Author Topic: clutch drag/shifting trouble (Read 11735 times)

Thief400 · « **Reply #15 on:** April 14, 2007, 11:18:06 AM »

Changing the thermostat is a must if you want to get the most power and consistant carberation out of this bike period

Banditmax · « **Reply #16 on:** April 14, 2007, 12:40:30 PM »

Where can i get a thermostat from? What bikes fits?

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #17 on:** April 14, 2007, 02:33:24 PM »

thought it said something about a honda f2 on the sight

erik · « **Reply #18 on:** April 14, 2007, 05:40:27 PM »

Quote from: "Thief400"

Changing the thermostat is a must if you want to get the most power and consistant carberation out of this bike period

Quote from: "El Dopa"

...
It won't make the bike run too hot, it will just keep it from running too cool when just cruising around."
...

I'll keep that in mind, but so far I haven't had any problems with the carburetion (apart from when the idle jet was blocked), it's been better than my last bike. I think my bike's been running too hot rather than too cool.

El Dopa · « **Reply #19 on:** April 15, 2007, 01:24:35 AM »

Quote from: "gsxr400 racer"

thought it said something about a honda f2 on the sight

CBR600F3. F3 was '95 - '98 I think.

erik · « **Reply #20 on:** April 22, 2007, 04:03:43 PM »

I got the new thermo switches in on saturday and went for a ride on sunday - the clutch is still dragging although maybe not as bad as before.

So it's time to try replacing the clutch plates. It's just the steel driven plates that I need to replace, right?

pmackie · « **Reply #21 on:** April 22, 2007, 04:21:35 PM »

It's best to change the friction plates when you change the steels, but if the friction plates measure within the wear limit in the manual you can reuse them, but it wouldn't be MY first choice. You should also measure the springs length against the manual limits and change them if they are too short.

If your planning to keep the bike for a long while, and want the clutch to be consistent again, maybe consider the full deal, steels and frictions.

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #22 on:** April 22, 2007, 10:24:40 PM »

Quote from: "El Dopa"

Quote from: "gsxr400 racer"
thought it said something about a honda f2 on the sight

CBR600F3. F3 was '95 - '98 I think.

they are probably the same thermostat in both the f2 and the f3 didn't change much in them bikes

erik · « **Reply #23 on:** June 03, 2007, 07:30:43 AM »

Well, I swapped 3 warped plates for new ones. Things have improved noticeably, but the clutch still drags more than I think it should.

I'm wondering if it's not getting enough oil delivered to it because both times when I pulled it apart, the plates looked fairly dry. I don't know if I should check the oil pressure (or what type and where to get a gauge to do it). I'm also thinking about pulling the clutch apart again and removing the clutch basket and clutch pushrod to see if I can see anything that might be reducing the oil flow to the clutch. Or possibly if there is a simple way to increase it a bit, but that might reduce the oil flow to the countershaft gears and bearings.

I'm not sure when I'll get around to doing it though.

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #24 on:** June 03, 2007, 11:34:57 AM »

you or anyone that works on your bike use a lot of rtv silicone / form a gasket crap? take your oil pan off and make sure your oil pic up screen is free of debris

erik · « **Reply #25 on:** June 03, 2007, 07:37:01 PM »

I try to use only a small amount because I've been warned that if you use too much bits can come off inside the engine and block oil passages.
I didn't think to check that though. When I get around to doing the clutch, I'll pull the oil pan off too.

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #26 on:** June 03, 2007, 07:49:46 PM »

i have a oil pan gasket or 2 in stock if you need one
cheers
jay

erik · « **Reply #27 on:** June 13, 2007, 05:32:50 AM »

Cheers for the offer, I would've probably got one off you if I was a bit closer.

I pulled the clutch apart again and removed the belly pan and had a look at the oil pump pickup filter. The filter had a few small pieces of silicone sealant but not enough to make a difference. I couldn't see anything wrong with the oil passageways through the clutch basket bearing etc, they all look fine.

I made a paper gasket for the sump and put it back together.

Photos from the day: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e118/edorp/bandit%20clutch/070610/

I guess I'll give up for a while with trying to fix it, I'm not sure what to try next.

I also made a slightly DIY looking pushrod for the gear lever out of a 6mm turnbuckle and a piece of 6mm threaded rod from the hardware store. So I'm trying out the race shift pattern to see what I think. I want to do trackdays in the future and maybe even a bit of racing, so it might be useful to switch to a race shift pattern now. Plus it's just interesting/fun trying it.

erik · « **Reply #28 on:** June 20, 2007, 07:04:51 AM »

The turnbuckle didn't last long. Lucky it broke on my short commute home yesterday rather than the 200km trip I did on sunday!

I got my boss to weld the end of the reverse thread onto another piece of standard threaded rod so I've got that on the bike now. It's really too flexible though. I need to find some 7 or 8mm stainless rod and make up a pushrod with that.

erik · « **Reply #29 on:** July 14, 2007, 07:19:21 AM »

Finally fixed the clutch dragging problem!

How'd I do it?

Changed the oil and filter...

I switched from Silkolene semi synthetic 10w40 to Repsol 15w50 mineral oil and the gear changes are improved, finding neutral is easier when hot etc.

One day I'll learn to try the simple stuff before I go pulling the bike apart... ;)

I'm still getting a sore hand from using the clutch on long rides though. I'm thinking it might be because of the padding in my winter gloves.