Author Topic: cdi repair (Read 6976 times)

Bartjan · « **on:** February 12, 2007, 04:06:34 PM »

i think my cdi is broken

about 2 weeks ago i changed my coils for bandit 600 coils, so it would stop having problems with bad weather.
however after about 100-300km's while driving it suddenly had less power, like it was running on 3 and a half cilinder, with a top speed of 130km/h (instead of about 165km/h)
i had an appointment which i couldnt miss so i kept driving

i changed my left coil (cilinder 1 and 4) back to the original coil and after that it still didnt have full power between 7 and 11k revs, but beyond 11k revs it ran fine and top speed was back to about 165km/h

last weekend i checked the spark plugs (and made the clearances like they should (0,6-0,7mm)) measured all the coils and all (8) plug caps i have.
the bandit 600 coils have 2,8ohm primary resistance and the original have 3,2ohm (both within spec, which is 2,5-3,8ohm), secondary was also fine. from all the plug caps i mounted the lowest resistance ones, which had about 11k ohm (one was 15k ohm). so secondary was also between spec (30-50k ohm)
i checked the wires from cdi to the coils and they were also fine and have good connection.

after that it still ran poorly with bandit 600 coils, so mounted the 400 coils again and today i had to drive another 150km home, with an bike that feels like it doesnt have any power between 8k and 10k revs. above 11k revs its alot better.

so my (and my helping hand, who had been car mechanic for over 40 years) best guess is that because the bandit 600 coils have lower resistance the current was about 1 ampere higher (calculated) and even as it was within spec the cdi couldnt handle it and stopped working correctly.

so now im gonna open my dignital igniter (32900-10D00)

Bartjan · « **Reply #1 on:** February 12, 2007, 04:29:24 PM »

this is the cdi (upside down), opened with my dremel

land-warrior.rus · « **Reply #2 on:** February 12, 2007, 05:08:30 PM »

Try changing 2 blue and 2 black capacitors, and there is a smaller one next to the main chip, change that one to and see how you get on.
I changed all of them a while back(there was nothing wrong with mine in the firts place except that some time it didnt crank and only after pushing the start button for a while it would sudenly start cranking and every thing is ok) but since changing the capacitors that problem is gone and the bike always starts from the first crank now and runs fantasticly.
Hope that helps.Good luck.
By the way your CDI is exactly same model as mine...
Cheers

Bartjan · « **Reply #3 on:** February 12, 2007, 06:14:39 PM »

after 1,5 hours of trying to remove it from the black plastic and 30 minutes of trying to remove the glue

i was indeed planning on changing those 4 capacitators and the small one just beneath the chip and the 2 transistors (maybe for 2 transistors with the ability for a bit more power, so they wont die as easily)

land-warrior.rus · « **Reply #4 on:** February 12, 2007, 07:03:01 PM »

Nice one.Hope that'll solve you problem
Good luck

Bartjan · « **Reply #5 on:** February 14, 2007, 01:54:54 PM »

well the cdi is at the elektronics-repair shop, it should be ready tomorrow lets hope it works.....

Bartjan · « **Reply #6 on:** February 18, 2007, 01:46:34 PM »

new capacitators

wouldnt start at all when i put it back at the B4 :(
so after the accu was empty i hooked some startcables up and tried some more with the help of some brakecleaner (very flammable; spray some on the airfilter when it doesnt start and it will start, but is not good for the head gasket!!)
with the help of the brakecleaner it did start, but didnt run good. so i thought lets check the carbs, but when i removed the tank i saw the vacuumcable was loose, so i reattached it and remounted the tank and the B4 started without any hassle again.

it still didnt help the original problem though

so i took the carbs off for a good clean (which was my 1st plan to do, but i figured it was an electrical problem when i 1st tried the orignal coil and it ran better). soon i found the problem...

the needle of carb 3 had lost its clip and because of that it didnt rise like it should when the throttle is opened
good news is it now runs perfectly again and i know the cdi is completely renewed (although unnessecary)

Kenyan01 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 18, 2007, 02:21:57 PM »

Do you mean your CDI was fine all along? Or am I getting you wrong?
Cheers,
Patrick.

Bartjan · « **Reply #8 on:** February 18, 2007, 03:26:27 PM »

thats what i mean yeah

erik · « **Reply #9 on:** February 18, 2007, 05:14:14 PM »

On my previous bike (yamaha fzx250) I spent ages trying to figure out why it wasn't running right. I must've checked quite a few things before resorting to opening the carbs. Turned out it was just water in the fuel and float bowls.

It's interesting to know you can pull a CDI apart and repair it like that.

Glad your bike's going well now

Bartjan · « **Reply #10 on:** February 19, 2007, 07:52:31 AM »

yeah opening the carbs was supposed to be the first i tried, but cos it worked better with the original cdi and when i checked the sparkplugs the color were all about the same, so i figured it was the electrics