"Finally"I agree! NOT another OIL POST!Works 4 me.

[Daytona]

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Consumables.html

[Red01]

10w-40 oils should not be used in a motorcycle that runs the engine oil through the transmission.

I guess my owners manual is full of fecal matter then.  

[txbanditrydr]

10w-40 oils should not be used in a motorcycle that runs the engine oil through the transmission.

I guess my owners manual is full of fecal matter then.  

That's why I use 15w-40....  

[Daytona]

10w-40 oils should not be used in a motorcycle that runs the engine oil through the transmission.

I guess my owners manual is full of fecal matter then.  

This is Good for the 17 days that you aren't in the 50's though! Yep U know the days its warm but rainin!!!    

[pmackie]

As an "OIL" guy, I generally agree with the recommendations. But being a detail guy, there are some issues.

HD Diesel engine oils DO have more shear resistant VI improvers and work fine in the wet clutch/transmission of our combined sump engines. I use Canadian spec XD-3 0W-40 in my bike (similar to the Shell Rotella 0W-40).


The comment about NOT using 10W-40 comes from the issue of shearing the VI improver, which will cause the 10W-40 to become a 10W-30 in service. Which means that it DOES wear out a little sooner. But, there is NO problem using this product (as the manual recommends), you just may need to change it a little sooner.

ALL oils will have some amount of shear (permanent viscosity loss) in service, Automotive or Commercial, Mineral or Synthetic. It just depends on how soon.

However, my general recomendations mirror those of this article:
1st choice: synthetic HD Diesel engine oils (typically 0W-40's and 5W-40's)
2nd choice: conventional HD Diesel engine oils (typically 15W-40)
3rd choice: Full synthetic auto oils, using PAO technology. (its getting harder for ANY of us to actually find out WHAT base oil is being used).
Last choice: Conventional auto oils (10W-30 & 10W-40).

Don't want to start "another" oil debate however....

Remember, the most important thing is to use a decent quality oil and change it regularly.

[Daytona]

As an "OIL" guy, I generally agree with the recommendations. But being a detail guy, there are some issues. Remember, the most important thing is to use a decent quality oil and change it regularly.

You are spot on IMO! In my Busa the Rotella T syn makes such a diff after the 800 mile mark where the Dino 15W40 T would let the trans shift a bit stiff. The temp gage shows cooler and the MPG went up almost 2 miles per gallon! Ok maybe just me. @ 5 bucks more a gal @ wally's store its well worth it! and its got to work for me to buy it.  PS I tried mobil 1 in my B12 1G and almost had a H attack when the clutch started slipping on some heavy roll-on's. Took it out and never had another prob. I'm hopin for 3k on this oil Vs every 12 to 15 C's on the dino. From here to TWO's is 600+ one way + a few trips to the Gap and I'm needin a R&R for the trip back! I'm sold on it so far.     Ok another pic I know but she is ALL that in my book!

[speedytriple]

dont know i been running vr-1 racing oil in mine and it has given me no problems. last time i ran the full syntec and it worked good also. with my bike have some miles on it i find the heavier weight oils do just fine.

[ZenMan]

1st choice: synthetic HD Diesel engine oils (typically 0W-40's and 5W-40's)

Hey, Pmackie!

What are your thoughts about the new water-cooled 1250 engine?

I did my first oil change using regular Suzuki 10-40w, and I plan on switching to full synthetic after 3,000 miles or so. I'm thinking this motor runs a bit cooler on average than the SACS... do you think the HD Diesel 5-40w full synthetic is my best choice?

If so, what's your favorite brand? $$$ is not a factor, I want the best there is for my baby.    

[Daytona]

1st choice: synthetic HD Diesel engine oils (typically 0W-40's and 5W-40's)

Hey, Pmackie!

What are your thoughts about the new water-cooled 1250 engine?

I did my first oil change using regular Suzuki 10-40w, and I plan on switching to full synthetic after 3,000 miles or so. I'm thinking this motor runs a bit cooler on average than the SACS... do you think the HD Diesel 5-40w full synthetic is my best choice?

If so, what's your favorite brand? $$$ is not a factor, I want the best there is for my baby.    

Not Pmackie but! I have 40yrs in the fleet biz! Best Goo for the inside of anything that needs a coat of lube on it is Amsoil! Next is Mobil1. Remember the wear accurs on start up and then break down from heat. Thicker oil doesn't stay thicker hot, you want it thin to get on the way on start up, then get thicker! The 1g has a weak clutch! Is the new H2O cooled model the same?

[pmackie]

What are your thoughts about the new water-cooled 1250 engine?
do you think the HD Diesel 5-40w full synthetic is my best choice?

Yup, same recommendation on the WC 1250

If so, what's your favorite brand? $$$ is not a factor

My favourites are
1. Canadian spec Esso XD-3 Extra 0W-40
2. Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
(but then I sell both of these )

Any synthetic or synthetic blend 0W-40 or 5W-40 will be good in this application. Find one that's available close to you and stick with it.

[ZenMan]

Not Pmackie but! I have 40yrs in the fleet biz! Best Goo for the inside of anything that needs a coat of lube on it is Amsoil! Next is Mobil1. Remember the wear accurs on start up and then break down from heat. Thicker oil doesn't stay thicker hot, you want it thin to get on the way on start up, then get thicker!

Yep, I agree, Daytona, 30 years A.S.E. certified myself. You are describing basic engine oil/wear theory. Amsoil is a great product and I've seen a lot of truck and car engines with 300,000 miles that look like new inside, using Amsoil. But motorcycles, as you know, have wet clutches and share the oil with the transmission.  That's why I was asking Pmackie, he's a professionally educated oil/lube expert, whereas I'm just a greasy wrench-turner (though a pretty good one, if I may say so myself!   ).

But I do appreciate your input and opinion...  

The 1g has a weak clutch! Is the new H2O cooled model the same?

Wasn't it you that told me that the B1250 tranny is based on the Busa tranny? It's a very strong clutch, has to be with all that torque, and has the hydraulically actuated master/slave cylinder set-up. It would be pretty dang hard to disengage with a cable lever. But the type of oil has a lot to do with the smoothness of engagement, ease of shifting, and gear/bearing wear also, all factors to consider.. but you already know that.  

[ZenMan]

What are your thoughts about the new water-cooled 1250 engine?
do you think the HD Diesel 5-40w full synthetic is my best choice?

Yup, same recommendation on the WC 1250

If so, what's your favorite brand? $$$ is not a factor

My favourites are
1. Canadian spec Esso XD-3 Extra 0W-40
2. Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40
(but then I sell both of these )

Any synthetic or synthetic blend 0W-40 or 5W-40 will be good in this application. Find one that's available close to you and stick with it.

Thanks, P... it's great to have a pro oil/lube guy here on the board that doesn't mind having their brains picked over occasionally. You're a valuable resource.  

I'll look for the Delvac... haven't seen Esso products around here for years. If I can't find either I guess it'll be the Rotella you and others have mentioned.

[B6mick]

For the guys in Oz keep your eyes out for Oleon products, They are one of our customers, and this year have ventured out into the Oz superbike scene, I've been using their products in the work vans, the private vans, and both bikes for a couple of years now. Very happy

http://www.oleonoils.com/