New Brakes, Grinding Sound

[Vidrazor]

I just had new front brakes put on my B4 and now the front end is grinding when I stop. I put sintered pads on it. Is this normal with sintered pads? It sounds like it's coming from the left side of the brake (when seated and looking forward).

I looked at the pads and they seem to be in there correctly. There is grind wear on the disk, but I don't remember if it was there already. Could the combo of the new sintered pads and a worn disc create this sound? As I'm coming to a halt, it feels like raw metal is grinding together and the front wheel shudders just before stopping. I don't get it. Will this "settle in", or is something else going on here?

[gsxr400 racer]

maybe a sticking caliper

[Garyola]

Check and see that you have a pad on each side of the rotor and that they are not both on one side. I'v seen this happen.

G

[GooseMan]

I think its normal. When I put new HH sintered pads on my B4 last year, I noticed a noise too. Takes a WHILE for them to get seated in to the existing discs, and for them to break in.

[gsxr400 racer]

this can be done more quickly by sanding the disc

[Vidrazor]

>>Check and see that you have a pad on each side of the rotor and that they are not both on one side. I'v seen this happen.<<

Dude, I think you nailed it. Have a look at this:



That looks like the pad sticking out to me, no? That's the rotor in the back there.

This is what it's done to the rotor on that side (the sun was setting as I was shooting these):





Is this rotor shot, or is it still usable? This is what it looks like from relatively head-on:



It appears to still have a good bit of density. Would the pads smooth that surface down to a degree? I know this shop that put these pads on has to address this issue, but it would assume they would have a replacement rotor. If not, is this still usable if I have no option? I looked around ebay for a B4 rotor, but didn't see any. If necessary, can you use a rotor from another Suzuki?

Thanks for your input(s). I'm a bit freaked out that I rode around for a bit this way. I was deliberately riding to a high speed and quickly slowing down under the assumption that I was "forming" the shoes into the rotor. Sheesh! 

[Garyola]

OK, take that wheel off the bike. The best thing to do is get a new rotor but this one looks like it still has lots of thickness to it. Scrape off all those metal bits from the rotor and put the pads in properly. It won't look pretty but the brakes will work fine. There is a number stamped on the rotor. I think it's 4 mm. That is the minimum thickness the rotor should be.
Also check the calliper to make sure it isn't damaged. 

G

[Red01]

As long as it's not too deep, the rotor could be resurfaced, but depending on the cost of resurfacing (or being able to find someone that can resurface a m/c rotor), it may be cheaper to replace it.

[PitterB4]

I looked around ebay for a B4 rotor, but didn't see any. If necessary, can you use a rotor from another Suzuki?

Check the EBC part number.  It's the same as a few other bikes RF900 and either first or second gen B12 at least.

[Vidrazor]

>>Check the EBC part number.<<

Is that a Suzuki thing or an ebay thing?

[Banditmax]

Its an EBC thing. EBC are aftermarket manufacturers of brake discs.

[PitterB4]

Oh yeah!  Sorry..... what Max said!

I just looked it up.  Looks like all first and second gen B12s and RF900s 94-97.... click here

[gsxr400 racer]

 

[andrewsw]

Holy Crap. I wish I could be a fly on the wall when you start talking to the manager of that shop...

A

[Banditmax]

Umm i think the single disc bandit has different to the twin disc b12