I agree after riding today in semi-warm weather, the bike loves to turn but the tires say "No way Jose" I think for my weight and riding style, not a hooligan but like to move smartly, the stock suspension setup is fine. The tires while being well short of "Suck", seem to be taylored to the touring end of the spectrum, it seems Suzuki got kind of confused at the end of the day when pumping out these bikes from the factory especially the second generation. It like some drunk Japanese designers had a bar fight or something. "It's a tourer!!!" " No it's a sport bike!!!" and then their manager came along and said "We'll just put touring tires on the sport bike."
A major factor that really drew me to this bike was the reliablility factor. I've owned 3 GS's, my friend owns an all original Katana 1100. And I've never seen the engine or drivetrain fail EVER on any of the GS's I've owned or my friends bikes. Even when sometimes the maintenance has been lax. My friend was down a litre and a half of oil and the oil light didn't even come on and the bike still drove perfectly!! In fact if you guys ever go to the GS resources site I've never seen even in the technical forum any catastrophic failure of engine componants when proper(or improper) maintanance was done within reason. Just recently on my GS750EF which I'm selling now, the vavle springs were weak because the previous owner let the bike sit to long and compressed some of the springs. We did a top end rebuild over the winter and put her all back together and she ran like she was brand new. Even at 78,000 KMS all the pistons and rings were still within spec, she just needed new springs and she was good to go!!
Another factor which really drew me to this bike was the old school setup. My first bike was a 78 RD400 so it show the age of the bikes I'm used to. To me AIR and OIL cooling is the perfect setup for reliability and low maintenance. There is no radiator to flush, nor boil overs, mixing of water and coolant and all that other hassle you have to do. You literally have to change the oil and your good to go. I don't know how much simpler it can get than that. Also on these GS based engines it works on a low oil pressure system so if you are a little low on oil or one the journals is slightly gummed up you're probably still good to go as there is a lot of reserve built into the engine. Also with oil cooling it's easier to fix if something goes wrong. On My GS750EF I had one of the oil cooler lines develop a small leak and I replaced the line in about 10 mins, you could still drive easily as it was just seeping out, but I'd say one slightly leaky oil line in 21 years says something about the reliability of the oil cooling setup. The rad NEVER leaked till this day. Try that on a liquid cooled bike!!
From just gathering info from you Bandit experts it also seems that the engine still has alot of reserve power built in to them as well. With a simple rejetting and slip on some people are reporting a 15-20 HP increase with no internal engine mods at all. Some of you crazy guys have even installed GSXR cams and whatnot and are getting an increadable 150 HP!! Holy!! You guys don't fool around!!
I'm very happy with my purchase, where else can you get such a package for $7999 Canadian, that's lower than the MRSP for the Bandit 650!! All I need to do now is fix a buzz in the fairing at 2500 RPM or so which is annoying as hell. I took apart the fairing slightly and put some rubber at the top left corner but it's still buzzing a bit. Based on your guys experience where does the fairing buzz usually occur? Near where the mirrors screw in? That 4mm bolt slightly down from the mirrors? Is it better to rubberize the top of the windscreen or underneath? Any advice would be helpfull. If I have to I'll take the fairing apart and rubberize(?) all the contacts points of the windscreen but if there is a common place that I could quickly take care of it would be helpfull. Thanks in advance.