Author Topic: More reponsible for pogo-ing thru a turn: forks or shock? (Read 3440 times)

curiousmike · « **on:** April 17, 2006, 08:31:59 PM »

It's been raining, a LOT in northern California... today was one of only a few dry days I've been able to ride the B12 into work.

It was also the first time I've seriously thrown it into a corner (ok, onto an on-ramp), and the pogo-ing effect I've felt before on slow stuff was amplified by 10. Like, I seriously have to address this.

It isn't obvious to me whether the front or the rear end is more responsible for the pogoing.

Current state of suspension: 45k, stock shock, for all i know stock fork oil (?!) and springs.

I figure $100 fork springs and $10 worth of fork oil will be enough for the front end for what I'm looking for.

The rear is where I'm a bit more perplexed; It seems a real aftermarket shock (Progressive) is the cheapest at $450. That's a lot of coin.
However, the idea of a GSXR1100/Hayabusa shock doesn't appeal to me because peeps say it raises the rear end. I don't want that.

I've mentioned the $40 B12 shock with 5k miles on it, and putting another $80-$200 of cleaning it up at a suspension shop.

I'm cheap, but I want a reasonable solution.

Ugh.

smooth operator · « **Reply #1 on:** April 17, 2006, 09:52:08 PM »

Hey Mike, Well 1st of all, your suspension is not up to task or set too soft. I don't remember what you have. 1200 or 600,1st gen. or 2nd. On the front end Progressive springs and oil (and you can adjust the spacer length,its just a pc. of pvc pipe). I went with the Race Tech gold valves and springs,aprox. $300. installing it myself.
On the shock,it depends on what you have. I just recently found out through here that the Busa shock works on a 1st gen B12. I have my Gsx-R shock on now from a 1100K. It does raise the rear 1 1/2", but I need that for ground clearence and to give my Knees a break.My Works Performance shock keeps the stock ride hiegth,and is awsome smooth.It is set up for aggresive riding , has another lighter spring,I can keep up with racers,(or my wife likes it best too.) I just get tired of changing them all the time.
If you have a 600, I sent my stock shock to another member for shipping,but there are mroe out there cheap.If you have a 1st gen. 1200, I may part with my WP(I need tires) But I would like $400,I have 5+ in it with shipping and the extra spring. Doesn't matter if you buy mine , but if you want a new one I'll give the thumbs up on WP.Also Pensky is top shelf along with the Fox double clicker and of course Ohlins.If you check on ebay,they show up once in awhile. I can give more info intrested. I didn't list it for sale because I don't care if I sell it. I might put it back on instead. 2nd gen.B12,sounds like the Busa is the best bang for the $.
Dan

curiousmike · « **Reply #2 on:** April 17, 2006, 10:03:09 PM »

I have a first gen B12; You're saying a Hayabusa shock will work on the 1st gen b12?

But it must raise the rear.

If you got rid of your WP, would you be going back to your stock shock?

chevsuz12 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 18, 2006, 12:51:08 AM »

Yes the busa shock works on 1st gen b12. I have one on mine and love it! However it is not a direct bolt on, some grinding is required, but can be installed in about 1.5 to 2 hours. It will raise the tail end considerably, but this can be corrected with longer dogbones, I made my own bones about 10mm longer than stock. There is a pretty good write-up on www.maximum-suzuki.com about this.

tacoman · « **Reply #4 on:** April 18, 2006, 03:03:40 PM »

Pogoing is usually a result of underdamping. The suspension is fighting itself because one end is stiffer than the other. My guess may be bad fork oil which doesn't flow well thru the valving. Result, stiff forks. Get some fresh fluid in there (along with the progressive springs if you have them), then try it out.

ray nielsen · « **Reply #5 on:** April 18, 2006, 07:31:31 PM »

I vote for the rear shock -- the leverage from the steering head back is much larger than from the steering head forward.

The rider's weight is also part of that situation -- all told better damping of the rear end should improve or elminate the pogo-ing.

smooth operator · « **Reply #6 on:** April 19, 2006, 06:34:10 AM »

No, if I got rid of my WP shock, I'd leave on my GSX-R shock. I gave away my stock shock to a fellow Bandito with a 600.

Red01 · « **Reply #7 on:** April 20, 2006, 10:55:00 PM »

Double check the FAQ shock thread, but IIRC, the GSXR750/1100 shock doesn't raise the rear of the 1G B12 - which is why it is unsuitable for the 2G B12 - unless you want to lower it.

smooth operator · « **Reply #8 on:** April 21, 2006, 06:53:49 AM »

Yes, it raises the back 1 1/2". I use a pc. of 2x6 under my side stand to straighten my bike a bit while parked. Not sure about the 750,but I think they are the same. Mine is from a 1100K. I had a pair of bones made 4mm over,but when you bring the back down I had too much sag. I put the stock ones back on and I can set my sag between 22-24mm.And the extra raise keeps from grinding the bottom of my pegs. Wich are also raised up 1" and back 1".

pmackie · « **Reply #9 on:** April 27, 2006, 02:07:42 AM »

Try these items first, and then decide how much you want to spend on the rear shock.

1. Progressive or Race Tech springs along with fresh fork oil (I went with Progressive springs and 20% SAE 20 + 80% SAE 10). Made a noticeable difference on my 2G B6

2. Crank up the preload on your stock shock and increase the rebound damping a click or two.

This should eliminate the pogo effect. Then decide if you want to make it better with a shock upgrade.

IcyChaos · « **Reply #10 on:** April 27, 2006, 06:04:33 AM »

Quote from: "smooth operator"

Hey Mike, Well 1st of all, your suspension is not up to task or set too soft. I don't remember what you have. 1200 or 600,1st gen. or 2nd. On the front end Progressive springs and oil (and you can adjust the spacer length,its just a pc. of pvc pipe). I went with the Race Tech gold valves and springs,aprox. $300. installing it myself.
On the shock,it depends on what you have. I just recently found out through here that the Busa shock works on a 1st gen B12. I have my Gsx-R shock on now from a 1100K. It does raise the rear 1 1/2", but I need that for ground clearence and to give my Knees a break.My Works Performance shock keeps the stock ride hiegth,and is awsome smooth.It is set up for aggresive riding , has another lighter spring,I can keep up with racers,(or my wife likes it best too.) I just get tired of changing them all the time.
If you have a 600, I sent my stock shock to another member for shipping,but there are mroe out there cheap.If you have a 1st gen. 1200, I may part with my WP(I need tires) But I would like $400,I have 5+ in it with shipping and the extra spring. Doesn't matter if you buy mine , but if you want a new one I'll give the thumbs up on WP.Also Pensky is top shelf along with the Fox double clicker and of course Ohlins.If you check on ebay,they show up once in awhile. I can give more info intrested. I didn't list it for sale because I don't care if I sell it. I might put it back on instead. 2nd gen.B12,sounds like the Busa is the best bang for the $.
Dan

Do you have a 1G or 2G bike smooth operator?? reason Im wondering is what do the gold valves do? I have a 200 Bandit 1200S, I believe 1st Gen. These don't have cartrige forks do they??

smooth operator · « **Reply #11 on:** April 27, 2006, 07:29:46 AM »

I have the 1st gen(98). I believe the 2nd came with improved front springs. The RT gold valves gives better oil flow and you can adjust your stacking order for dampening. No they are not cartrige. But RT makes kits for all types. I did mine during a winter (1st mod to the bike) so I didn't have back to back comparos. But I did eliminate the front dive (you don't just want it stiff,you must be able to absorb bumps smoothly and keep good traction). They give you a chart with your type of riding and weight to set up your stacking order. Mine feels good the 1st time and its too much a pain to experiment for me. (it feels good where its at)The wt.and amount of oil makes a difference and the spacer for the preload with the RT springs all make a difference. If you don't mind experimenting you can play around to get want you want.