Author Topic: ENGINE CASE GUARD QUESTION? (Read 4837 times)

banditII · « **on:** July 24, 2005, 08:52:10 PM »

I just installed suzuki's engine case gaurds on my 05 B12 Bandit. Does anyone know if these guards limit cornering clearance more than the foot pegs? Would the engine gaurds drag before the pegs?

Warren

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** July 24, 2005, 09:02:59 PM »

Not sure which one drags first, but keep an eye on the welds!
The OEM guards are known to crack at the welds without any impact. Part of the reason may be because they are designed for the Bandits with the lower motor mount the US versions don't have. Some people have installed shims (washers) between the guards and the lower frame holes to help make up for this.

You can see how thick the lower motor mount is if you look at the silver triangular piece bridging the frame and motor just forward of the sidestand.

banditII · « **Reply #2 on:** July 24, 2005, 09:57:31 PM »

Thanks for the info Paul. This kit came with some spacers and then flat washers that go between the guards and the frame then lock washers for the screws.

That sure is a fancy custom Bandit you have there!

Warren

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** July 24, 2005, 11:54:43 PM »

Good to know they're including spacers now, they didn't used to.

The bike above isn't mine, just a pic I stumbled across that I liked.

Runerx · « **Reply #4 on:** July 25, 2005, 08:24:33 PM »

The engine mushrooms that I bought from Bandit mania came with a heavy aluminum spacer for the upper mount. Makes It all fit nicely with no bending or binding.

Dj

banditII · « **Reply #5 on:** July 25, 2005, 08:53:27 PM »

I may be that the latest OEM case guards are different than they used to be? I didn't have to bend anything to get them to fit, they went on perfect........thank goodness. Cause I'm a mechanical idiot. If I can install it, anybody can. Two bolts went to the vertical frame and one mounted to the lower horizantal part of the frame.

Warren

solman · « **Reply #6 on:** July 30, 2005, 02:21:32 PM »

I didn't notice any problems installing my OEM case guards either.

ray nielsen · « **Reply #7 on:** July 30, 2005, 03:31:31 PM »

The newer Suzuki brand case guards appear to be better made than earlier versions which had welds break due to vibration.

Mine were bought and installed in the spring of 2004. They've been on for about 18K miles with no welds breaking. I've tipped the bike over twice, once on each side at a standstill with nothing worse than scratched paint.
PJ-1 Fast Black Satin has covered the mistakes well.
I thought about adding foot pegs to the guards, but decided they'd stick out too far and probably get damaged first in case I tipped her over again.

NCBANDIT · « **Reply #8 on:** July 30, 2005, 10:16:29 PM »

Do any of you guys have problems with grinding your caseguards into the road in hard cornering? I have done this a couple times here lately, even when hanging off. It's making me want a thinner sportier bike with higher pegs.

banditII · « **Reply #9 on:** July 30, 2005, 10:25:26 PM »

I don't yet know how to copy a quote from what someone else says, but what NCBandit just wrote is what scares me about the engine gaurds. I may have wasted my money on them. You definetely don't want to grind them into the pavemet which could probably cause a crash real quick. I've got a 9R sportbike for the sportier stuff but the bandit is big fun in the curves and plenty competent. I plan on carefully leaning the thing further and further and see how it goes. I may end up taking mine off and selling them to someone who doesn't care so much for the curves. It's about a wash really, the engine gaurds are a hundred bucks, an engine casing probably runs near the same? Of course the gaurds may prevent you from getting stranded and / or help prevent more damage to the fairing and such in case of tip over such as mentioned earlier.

Warren

snofrog · « **Reply #10 on:** July 30, 2005, 10:41:30 PM »

while not a perfect method you could hold a 4`x8` sheet of plywood up with one edge touching your tires and see what will rub l/ M

banditII · « **Reply #11 on:** July 30, 2005, 11:24:19 PM »

Good idea Ivan! I'll try that tomorrow after Church.

Warren

banditII · « **Reply #12 on:** July 31, 2005, 08:49:33 PM »

I tried the plywood deal and it seems that the footpegs will indeed touch first before the engine gaurds, but just barely. So it's a tuff decision whethor or not to leave them ( engine guards ) on. If you come into a turn too hot and make the pegs flex in much at all then you will hit the guards and quite possibly crash. But overall, I think the bike has enough clearance. I'll have to think this one over though.

Warren

NCBANDIT · « **Reply #13 on:** July 31, 2005, 10:17:28 PM »

Well, so far I've found the pegs hit first, but VERY soon after, the casegaurds hit. Then I found out today that the midpipe hits right after that. It hasn't caused anything bad YET, as a matter of fact except for my toe sliders and peg hitting I don't even notice the case gaurds hitting till I actually see it.

Sorry guys, I would love to keep the bandit, but I think it will have to go. my riding style exceeds it's capabilities. I thought about rearsets, but that's not gonna help a thing. The casegaurds will still hit, and the exhaust. I'm sure I'll have the bandit the rest of this year, but next year I'll be showing up at the rally on an SV1k hopefully.

On a sidenote, even grinding everything you can grind, my knee is still 2-3 inches off the ground so I have no good way to tell how far over I am. Not a good feeling.

Keep the shiny side up, Josh

terrebandit · « **Reply #14 on:** July 31, 2005, 10:30:18 PM »

I've had two sets of the OEM case guards on two different bikes and 50K total miles. No cracked welds. In fact, I've known many others who have had these guards with no issues whatsoever. I think the cracked weld thing is just a bunch of BS and nothing to worry about.

BTW...Pegs will touch before the guards.