shelf parts whenever they can and there's no reason for a wheel bearing to be anything special, especially in a Bandit.

chupacabra · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2007, 03:35:25 PM »

You can use the parts fiche at Ron Ayers to find part numbers.
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/getman.cfm

pmackie, have you done this before? Sometimes they make it so you can't hit the race with a drift so you need that special tool. I'm just tring to find out before I start. If I can't get them out I can bring the wheels to the bike shop, but if I try it when their closed then I'll be stuck.

pmackie · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2007, 05:57:01 PM »

Hey chupacabra:

I have NOT done this on the Bandit, but have on lots of other bikes. I have some of my own "special" tools in my tool box, and some small pullers. Usually, once you get the bearing to move, it comes out pretty easily.

At a minimum you'll need a long, flat end drift with sharp edges, to catch the inner race. Sometimes a little heat on the hub helps.

smooth operator · « **Reply #6 on:** May 01, 2007, 07:07:57 AM »

Quote from: "Red01"

Quote from: "txbanditrydr"
+1 on the above.....

... and if anyone should have part numbers for the bearings that would be much appreciated.

Your best bet is to look at the brand of the bearing and the part number they marked on it. Take that info down to a bearing supply store and buy replacements that way. Most of the time they'll be MUCH cheaper than buying from a dealer. For specialty bearings, you may have to go to a dealer, but I seriously doubt wheel bearings are in that category. Manufacturers want to keep their costs down, so use off-the-shelf parts whenever they can and there's no reason for a wheel bearing to be anything special, especially in a Bandit.

Thats what I did,went to a bearing supply. Its was even on the way to the dealer coming from my house. If you have any big sockets you can match up to the size of the bearing. Also when installing the new bearings,put them in the freezer for awhile and the wheel next to something warm.(we already had the wood stove burning) Dan

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #7 on:** May 01, 2007, 10:06:52 AM »

Okay... so putting them in seems like the easy part. I figure you could make a press tool with some threaded rod, washers and the old bearing to seat the new ones.

Anyone care to offer up a more detailed description on removal procedures?? How do you pull the seals off?? Inquiring minds want to know.

Red01 · « **Reply #8 on:** May 01, 2007, 02:30:58 PM »

Either pry the seals out, or drive them out with the bearing.

Install new seal(s) with new bearing(s).

GETFURIOUS · « **Reply #9 on:** May 23, 2007, 06:31:04 PM »

FIRST, GET ALL THE NEW PARTS BEFORE YOU START TO REMOVE THE OLD PARTS.....

YOU CAN JUST PRY THE SEAL OUT WITH A PRY BAR OR SCREWDRIVER.....

YOU CAN ALSO TAKE A PROPANE TORCH AND HEAT THE WHEEL HUB UP A LITTLE PRIOR TO REMOVING THE OLD BEARING OR INSTALLING THE NEW BEARING (MAKE SURE THAT YOU REMOVE THE SEAL FIRST).....

BE SURE TO ONLY HEAT THE HUB SLIGHTLY AND MOVE THE TORCH AROUND TO ALL SIDES OF THE HUB CONSTANTLY.....THIS SHOULD TAKE ABOUT 1 TO 2 MINUTES OR LESS.....

WHILE THE HUB STILL IS WARM, DRIVE THE OLD BEARING OUT AND EITHER HEAT THE WHEEL AGAIN OR IMMEDIATELY INSTALL THE NEW BEARING WHILE THE HUB IS STILL WARM FROM THE REMOVAL.....

BE SURE TO USE PATIENCE AND COMMON SENSE AND YOU SHOULD HAVE NO TROUBLE.....

chupacabra · « **Reply #10 on:** May 24, 2007, 06:02:34 AM »

Box of parts will be at my door thursday or friday

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #11 on:** May 24, 2007, 10:12:18 AM »

Quote from: "chupacabra"

Box of parts will be at my door thursday or friday

Take some pics.... I'd like to try this too. I'm still not clear on the removal aspect.

chupacabra · « **Reply #12 on:** May 24, 2007, 04:19:09 PM »

I'm going to give it a go, but I'm still not clear on the removal aspect ether! May have to bring the wheels into the shop. I'm sure if I bought all those pullers and other special tools it would be very ez.

chupacabra · « **Reply #13 on:** June 15, 2007, 06:04:52 AM »

Well I got after it this afternoon. Very ez job. Took three hours to do front and rear. Simply use a drift to take out the old bearing. No special tools needed. Sorry no photos, didn't want to get the camara all dirty and didn't want to slow down messing with pics, sorry. Went well. Fronts where bad from riding in the rain and no way to lube them without taking them out. Suzuki says if you take them out replace them, but I think if your careful you can pop them out clean and pack them and put them back. Just my opinion. I let mine go to long to save them, I had to replace the fronts. The rears I'm going to clean and look at closer. I have just under 60,000 miles on them. Two of the rears didn't seam all that bad, but one was sealed on both sides and didn't turn so good when I put my finger inside and checked it, kind of sticky.

pmackie · « **Reply #14 on:** June 15, 2007, 12:22:41 PM »

Quote

The rears I'm going to clean and look at closer. I have just under 60,000 miles on them.

Since you need to use a drift on the inner race to remove them, you should replace them regardless. The side load on the ball and race can cause some slight deformation and/or you can crack the hard surface. It's just not worth it to reuse old bearings, especially at this mileage.

If you really want to clean and lube existing bearings, remove the outseals, and bearing seals, wash the bearing with clean solvent, and repack them full of grease. Use a wheel bearing grease or a NLGI #2 EP grease with an oil viscosity of 180-240 Cst.