Author Topic: Broken Capscrew - Help (Read 5456 times)

txbanditrydr · « **on:** May 16, 2005, 09:46:31 PM »

I thought a lower bolt on my case guard vibrated loose. I went to replace it and found that it sheared off about 3/32" below the face of the threaded mounting lug on the frame.

I was wondering if anyone has removed something like this and how they did it.

I am thinking of using a dremal tool and carve a straight slot into it so I could use some sort of screwdriver. I don't have any "easyouts" but will buy one if that is the only decent solution. Not quite ready to fire up the ol' cutting torch just yet.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #1 on:** May 16, 2005, 11:06:39 PM »

I'm having trouble picturing where it is but if it's below the face of something, I'm not sure the dremel/slot/screwdriver method will work without bitching up something on your new bike. I've used that lots of times when I've screwed up the hole in an allen bolt, though (just make sure you heat it up to melt the threadlock, if any, before trying to move it with the screwdriver. I've never used one but I know of people who have had really good luck with easyouts, too. Good luck!

PeteSC · « **Reply #2 on:** May 16, 2005, 11:11:38 PM »

Is this something that may be worth taking the bike to a shop to have them do it?

Would a small machine shop be able to do something like this?

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** May 16, 2005, 11:11:53 PM »

If it broke off below the face, cutting a slot in it is going to be difficult.

Since it's broken, there shouldn't be much torque keeping it in, you may be able to back it out with a pick (or similar device). If that doesn't work, a reverse twist drill bit in a drill (running in reverse) may also back it out if it's in too tight to be backed out with a pick. If it doesn't, you're already one step along the way for the EZ-Out process.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #4 on:** May 16, 2005, 11:46:10 PM »

A quick drawing shows the general nature of the problem.... So how are EZ outs sold??... different sizes, metrics..... I would like to have this fixed by the weekend. Thanks for the replies.

Red01 · « **Reply #5 on:** May 17, 2005, 12:04:15 AM »

They are sold in sets or individually. Should be able to find them at most auto parts and hardware stores as well as Sears. They are numbered on a size system all their own and are not picky about the thread type.

#1: 1/8" - 1/4" (3mm - 6mm)
#2: 1/4" - 5/16" (6mm - 8 mm)
#3: 5/16" - 7/16" (8mm - 11mm)
#4: 7/16" - 9/16" (11mm - 14mm)
#5: 9/16" - 3/4" (14mm - 19mm)
...and so on.[/list]

Steve · « **Reply #6 on:** May 17, 2005, 04:35:56 AM »

Take a punch and dimple the center of the broken bolt, this will help your drill start. Use a new bit that is the correct size for the smallest EZ out you can find. Keep your drill tip wet, WD will work OK. Drill straight, you don't want to get into the threads on the sides, go no deeper than you have to to get the EZ out to bite. Chuck the EZ out into a tap handle, blow the hole out so there is no debris in the threads, give 'er a little squirt of WD and you should be able to twist that SOB outta there with little force like Paul suggested.

Steve

NCBANDIT · « **Reply #7 on:** May 17, 2005, 11:22:53 AM »

Alot of times, with smaller bolts, the ez out tends to break. If you find this happens, I always try to have the hole centered, then I work up in drill bits till I'm very close to the threads. Sometimes this makes the walls thin enough I can take a pick and start folding it in till it's loose enough to back out. Then I take a tap and chase the threads out and it's ready to go. If you do not feel confident doing this, do not attempt it, the threads can be dameged if great care is not taken.

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #8 on:** May 17, 2005, 09:24:32 PM »

Just wanted to let y'all know I got it out. Went and bought a set of EZ outs - might have gotten by with just one but they came with the drills and case for 18 bucks.

New bolt is in and just need to slap a little black paint on the washers. Still not sure why it sheared. I thought the guard needed some "wallering" out but there was plenty of clearance for all three bolts. Must have been a bad bolt.

Anyway .....

to everyone!!!1

snofrog · « **Reply #9 on:** May 17, 2005, 10:05:31 PM »

a good welder can tig some weld on the top of the broken bolt(doesnt matter how big or small) enough to grab with vise grips .the heat from the welding is enough to break it loose . I have done this many times at work and it does work very well ! M

NCBANDIT · « **Reply #10 on:** May 18, 2005, 12:04:07 AM »

I was going to mention that snofrog, works good in aluminum. But the bolt in question was in steel so it would very easliy become welded to the frame creating an even better problem.

( I always weld a nut to the top of a broken bolt in aluminum, works great)

00Bandit Rider · « **Reply #11 on:** May 18, 2005, 10:08:24 AM »

There is also a thing called EDM (electro diischarge machining)
big machine shops have the stuff, it disintergrates the item but it requires dissassembly. The machine looks something like a drill press & is not portable.( Paul we used it to stuff a feeler gauge into a block of metal
to make calibration blocks for UT testing)(artificial cracks) Works in Alum - steel & magnesium to extract taps which are to hard to drill.

Red01 · « **Reply #12 on:** May 18, 2005, 07:47:49 PM »

Had to do something like that on a Contenental 0-200 (Cessna 150 engine) carb I was rebuilding. One of the little screws had broken off in the carb body and it was too risky to try to get it out with more conventional means. The carb body was soft pot metal, not unlike your typical m/c carb, and a very expensive part to buy new, so it was woth the $80 or so the shop charged to extract the screw.

terrebandit · « **Reply #13 on:** May 18, 2005, 08:09:57 PM »

Hey Jay,

Didn't you have the dealer put those on for you as part of the deal when you bought the bike? I'll bet that was the problem. They probably used an air impact to install them and over torqued the fastner.

Dave

txbanditrydr · « **Reply #14 on:** May 18, 2005, 10:56:30 PM »

I put those on myself Dave, however I only had the "swiss army knife" of metric allen drivers so I KNOW they weren't over torqued.... In fact I checked the others with some allen sockets (purchased after the valve adjust) and they all needed another 1/8 turn - except for the sheared one of course.