Author Topic: wheel washing (Read 5989 times)

FreediverGa · « **on:** March 22, 2005, 12:53:16 PM »

Is there a possiblity in getting water into the rear barrings-sp. if I take the rear wheel off to wash it, to get the horrible sling off I suffered from experimenting with PJ-1?

ray nielsen · « **Reply #1 on:** March 22, 2005, 02:09:32 PM »

With the axle removed it's possible to get water into the cavity and into the bearings. I think the Bandit's wheel bearings are sealed only on the outside so any water reaching the inside could contaminate the bearing surfaces. Maybe if you plugged the axle holes well it would be safe.

I've used WD-40 as a chain lube solvent with pretty good success in the past. Right now I use a Scott Oiler which drips a fluid pretty much like synthetic manual transmission (75W-90 weight) onto the chain at about a drop/minute.

I've been using Scott Oilers on my last three bikes, a Nighthawk 750, a Kawasaki W650 and the Bandit 1200. I"ve had very good chain and sprocket life -- usually about 40K miles per set., although the Bandit hasn't gone that rar yet -- only 11,500 miles with two adjustments so far -- one flat (1/6 of a turn) each time.

B12Teuton · « **Reply #2 on:** March 22, 2005, 03:17:21 PM »

Leave the wheel on. Spin it and spray WD-40 onto the wheel. Then whipe it clean with a rag. Try not to spray the brake rotor.
Then just give it a good wash.

PJ-1 and others can make a mess if you don't follow these few steps:

~always apply to a clean chain that is warm!

~always allow the bike to sit and cool off completely so the chain lube/wax can "set up"

~Never apply too much. I've seen people cake so much lube onto their chain

It does not take 1/4 of the can to lube it right.

~Make sure you get most of the lube on the inner part of the chain. Centrifical force will carry it out. Don't just sit behind the bike and spray lube on the outside of the chain as it goes round the sprocket. Yes, a little bit is good but it really doesn't need much there.

Clean the chain and wheel with WD-40, wash the bike, dry it off, go ride about 4-5 miles to dry it completely and warm the chain, put it up on the centerstand and lube the chain, park it overnight.

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** March 22, 2005, 06:46:42 PM »

If WD40 has a hard time cutting the PJ1 goo, try kerosene.

victor55 · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2005, 09:43:51 PM »

Hi Ray,

I'm really thinking hard about a Scottoiler to go with my new chain and sprocket set (coming up soon), but I have a question;

If the Scottoiler drops its load onto the outer link plates, how does it get across to the inner link plates?

Red01 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 22, 2005, 09:47:52 PM »

Get the double tipped nozzle!

ray nielsen · « **Reply #6 on:** March 22, 2005, 10:58:46 PM »

I tried the double tipped applictor and it clogged soon after installation. The single tube dripping oil on the outiside link plate joing seems to work fine. Scott Oiler says that capillary action will distribute the oil over the entire chain and that sure appears to be true. Both sets of O or X Rings seem to be oily as does the outside of the chain and the rollers too.

I do find it necessary to adjust the flow rate according to temperature. The original Scott supplied oil seems to be very similar in viscosithy to Mobil 1 Manual Transmission Lube in a 75W-90 weight. At 10 degrees below zero they both still are fairly fluid in the bottle and at summer temperatures they seem about the same too. Color is different, but that appears to be the only difference.

I don't have to re-adjust the oiler setting when using either lubricant, and the Mobil 1 stuff if cheaper than the Scott Oiler, plus I can get it at most auto supply outlets.

Aerostich Warehouse in Duluth, MN is the cheapest place to order the Scott Oiler -- check <www.aerostich.com> -- I think it's $127 plus S & H, which is about $20 cheaper than ordering it from Action Station <www.actionstation.com> or <www.actionstations.com> I'm not sure if it's singular or plural.

FreediverGa · « **Reply #7 on:** March 23, 2005, 01:51:53 AM »

Quote from: "B12Teuton"

Leave the wheel on. Spin it and spray WD-40 onto the wheel. Then whipe it clean with a rag. Try not to spray the brake rotor.
Then just give it a good wash.

PJ-1 and others can make a mess if you don't follow these few steps:

~always apply to a clean chain that is warm!

~always allow the bike to sit and cool off completely so the chain lube/wax can "set up"

~Never apply too much. I've seen people cake so much lube onto their chain
It does not take 1/4 of the can to lube it right.

~Make sure you get most of the lube on the inner part of the chain. Centrifical force will carry it out. Don't just sit behind the bike and spray lube on the outside of the chain as it goes round the sprocket. Yes, a little bit is good but it really doesn't need much there.

Clean the chain and wheel with WD-40, wash the bike, dry it off, go ride about 4-5 miles to dry it completely and warm the chain, put it up on the centerstand and lube the chain, park it overnight.

I do pretty much what you said Manny but with kerosene

I picked up the PJ-1 at the shop and applied to my chain during a lunch stop when in to get some chow and came out 30 minutes later to take off.
When I got home it was all big mess! I'll figure it out, Thanks

PitterB4 · « **Reply #8 on:** March 23, 2005, 06:18:31 AM »

Freediver - There's a big difference between parking it overnight and parking it over lunch. I think you need to let it set-up longer.

FreediverGa · « **Reply #9 on:** March 23, 2005, 11:38:20 AM »

ok Chief I'll give them another try then! thanks!

B12MoJo · « **Reply #10 on:** March 27, 2005, 05:35:31 PM »

Use some brake and parts cleaner. Cheaper than WD40 and I guarantee it'll come off without a fuss.

FreediverGa · « **Reply #11 on:** March 27, 2005, 06:28:45 PM »

actually I used simple green and it work really well actually. All that crud came off first wipe better than wd40 or anything else!