Author Topic: Clutch Service (Read 16498 times)

PitterB4 · « **on:** March 16, 2005, 08:21:10 AM »

Here's a resurected post from the pre-crash new board It is pasted here, one original page per post.

Rbandit
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Joined: 08 Oct 2004
Posts: 37
Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 5:35 am Post subject: Changing Clutch Plates anyone

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I am having difficulty in shifting the gear to neutral and down shifting when the bike heat up during city rides.

But the gear shifting is smooth once the bike cools down when riding on the highways.

I have change new oil and adjusting the cltuch free play and it doesn;t help.

I suspect its due to the worn clutch plate, and I'm thinking if its possible to replace them on my own because I dont have special tool to hold the clutch hub sleeve from turing to remove the nut locking the pressure plate in place.

Will putting the bike on main stand and using a block of wood jam under the rear wheel do?? Please advice?

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 2:16 pm Post subject:

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Dont you just take out the four or six bolts that hold the springs down off and there is your plates-metals and fibers? for the big nut electric or air impact works great. dont forget to soak the fibers in oil for 1/2 hour to 15 minutes till you see all bubbles gone. metals have a smooth rounded side and a machined flat side dosnt matter wich way they go in as long as they are in all smooth or flat.
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

Rbandit
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Joined: 08 Oct 2004
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Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 3:38 pm Post subject:

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gsxr400 racer wrote:
Dont you just take out the four or six bolts that hold the springs down off and there is your plates-metals and fibers? for the big nut electric or air impact works great.

Problem is I dun have air/electric impact driver, I only have a full set of 1/2" drive ratchet set.

For the 4 or 6 bolts that hold the springs, do I need a special tool to hold the clutch hub from spinning? Because the manual says used suzuki special tool to hold the clutch hub sleeve from spining.

I'm thinking if I engage in gear , put the bike on main stand and choke the rear wheel will I be able to stop te clutch hub sleeve from turning?

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 3:53 pm Post subject:

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They are not that tight bro! i use a t handle 10mm never put any in gear and they all come off with a bit of a bump. nuge on the t handle. and they go on alittle snug same as they come of

good luck
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

Rbandit
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Joined: 08 Oct 2004
Posts: 37
Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 9:37 pm Post subject:

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ok thanks, will I need to drain the oil first if I park my bike on the side stand?

And the manual says inspect the clutch release bearing because smooth engage and disengagement of the clutch depends on this. I check the drawing and I couldn;t find the description of this bearing, is it refering to the thrust bearing or another bearing behind the clutch sleeve hub?

Last edited by Rbandit on Sun Feb 13, 2005 10:01 pm; edited 1 time in total

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Sun Feb 13, 2005 9:41 pm Post subject:

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Nut- shouldnt have to. Yes -drain oil
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

Rbandit
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Joined: 08 Oct 2004
Posts: 37
Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Mon Feb 14, 2005 6:40 am Post subject:

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One more question, do I need to remove the generator rotor in order to remove the clutch pressure plate? because from the service manual it was removed.

I will be changing the clutch plates, clutch springs and clutch release bearing (thrust bearing if I'm not wrong)

duane
New member!

Joined: 24 Dec 2004
Posts: 1
Location: Portland, OR
Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 3:56 am Post subject:

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Quote:
dont forget to soak the fibers in oil for 1/2 hour to 15 minutes till you see all bubbles gone.

I haven't heard of this before. I just ordered new plates and springs for my B4 so I'll be tackling the clutch soon. Why do you soak them? (This is in oil I assume.)

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 4:31 am Post subject:

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cuase its a wet clutch and only half of it sits in oil so it would take forever to soak up the oil in the motor as it was in different spots and would more than likely burn right up .
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

Rbandit
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Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 10:46 am Post subject:

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I opend up my clutch cover today and remove the clutch plate, here is a picture of all the parts which I took off.

[/b]

PitterB4 · « **Reply #1 on:** March 16, 2005, 08:29:11 AM »

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:25 pm Post subject:

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excellent, Now are you replacing that little bearing? they usually dont go bad. what all did you get just fibers or springs,metals,fibers? let me know and i ll tell ya some more tricks. where any of your metals burnt?

jay
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:32 pm Post subject:

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If you guys are using aftermarket springs only use 3 of them and 2 stock ones . all heavy duty springs in is verey hard to launch bike. and verey hard on forarm. if your reusuing your metals or have new ones . you need to scuff them up with some sand paper like some wet/dry paper deglaze them like you would your brake rotors before you put new pads in. to etch my plates i use a air die grinder with a roloc disc attached (like scotch brite pad) and jusat ruff them up a bit

good luck
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

Rbandit
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Joined: 08 Oct 2004
Posts: 37
Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:37 pm Post subject:

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gsxr400 racer wrote:
excellent, Now are you replacing that little bearing? they usually dont go bad. what all did you get just fibers or springs,metals,fibers? let me know and i ll tell ya some more tricks. where any of your metals burnt?

jay

The bearings is good I tested it by turning the rollers and they are smooth.

All of the springs are of the same length but I will use a vernier to check if they are still servicable.

The fibre plates looks very thin and black and I couldn't smell any burnt smell on them, maybe the engine oil smell cover it up.

I found the last metal plate( the inner most one) has 2 burnt mark and one circular layer of black deposit(suspect its the fibre mat'l) on it which is easily wipe off. Also the last metal plate has a circular groove machine on one of the surface which the rest doesn't have, is that normal? I am going to check for warp using a flat granite stone and feeler gauge at my work place to see if its still serviceable.

The clutch sleeve hub looks normal to me, couldnt feel any burs, but I will make a thorough check to make sure there are no indentions.

The gasket on the clutch cover is in good shape, I use a soft mallet to tap gently ard to loosen the cover, so its reuseable.

I have not get any parts yet, as I want to check if the steel plates are still serviceable.

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 1:51 pm Post subject:

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Im priity sure with out digging for my manual that the groove shoudnt be there. if it isnt to bad switch it with a dif plate when you put it back together the thrust springs in the back of the the basket probably did that they should face away from each other 2 large verey thin angled washer like things. are they there?
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

Rbandit
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Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 11:30 am Post subject:

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Here is the astonishing result I got today,

Clutch spring length (service limit 31mm)

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32.17mm

32.11mm

32.12mm

32.16mm

32.14mm

Analysis: All in good shape and reuseable.

Cluch plate warp (service limit 0.004")

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5 out of 7 metal plate fail the test when place on a flat granite stone and check with a 0.004" feeler gauge.

Analysis: Must replace.

Drive plate thickness (service limit 2.6mm)

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2.96 - 3.00mm

2.94 - 2.97mm

2.97 - 3.04mm

2.95 - 2.97mm

2.95 - 2.97mm

2.95 - 2.98mm

2.93 - 2.94mm

2.96 - 3.02mm

Drive plate claw width (service limit 11mm)

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All of them above 11mm between 11.8-12mm

Standard drive plate thickness or the fibre plate is 2.90 - 3.10mm and the claw width is 11.8-12mm which means my fibre plates are as good as new.

Analysis: Reuseable but may consider changing them together with the metal plates.

Now I am left with the clutch sleeve hub to check.

PitterB4
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Posts: 481
Location: Oxford, PA, USA
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 12:40 pm Post subject:

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Wow - cool info!!! Thanks! k:

Just out of curiosity - how many miles on your bike?
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Rob
'93 Bandit 400
A red-stater in a blue state

Rbandit
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Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 2:21 pm Post subject:

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PitterB4 wrote:
Wow - cool info!!! Thanks! k:

Just out of curiosity - how many miles on your bike?

93400++km.

PitterB4
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 2:53 pm Post subject:

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Sorry - stupid American thinking the whole world revolves around us and uses miles! :moon:

That's over 57,000 miles! Wow!
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Rob
'93 Bandit 400
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Red01
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 9:06 pm Post subject:

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Actually, it's over 58,000 miles.

93,400 km = 58,036.07 miles
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PitterB4
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 9:09 pm Post subject:

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58,036 is more than 57,000, right??? :moon:
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Rob
'93 Bandit 400

PitterB4 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 16, 2005, 08:33:27 AM »

Red01
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Posted: Fri Feb 18, 2005 9:30 pm Post subject:

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Of course

Just figured >1000 miles was too big an error to let slide.

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1974 Yamaha TY250

Rbandit
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Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 5:07 pm Post subject:

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Thought I might post this up so that others can refer to it when changing clutch plates for the Bandit 400. The pictures are taken from the same german website where the CDI repair is posted.

gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 11:35 pm Post subject:

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No one use the BLUE JUNK IT SQIUSHES OUT AND FALLS INTo your motor and clogs up your oil pick up screen. Dont skimp on the cheap parts bro.

10-15 dollars for the gasket
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

PeteSC
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Location: SC,USA
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 2:57 am Post subject:

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Dude, the pictures are from a German website, and not that of Rbandit!

That's probably fine quality, German Engineered BLUE STUFF, and not the cheap stuff we get! :ban:

How much does a REAL gasket cos, anyway?

Sure don't want no BLUE STUFF falling into my money....... :moon:
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gsxr400 racer
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Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 4:25 am Post subject:

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sorry big chief.Fix hur
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1988 gsxr 400 gk73a 2002 gsxr 750 wheels/forks/swingarm ,traxxion dynamics front end /ebc prolite rotors,penske bringing up the rear,dunlop slicks 120/180 mikuni cr round slide carbs,63 hp ( stock motor from b4).GSXR6002003

Rbandit
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Joined: 08 Oct 2004
Posts: 37
Location: Singapore - Fine City
Posted: Tue Feb 22, 2005 6:16 pm Post subject:

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Today I got my clutch installed, before that I check the new metal plates, 2 of them are warp, WTF??? So I took 2 of the old metal plates that are still ok. While tightening the the pressure plate one of the bolt broke off, and I am using a torque wrench. Luckily I am able to remove the broken bolt by pliers and there is no damage on the thread on the clutch sleeve hub, really gave me a scare.

I manage to find new bolts and washer from a shop that sells screws and replace all 5 with new bolts and washers (slightly thinner than orig, the old washer are stuck with the screw) and tight them down with 8mm spanner instead of the torque wrench. Install the cover, I reuse the old gasket with high temp RTV sealant at the sides of the clutch cover, change oil filter and top up with fresh oil. I adjusted the clutch free play and fire up the bike. Ride ard, gear shifting improves, will see how it performed when bike heats up.

Just now at work find some oil at the base of the clutch cover, I wipe off and let the bike idle for 5mins, din see any more oil, maybe it was the cluch plate which I soak in engine oil over night that drips down there during installation. Hopefully there is no leak. End of report.