Author Topic: steps on cleaning chain? Sorry if repost (Read 5558 times)

fake · « **on:** September 06, 2005, 05:53:14 PM »

I did a search and can't find what i'm looking for.

How do ya'll clean and lube your chain? Step by step is possible. I'm going to clean mine in a few days. I've never cleaned a chain before.

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** September 06, 2005, 06:10:53 PM »

Wipe it down with kerosene. Diesel fuel, jet fuel or WD-40 works well if you don't have any kero around. For stubborn spots, you can use a brush, but I'd avoid brushes with metal bristles or any bristle you think is hard enough to damage the o-rings.

Once the chain is dry, lube it with your favorite lube.
If you don't have a favorite lube yet, READ THIS THREAD.

Tundrahog · « **Reply #2 on:** September 06, 2005, 06:23:42 PM »

I put the bike up on the center stand, and scrub the chain using a stiff brush and Kerosene. The brush I have I bought at Walmart and looks like an oversized tooth brush. I usually clean 5-6 links at a time and rotate the wheel to expose the next area. Once the entire chain is clean I rinse it off and apply some chain lube. I use the Honda lube and it seems to work good. There used to be a thread on the board that linked to a test one of the magazines did comparing different lubes and waxes.

Its pretty straight forward and only takes 10-15 minutes, I don't think it's critical that you get every bit of dirt off. 98% will come off just scrubbing for a few seconds.

Good luck

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 06, 2005, 06:35:19 PM »

Quote from: "Tundrahog"

There used to be a thread on the board that linked to a test one of the magazines did comparing different lubes and waxes.

It's still here! That's the where I sent him when I posted

Quote

If you don't have a favorite lube yet, READ THIS THREAD.

fake · « **Reply #4 on:** September 06, 2005, 06:35:55 PM »

do you just rotate the rear wheel, and spray on the chain as it rotates?

Red01 · « **Reply #5 on:** September 06, 2005, 06:41:20 PM »

The way I do it is:
Spray lube on the top side of the lower run from as far forward as can easily be reached to the rear sprocket, rotate the wheel to put a new section of untreated chain in "the zone," spray that, and repeat until I've got the whole thing. Takes 4-5 spray zones to make it around once.

Most lubes work best on a warm chain, but if you clean it cold, lube it before you ride it, then you can lube it again after a warm-up ride if it looks like it needs it.

Tundrahog · « **Reply #6 on:** September 07, 2005, 11:37:45 AM »

Quote from: "Red01"

It's still here! That's the where I sent him when I posted

Damn I guess I need to type faster (or maybe think faster) your post wasn't there when I started.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #7 on:** September 07, 2005, 01:48:05 PM »

It's best to let the lube set-up for a while before riding so it doesn't fling all over the place. I usually lube when I'm putting the bike away for the night.

ray nielsen · « **Reply #8 on:** September 07, 2005, 04:26:11 PM »

Dupont is making an all purpose Teflon based lube that's recommended for chains and cables as well as other applications. Motorcycle Consumer News did a product evaluation on it recently and found it particularly good at avoiding crud build up -- even on dirt roads.

I found it at my local shop, Bob's Cycle Supply in St. Paul, MN <www.bobscycle.com> for $6.99 for a large spray can.

MCNs web site has an evaluation in the forum section -- I think the site is <www.mcnews.com> or something similar. Do a search if that doesn't work.

The stuff works well for pivot points too, like brake and clutch levers, shifter linkages, etc.

LowRyter · « **Reply #9 on:** September 07, 2005, 07:48:10 PM »

kerosene and rag works best for cleaning. WD40 does about the same.

I like Chain Wax for lube. It's real clean & doesnt fling off. I havent had so much luck with some of the more "serious" stuff with moly & lithium. Those lubes seem to attract dirt and that cause greater wear. The real protection is from the O rings. ChainWax seem much cleaner.

I know, this is fighting words.

Check the chain for slack. Always adjust from the loosest (most slack) part of the chain when you rotate it. Careful never to over tighten. If you have too much of a tight spot that you can't adjust to loose spot, the chain is done. If you run out of adjustments, the chain is done as well.

We can also get into fighting words about the best replacement chain & sprockets (I like EK chains and new sprockets every other replacement). The Suzuki chain was pretty much junk for me, it didnt last 7500 miles. We've seen stock chains go out at 5000 miles and some go for 15000. I've had EK chain go from 10,000 (shot) to 18,000 (with plenty left).

Maybe it's me, but chains can be a real crap shoot.

banditII · « **Reply #10 on:** September 07, 2005, 07:50:49 PM »

I use kerosene to clean the chain like the others have said. As far as what lube to use, I've ruled out "chain wax". Unless you clean the chain every time first, chain wax just puts another clear coat over the dirt. Honda lube actually decreases the chain and supposedly protects it too. I'm torn now between Honda Lube and a product called Ballistol ( which seems to clean and lube, leaves chain oily but not too sloppy ). If I could believe the Honda Lube actually "lubes" I'd go with it. Otherwise, I like Ballistol.

Warren

doublenaughtspy · « **Reply #11 on:** September 07, 2005, 09:01:50 PM »

Hey guys, I've been using the new DuPont product for about 4k now and have discovered that it doesn't like the rain...that is, if you park after gettin home in the rain you need to run the bike on the center stand to fling off the water and then lube up. Otherwise you will come out to rust spots the next day. It's only surface rust, but it is worrysome. Other than that the stuff works as advertised...no fling-off that I've noticed and the chain has stayed quiet. Oh yeah...take that can with you if you are going out for a trip over a couple of tankfulls. I had my local dealer (Canton, GA Yamasuzizaki) order it from Parts Unlimited. Less than 10 bucks, but I forget exactly how much. The initial stock is all gone now. I guess it caught on.

RIDE ON!

ray nielsen · « **Reply #12 on:** September 07, 2005, 10:10:01 PM »

A cleaning technique that seems to work well for me uses a Grunge Brush, available from many motorcycle shops. It's available alone or with a solvent container packaged with it.

It's adjustable for virtually all size chains and when dipped in kerosene it can be applied to the outside AND inside runs of the chain to do a thorough job of getting the crud off.

I blow the excess kerosene off with an air gun afterwards before lubing. I've just started ueing the Dupont Multiurpose Teflon and will see if I will continue irs use.

Previously I used a Scott Oiler, but it does fling off and deposit an oily film on the rear rin and side of the tire. If the Dupont stuff doesn't fling off it may be a long term solution to cruddy wheels.

Runerx · « **Reply #13 on:** September 08, 2005, 12:29:14 PM »

An open pizza box makes an excellent overspray guard to keep lube off the tire. I keep 1-2 around for just this purpose. Put the lid between the chain and tire to keep the tire clean, and the crap that falls off, falls into the bottom of the box.

DJ

Red01 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 08, 2005, 10:40:05 PM »

Quote from: "warren renshaw"

I'm torn now between Honda Lube and a product called Ballistol ( which seems to clean and lube, leaves chain oily but not too sloppy ). If I could believe the Honda Lube actually "lubes" I'd go with it. Otherwise, I like Ballistol.

In the Chain Lube Shootout in the September 2001 issue of "Motorcycle Consumer News" they tested 21 chain lubes/waxes & WD-40. The Honda stuff (in the red can, the blue can was not tested) made their recommended list.

Quote

1. PJ1 Chain Lube (black) (MCN Best Buy)
Total Score 25.0
Initial Rolling Resistance = 4.0
Post Rolling Resistance = 5.0
Sling Off = 3.0
Corrosion Resistance = 5.0
Grit Resistance = 3.0
Value = 5.0
Cost per ounce = $0.42
Observations: Dark blackish/purple slightly foamy spray. Dries to thick black liquid that feels very tacky. Best in group in corrosion reisitance and in reducing rolling resistance. A long-time leader in chain lube technology.

2. Kawasaki K-Kare Foaming (MCN Recommended)
Total Score 23.5
Initial Rolling Resistance = 5.0
Post Rolling Resistance = 5.0
Sling Off = 1.0
Corrosion Resistance = 3.5
Grit Resistance = 4.0
Value = 5.0
Cost per ounce = $0.36
Observations: A slightly foamy, amber medium thin liquid that dissapates moderately fast. When dry it remains a med. thin liquid with a slight tackiness to the touch. Least expensive of all bike-specific products. Excellent initial and post rolling resistance, but poor sling off characterisitcs.

3. Yamaha Performance (MCN Recommended)
Total Score 23.5
Initial Rolling Resistance = 4.0
Post Rolling Resistance = 3.0
Sling Off = 4.0
Corrosion Resistance = 5.0
Grit Resistance = 3.0
Value = 4.5
Cost per ounce = $0.53
Observations: Sprays a fine mist of yellowish-white slightly foamy liquid. Quickly dissapates into a med. thin, light viscosity liquid. Dries into a light amber solid gel with no tackiness to the touch but did produce a slippery feel. Excellent corrosion resistance and good sling off resistance.
NOTE: Yamaha makes at least two different cahin lubes, the other one they tested was crap

4. Pro Honda HP Lube (red can) (MCN Recommended)
Total Score 22.0
Initial Rolling Resistance = 3.5
Post Rolling Resistance = 2.5
Sling Off = 4.0
Corrosion Resistance = 5.0
Grit Resistance = 3.0
Value = 4.0
Cost per ounce = $0.53
Observations: A fine mist spray that was dark gray and was very thin in viscosity. The product dried to a soft blackish non-pourable grease with little to no tackiness. Superb rust protection, average or better in other respects.

5. PJ1 Chain Lube (blue) (MCN Recommended)
Total Score 22.0
Initial Rolling Resistance = 5.0
Post Rolling Resistance = 4.5
Sling Off = 2.0
Corrosion Resistance = 4.0
Grit Resistance = 2.0
Value = 4.5
Cost per ounce = $0.44
Observations: Fine pinpoint spray that is very thin in viscosity and blue in color. Dries to a tacky, thin gel. Very water resistant. Despite mfr claims, sling off is below average. Initial rolling resistance is excellent and maintains well during use, but the tacky gel also attracts and holds grit.

6. Torco Power Slide Titanium (MCN Recommended)
Total Score 21.5
Initial Rolling Resistance = 4.0
Post Rolling Resistance = 3.5
Sling Off = 4.0
Corrosion Resistance = 3.5
Grit Resistance = 3.0
Value = 3.5
Cost per ounce = $0.54
Observations: High preessure med spray of a white liquid. Dries into a soft, foam-like cream. Very light and slippery, yet little tackiness to the touch. Very water resistant. This is Torco's new (back in 2001 when this was written) product that replaces the Power Slide lube.

Both the PJ1 products & the Kawi stuff make mess with sling off. I've been wanting to try the Yamaha Performance stuff, but none of my local Yamaha dealers carry it, so I've been using the Honda red can stuff since I bought the B12.