Author Topic: Spark doesn't show (Read 23819 times)

PitterB4 · « **Reply #15 on:** March 23, 2005, 10:45:15 AM »

It has to be hosted somewhere like bikepics.com or imageshack.com. Once it is hosted, right-click the pic, select properties and copy the url (ending in an image extention like .jpg...). Paste the url into your message with the image tags before and after it and it will show-up in your post.

badidou · « **Reply #16 on:** March 23, 2005, 11:07:44 AM »

thanks pitter, hope it worked.

badidou · « **Reply #17 on:** March 23, 2005, 11:10:35 AM »

:oops: too small

PitterB4 · « **Reply #18 on:** March 23, 2005, 11:35:27 AM »

Quote from: "badidou"

:oops: too small

You took the properties of the thumbnail rather than the actual pic. This better?

badidou · « **Reply #19 on:** March 23, 2005, 12:40:44 PM »

Awesome, it looks a lot better

Bandit · « **Reply #20 on:** March 24, 2005, 10:30:38 AM »

I have an additional transistor on my CDI board which is different from the picture posted.

T5, T4(same as picture) and T1(additional transistor) describe on my board.

My CDI part number is 32900-10D60

magicGoose · « **Reply #21 on:** March 24, 2005, 02:34:16 PM »

The boards in the picture actually do have T1. It is the rectangular green component just above the circle around the four capacitors. How does your board look different? My part number is 32900-10D00 and it looks like the bottom board in the picture.

Bandit · « **Reply #22 on:** March 24, 2005, 09:43:13 PM »

This is the picture of my CDI, I have desolder 5 capacitors including the one beside the Kokusan chip, I have not taken a new pic with new capacitors yet.[/i]

gsxr400 racer · « **Reply #23 on:** March 25, 2005, 01:32:37 AM »

part numbers for usable gsxr CDI's 32900-32C00 and 32900-32C10

banditcilik · « **Reply #24 on:** March 28, 2005, 11:07:42 PM »

Hi,
I guess I'm trying to localized problem with my bike by eliminating each possibility before I tear off the CDI box. Following some of the posting that bad regulator could damage the CDI, I felt I need to test the regulator first. Bandit manual says that reading on 5000 rpm should be between 13-15V. Mine is steadily at 13,75V.
My bike usually start with 10 to 15 cranks or so but then I found a strange thing. This morning I set the ignition key to 'on' and crank it once and I thought I leave it on for a while to charge the suspected 'bad capacitor' inside the CDI. After 15 minutes I came back and push the start button, voila! It went live instantly. Is this really an indicator of a bad capacitor or it is just incident (cause I only try once)?

Red01 · « **Reply #25 on:** March 28, 2005, 11:19:26 PM »

I'd suspect this is more luck than anything. Capacitors charge quickly... in microseconds. They have to to fire the spark plugs at the kind of RPM these engines turn.
Keep in mind 10,000 RPM is 167 revolutions per SECOND.

That means the ignition box has to fire 334 times a second.
(At 10K RPM)

banditcilik · « **Reply #26 on:** March 29, 2005, 11:49:26 AM »

Maybe it is the fact for good capacitor Red, but if the same thing also happens with bad capacitor then why do we have to replace them? I'm not expert in this so I don't know the real facts. I guess the caps just don't hold or charge as good as the new one.

This is quoted from post by badidou or datsunk (I forget) :
Oh man my bandit's CDI just broke down the other day... Used my friend's CDI and test on my bike... No problem... When i use back my old CDI, have to start a few times... So went to change the capacitors... Bought it at $0.80(singapore) for 4 capacitors... Went to find a person to solder for me and he charge me $10 but i gave him $20 cos he says hard to solder... Then after fixing it still have difficulty starting... but after starting and took it for a spin now it's running good... Maybe have to charge up the capacitor... Hope the CDI dun go hay-wire again....

Well. should give another try I guess.

Maniac · « **Reply #27 on:** March 29, 2005, 03:12:39 PM »

Caps charge fast, thats true...

Damaged caps 'leak' voltage and don't charge (I don't think 'charge' is the right term, but it's close enough) as much. If the damage is really bad, they won't charge at all. Voltage leaks on a system such as this are bad, since I suspect the Caps are part of the timing circuit, if they start to come out of spec then the timing circuit won't function correctly, and that will cause the system to not send a 'fire' signal.

I suspect that the transistors a few people replaced are PNP Power Transistors, which are designed for use in Amplifiers and Switching Circuits. Seeing that, since I plan on replacing the caps in mine I may as well nail those Transistors too.

banditcilik · « **Reply #28 on:** March 29, 2005, 09:31:28 PM »

So Maniac,
do you suggest to replace the twin transistor also? Anybody know how to test this semiconductor if they are still in the spec tolerance?

Thief400 · « **Reply #29 on:** March 29, 2005, 09:42:53 PM »

The Caps are there to protect the transistors. The transistors are the switches that turn the coils on and off to fire the plugs. When the transistor open the primary curcuit to fire the coil not only is a high voltage of up to 40000 volts produced in the secondary windings of the coil but a voltage is also produced in the primary windings as well. Up to 500 volts, and it heads back to the transistor. The transistors don't like 500 volts going though them so the Caps are there to absorb the shock.