Author Topic: Fork Question...  (Read 4564 times)

Offline canyonbreeze

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Fork Question...
« on: April 11, 2011, 09:07:29 PM »
On the 91 Bandit 400, when changing the fork oil, springs and seals, is it necessary to remove the dampening rods?  All the how-to's I see remove them but it's after the other parts are out.  They seem the hardest part to remove needing a vise.  But if not adding gold valve emulators or other I don't see the point in removing them unless I'm missing something.

Offline pmackie

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #1 on: April 12, 2011, 12:53:03 AM »
It's difficult, but not impossible, to change the fork seals without completely dismantling the forks.

You can change the springs, and fork fluid easily, but to remove the fork seals, you need to work the old seals out, which you may be able to do with a small drill, screws, and patience. It's usually better to dismantle the forks, and they you can check out all the parts, and replace the seals.

To dismantle the forks, you need some kind of tool to hold the damper rods inside the forks, while you loosten the bolts. Some have made up a broom handle, or similar tool, or else you need a proper damper rod wrench.
Paul
2002-GSF600S, Progressive Fork Springs, B12 Shock,
SS Brake lines, EBC HH pads, Leo Vince Ex & Kappa bags.
Ex Bike Mechanic (late 70's), somewhat rusty
32 years in the Fuel/lubes industry(Retired)

Offline canyonbreeze

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #2 on: April 12, 2011, 10:37:39 AM »
Thanks for the response.  Can the springs just be pulled out from the top of the forks only removing the cap?

Offline tomacGTi

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #3 on: April 12, 2011, 12:11:07 PM »
You can generally break the bolts free with the springs still holding tension on the damper rods, makes it easier anyway. If you have a cordless impact, it's even easier.

Loosen (not remove the cap) while in the triple and then go after the damper rod bolts. After they're loose, then remove the fork caps. Loosen the upper triple so it doesn't bind up the fork cap.

You can pop the seals out by hydrolocking the fork (overfilling it) and then applying pressure when the retaining clips are out. People usually use a floor jack on one end an an immovable object on the other. IT WILL BE MESSY...Old fork oil stinks like hell too. I've also heard of people tapping the top of the fork with a mallet for the same desired effect.

Offline canyonbreeze

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #4 on: April 12, 2011, 02:53:42 PM »
Considering I only have an apartment patio to work on and no impact driver nor floor jack.  This may be one job I'll take to a shop.

Offline tomacGTi

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #5 on: April 12, 2011, 03:25:44 PM »
Well, pop the wheel out and before anything else, see if you can break the bolts under the axle free. That is the hardest part (and it's not even that difficult).

If they spin free, continue the job.

Offline canyonbreeze

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #6 on: April 12, 2011, 11:48:47 PM »
Ok, ordered fork seals, clips (the existing ones are a bit rusted) and a set of springs from Sonic.  Will give it a go when the parts get here. 

Offline canyonbreeze

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #7 on: April 13, 2011, 11:18:44 PM »
Hmmm, The manual says that the inner and outer friction metals MUST be changed along with the seals.  Is that really the case?  If so I'll have to get those on order.
 :thanks:

Offline tomacGTi

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #8 on: April 14, 2011, 06:24:37 AM »
Not necessarily but it doesn't hurt. They're coming out anyway when you slide hammer the legs apart. They aren't cheap but they aren't that expensive either.

Easy way to tell is to rock the lowers back and forth with the wheel out. If you feel play, you should replace the bushings. There should be zero play BTW.

Offline canyonbreeze

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #9 on: April 22, 2011, 12:52:19 AM »
I ordered the bushings but they still haven't shown up.  I wanted to get the springs in and seal fixed before a long road trip tomorrow.  The old bushings look in pretty good condition so probably can wait to replace.  No metal flecks at all anywhere.  The old oil was black but quite fluid, nothing muddy.  Got it all apart and back together using the how-to's on this site and others.  The only deviation is I didn't take the fender off, did both fork tubes together.  Put the Sonic 1.0kG straight rate springs and 15W oil.  Front end is much stiffer now.  Travel went from 4 1/2 inches to 2 inches.  Maybe a bit too stiff but feels much better.

Offline Wrider

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #10 on: April 22, 2011, 11:08:40 AM »
Are the bushings showing a decent amount of copper?  If not go ahead and put them back together, then replace when you get back.
If they're showing more than about 1/3 of themselves to be copper then you really do want to wait.

Offline canyonbreeze

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Re: Fork Question...
« Reply #11 on: April 25, 2011, 01:59:17 PM »
Put about 1200 miles on them in the last 3 days, feels great.  Will swap the bushings out next time as they still haven't come in.  Apparently even the Suzuki warehouse the shop orders from doesn't have them.

« Last Edit: April 25, 2011, 02:03:32 PM by canyonbreeze »

Offline JTOWN03

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