Bandit 400 Fuel Petcock Alternative

[SoEazy]

Hello Gents. I have an ever growing list of parts needed to get my 400 going, and one of them is the fuel petcock. It appears the vacuum doesn't work correctly as the fuel flows through even when disconnected but not enough fuel to keep running. So, I stumbled on this petcock.thttp://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/suzuki/SP-44300-10D01.html

It says it fits 91-94 GSF400P's but it doesn't has a vacuum line to attach. So, I'm wondering if this will fit in place of my stock unit on my 91 Bandit 400. The price is about half the stock one and seems more durable since the diaphragm in the stock unit is non-rebuildable.

Anyone have any thoughts on this before I place an order?

[Bennyj]

I e mailed pingle to get a part number for a vacuum operated petcock from them, haven't heard from them yet but I can let yopu know how I go if you want

[El Gringo]

I'm not sure if Pingel do vacuum taps, they tend to be just on/off/res.

I have one on my GSXR1100 and it flows a much bigger amount of fuel than stock

You would need to make sure to remember to turn it off after every ride or it may flood your carbs (presuming the floats are as sensitive as most) and also to blank off the vacuum hose from the engine.

[Bennyj]

According to their website they do vacuum operated valves, at present I have a non operated valve, when I bought the bike the vacuum line was open but I've since plugged it. Haven't heard from pingel, it's been a few days and I haven't had a reply, might have to send them another e mail.

[SoEazy]

I'm wondering if I can't plug the vacuum line and sort of rig the malfunctioning stock one on my Bandit. Gas seems to flow through even when the vacuum line is disconnected. I'm just not sure if it's enough to keep the carbs supplied.  I'm wondering if there is way to permanently open the diaphragm and use the petcock valve to manually control fuel. Any thoughts?

[SoEazy]

I called Pingel today. According to them they do have a vacuum operated petcock but do not have an adapter specifically for the Bandit 400. The Rep I talked to said I would need to measure the distance between bolt holes (I assume center point to center point) and also note the direction the valve needs to face and they should have an adapter and valve that will work. I'll post the part number if I order it. I'm still a bit unsure about the price...

[Bennyj]

  Thanks that'd be great, as I'm in Australia I cant really call so I've been E mailing but haven't had a response, let us know how you go! My orientation is on the left side of the tank facing inwards, not sure of the bolt hole centres, but I could pretty easily make an adaptor plate at work if need be, I just need to work out the correct valve.

[TJS]

This is what I found and copied:

"Just did the Pingel and installed it. Piece of cake.

Besides the obvious clearancing of the fuel inlet, installation was a snap. No pictures as of yet as the tank is in the basement and the bike is outside under a cover for the winter but really no real rocket science involved.

If you plan on the Pingel route, I can advise you to use a Dremel tool and a carbide bit and use a shop-vac near the tool to catch the cast-off material. This will get 99% of the stuff flying off from settling inside of the tank.

Also, test fit the valve to the adapter plate beforehand to make sure the valve is clocked correctly. If not, when you install the plate onto the tank and the valve onto the plate, it can face the wrong direction. Since it is a pipe-thread fitting, it will tighten and not rotate further. The good folks at Pingel include a small packet of hylomar to seal everything together. You'll also need some teflon tape for the valve threads.

You can also pre-assemble everything but make sure you have a ball-ended 5mm to tighten the fittings down onto the tank.

Here's what you would need to order from Pingel if you went the same route as I:

-6210 Valve
-1602c Adapter plate

If you choose to have reserve: 6211"

[Bennyj]

awesome thanks TJS

[SoEazy]

Hey guys. Just a quick update, I got my Pingel fuel valve and adapter. Let me start off by saying the cost is a bit more than the stock unit, costing $125 shipped, which made me hesitate a little. I ending up buying the unit without reserve. The reserve cost around $25 more. My initial thought after opening the unit was WOW! This thing is really like a piece of jewelry for your bike. I got the aluminum finish but they also offered chrome. It's a shame it tucks away beneath your tank where it's hard to see.

The installation was fairly painless. The only real work involved is grinding away some of the metal from the tank for the filter screen to fit inside. The Pingel valve flows more fuel (or passes more gas as they like to say) so the opening diameter needs to be larger. I used a carbide bit on a dremel tool and it worked perfectly. So far the only hiccup is with clearance of the on/off lever. I've had to jack the back end of the tank up an inch or so for it to clear. Also, the vacuum line needs to be plugged, as it is no longer needed. I just found a snug fitting screw and filled the threads with gasket sealer.

As for the results, the bike now RUNS! This is huge. It's been over four months in the making. If your on the fence abound spending the extra cash, do yourself a favor and get the Pingel. The quality is fantastic and function is perfect. Now I'm going to test ride 'er tonight. Whoop! Whoop!

BTW, I'm thinking of putting together a thread of everything that was required (both items, where they were purchased and installation) to get this thing running, as it needed everything from full carb rebuild, CDI repair and fuel valve if anyone would be interested.

Here's a pic of the valve and a quick vid of the bike running.

http://youtu.be/zfSESKWaIO8

[El Gringo]

Result

I would be interested in your proposed thread 

[TJS]

What were Pingel part numbers?...and always post pics and vids to share!

[SoEazy]

It appears I celebrated too early...  I went to test-ride the bike last night, hit the starter and all I heard was a slight turn of the starter, then nothing. I had my helmet on and everything. Boo.

I've removed the clutch switch and sidestand switch, so I know those aren't the culprit. I've topped off the battery charge, so that's not it. Also, I've tried the old screwdriver technique on the solenoid and got no results. Lastly, I ran a cable directly from the pos terminal on the battery directly to the starter. All I get is a slight attempt at the motor turning.

Before I got the bike, the previous mechanic had taped the clutch pulled to the handlebar, so I imagine this starter has been given quite a workout... I've given it a serious workout just by myself. Also, it would usually take a few pushes of the starter button before it would turn consistently.

So anyone have a working starter they want to sell? Is there a starter from another model that will fit this bike? Is there something I might be overlooking? Any and all ideas are welcome. Thanks gents.
   

[tomacGTi]

Try this:

Take the starter apart and clean and regrease the gear drive. I would bet money that the brushes and armature are fine and it's just filled with bakelite that used to be grease.

What will it cost you but a little time?

If it turned, even slowly, chances are it's this. Also, most hardware stores (good ones) carry brushes just in case yours are cooked. Lightly polish the commutator with some fine grit sandpaper and put it back together.

[Mechannibalism]

I have a starter ('91 bandit)I'll part with. What country are you in?