Oil choices?

[chef]

Hey guys,
Have just pulled the clutch from the beast & have noticed that several of the plates are glazed & am sure this is not from parking lot burnouts.
The oil is the correct weight 10w/40 & i think its a synthetic.
Any advice or suggestions as to what these Bandit wet clutches like?
Cheers,
Matt.

[tomacGTi]

This is opening up a can of worms but I honestly think the bike is not that temperamental, it is based on 1980's technology afterall.

I've run numerous oils including leftover "top-up" oils from the cars (Mobile 1, Valvoline, Pennzoil, WalMart brand) and really, they all felt great in the beginning and started to make the shifting "sticky" as their lives wore on. I will admit though that the higher grades: 15-50 and the like did not burn off as fast.

This is in the US mind you: If I were to go out and buy it (if I were being picky), I'd either get Rotella T synthetic or I know the Pep Boys has Castrol 4T on the shelf. Unless otherwise, whatever is on sale and just change it sooner than 5k. Fresh oil is better than fancy-pants old oil.

Unless you're the original owner of the bike and it's the original clutch, I'd say deglaze the discs and run it. I know my bike was the first for several owners so the original clutch as a bit tired.

[mosquito]

I agree with tomacGTi.  I've run a bunch of different oils and I can't tell much difference *except* the fact that the synthetic did seem to last longer.  I've mainly used Repsol, regular and synthetic, but have also used / topped off with Pennzoil, Valvoline, etc.  

Once I crashed on a wet rail and landed the stator cover *just so* on three pieces of gravel that punched holes into it and let it bleed out in downtown San Francisco.  I removed and then patched the cover with JB Weld and poured in 3 quarts of Quaker State just so I could get home.  I'd meant to just go home and change the oil again but I left it in 'cause it seemed to be running as well as ever just with an un-planned oil change.

*But* I haven't inspected my plates either, so I really can't speak directly to your situation.  

[raptorsc]

I have just started using a Shell synthetic in my 250V and very pleased with the quietness and power.

[chef]

Thanks for the input.
Replaced the plates,pressure disc & seals with original parts....filled the beast with mineral oil & OMG!!!
So smooth in shifting & getting on the power. Will have to find something else to replace or some other mod.

[VW_NUT]

Shell rotella T 5-40.  Cheap synthetic, thats easy to find and does not have friction modifyers that most gasoline oils have. ($19 gal at walmart).

[smooth operator]

  I've also have used several different kinds over the years. Since 98 the bike has never gone over 2k w/o a oil change. Many times @ 1k if I were doing track days. I've used synthetic since after break in. I was useing Motul,because my pal brought it in for me at the shop. Theres none there now and its time for a change,I'll probably pick up Castrol syn.or semi syn. I still have the original clutches and never had any slippage problems. And its been rode hard over the years.

[dhcolesj]

I found the last time I went for oil at the local stealer that Suzuki had a packaged Synthetic.  Anyone used that yet?  I was using Amsoil at about 12 bucks per quart.  I think this stuff was around 9 or 10, but can't recall exactly now.

[mademiriam]

with out starting a huge oil debate (i'm amazed this hasn't already) many oils sold as 'synthetic' aren't true synthetics, in the sense that they are still mostly mineral oil. I don't think that is a problem but it's nice to know what you're getting for your money.
I've run just about every kind of oil over the years. But the bandit and the R6 are on a diet of amsoil, can't say its worth it but that's how it is for now. Shell Rotella oil is what I fed the EX500 trackbike (non synthetic) mostly because we order it by the case at work, and to be kind to the old engine I changed the oil every few hours. I know several of the other budget minded racers use this oil as well, I'm tempted to swap the bandit over but the other half is holding firm and we'll continue to get the Amsoil.
As long as it doesn't have friction modifiers, as mentioned, you should be good to do.