Help!!!

[skootcha]

Ok so the background.. 1991 gsf400.. I got it from a bike shop and he says that he rebuilt the top end and fixed the electrical system..

Didn't ride it much for a year, only a few commutes. Dies on me a couple of times especially when hot.

I insured it just now.. Weather's great and it's killing me...

So here's what I did. I removed the carbs, cleaned all of them. Made the pilot screws to spec for 2 turns out. I didn't change the carb syncs, I left them as is. I checked the float bowl heights, set them at 15mm.

I also checked the valve clearances since it just had a new top end.. Checked all my bolt torques.. Sealed the top cover back on..

I put everything back on now and it cranks but will not grab or start properly. I checked each spark plug for spark and they're all good while cranking.. I checked float bowls, all have fuel.. The spark plugs were a bit wet and black, I wiped it all off. I dipped a screw driver into the plug hole, it wasn't full of gas..

I jumped the bike directly onto a car that was idling at 3K rpm so there should be enough juice. It cranks but doesn't hold.. Relay smoked for a bit so I let it rest...

Help please!!!

[skootcha]

Cranked it again, so far relay no smoke.. But still does not grab..

[TJS]

Did you pull the jumper cables off after starting? If so, did it idle?
3k idle is high. Should be less than 2k.
Check all fuses.
Check wire for burnt.
Pull head light plug. Is it burnt? Melted?

[Sean]

I had similar issues when I burnt through a rectifier (the smoke and not turning over). And the dieing when hot happened when I needed new coils. These coils sometimes check in spec at startup but when tested later test as junk. Also listen to TJS, he really knows these bikes and helped me out big time with my rejet last summer.

[skootcha]

Thanks guys. TJS, I meant my car was idling at 3K rpm to boost the bike. Maybe it did fry the rectifier? Although even after that boost, I checked the plugs, they do have sparks. I have a feeling it maybe the ignitors.. Good thing is that I have a 1983 gpz kawasaki that I can steal the ignitors from.. The downside to the stock bandit ignitors is that the wires are built in. The previous mechanic cut it a bit too short and the wire's being strained.. I guess I'll use the kawasaki ignitors and just buy/cut to fit new wire sets onto it.. I

TJS, the bike didn't start at all. I removed the battery from the bike and boosted it directly. The car idled while I was doing all this. Headlights still light up. Fuses are all good.

On a side note.. 2 batteries died on me already. Could it be that the rectifier is doing all this? Charging the battery in reverse perhaps? Is that even possible?

Does the rectifier test from the manual do any good?

This thing is sitting in my garage more than me sitting on it..

[TJS]

Each time you replaced the battery; it was new and known to be good?
Be sure your electrical connections are clean and fully connected. Spay the inside of each with electical cleaner. You can get that at any auto store.
Get a new battery that is fully charged and try again.
If you need to replace rectifier. That is $$ for a new one or there is a guy selling one for parts on here.... or check ebay. Your local dealer can get you an aftermarket one. OEM Suzuki is $$$.

Replace the wire and coil with after market or buy from a parts bike on here or ebay.

What is smoking now? Anything?

[TJS]

Sean, thanks for the endorsement!....I'm still learning.

[TJS]

Not my video, but the guy does a good job explaining how to test your electrics.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=44hLjPBObYw

[TJS]

How to use multi-meter:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zb7WHaL_dz8

[Sean]

Rectifiers from gs500's work on these bandits. And the gs500 is super common in junkyards and this part should easily be found on eBay, cheap. the prices on some part out on bandit alley can be rather high because we all have personal investments in these little bandits making us think they are much more valuable than they really are. I've seen prestine ones go for 1600 and part outs total to nearly 2500 lol

[skootcha]

Alright! my buddy and I just tested out the relay. It works fine. The starter checks out fine too. I dismantled it and tested each resistance on the leads and there are no leaks from the core to each contact. Brushes are all good.

Here's the catch.. The engine had trouble cranking! I removed the side inspection cover and torqued it and it can hardly turn. The cam chain was too tight! So i removed the valve cover again and then removed the cam chain tensioner, retracted it by turning clock-wise. locked it in place. Once bolted, I released the lock... Crank the engine slowly and monitored the chain to ensure it doesn't jump. You can see that the tensioner do its work automatically... now it seems fine.

I resealed my valve cover on. I'll let you guys know how it pans out tonight and share all my findings. hopefully this can help someone in the future. I really appreciate all the help guys! Thanks.

[skootcha]

Bike runs now! I just put a bit of spark plug grease in each grease connection.. I had to redo the friggin valve set 3 times just to make sure it's all good. I kept repeating all the steps to be sure. Tensioner's all fine now too. I even did a compression test and I was sitting at 120psi bang on for each cylinder while cranking with the starter.

I noticed the engine seems like it warmed up fast though.. Might be running lean..? I followed 1.5 turns out for the pilot screw for Canadian models.

I might send the bike it for a proper carb tune..

Maybe add an air/fuel sensor to make sure I don't run too lean and bake my engine? Paranoid??