Author Topic: Spark doesn't show (Read 23389 times)

Maniac · « **Reply #30 on:** March 29, 2005, 10:21:00 PM »

Quote from: "Thief400"

The Caps are there to protect the transistors. The transistors are the switches that turn the coils on and off to fire the plugs. When the transistor open the primary curcuit to fire the coil not only is a high voltage of up to 40000 volts produced in the secondary windings of the coil but a voltage is also produced in the primary windings as well. Up to 500 volts, and it heads back to the transistor. The transistors don't like 500 volts going though them so the Caps are there to absorb the shock.

That being said... yeah, I'd probally consider replacing the transistors.

banditcilik · « **Reply #31 on:** April 03, 2005, 03:46:27 AM »

Guys...guys...help!
Continuing the checking procedure of my sparkless problem I checked the coils. Readings are still within specs : primary is 3 Ohm and secondary is 30 some (manual specs for primary is 2.8 - 3 Ohm and 30K - 50K Ohm for secondary). So I guess my coils is still healhy.
This is it, I follow some of you guys, tearing the black box. Inside it looks similar to picture posted by bandit but different from Pitter's. It has two diodes near the capacitors (Pitter's CDI has what looks like two resistors).
Here's the link at bikepics, hope they'll let it be for a while :

http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/323082/

Now, the problem is the gummy thing on the circuit board keeps the board stick with upper half of the box. I don't want to forcefully detaching the board. I'm afraid it may break. Do you guys know some kind of solvent to ease removal of this gum? I can't read what type of the transistors, the gum is all over it.
Any advise will be appreciated, thanks.

Bandit · « **Reply #32 on:** April 03, 2005, 10:31:23 AM »

Quote from: "banditcilik"

Guys...guys...help!
Continuing the checking procedure of my sparkless problem I checked the coils. Readings are still within specs : primary is 3 Ohm and secondary is 30 some (manual specs for primary is 2.8 - 3 Ohm and 30K - 50K Ohm for secondary). So I guess my coils is still healhy.
This is it, I follow some of you guys, tearing the black box. Inside it looks similar to picture posted by bandit but different from Pitter's. It has two diodes near the capacitors (Pitter's CDI has what looks like two resistors).
Here's the link at bikepics, hope they'll let it be for a while :

http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/323082/

Now, the problem is the gummy thing on the circuit board keeps the board stick with upper half of the box. I don't want to forcefully detaching the board. I'm afraid it may break. Do you guys know some kind of solvent to ease removal of this gum? I can't read what type of the transistors, the gum is all over it.
Any advise will be appreciated, thanks.

Your CDI looks exactly like mine, the capacitors orientation. Probably your bandit is exported from Singapore to Indonesia because the used bandit400 is not fetching $$ here.

Mine CDI board sticks to the casing by glue as well, I use a glue remover, basically acetone to apply on the glue to soften it and scrape off with a flat blade screwdriver, becareful not to damage the electronics. After you removed most of the glue you should be able to remove the board by pulling it out, not upwards or downwards because the board is sitting inside a groove.

banditcilik · « **Reply #33 on:** April 04, 2005, 12:02:17 AM »

You're right Bandit. It is from S'pore. Now for the twin transistor does it mean 2SD798 can be replaced by 2SD1071? Are these only transistors to replace? What about the third?
And which capacitors should I replace?
Appreciate.

banditcilik · « **Reply #34 on:** April 04, 2005, 03:25:59 AM »

BTW, is it OK to soak the whole circuit board to solvent like acetone?

Thanks

badidou · « **Reply #35 on:** April 04, 2005, 06:42:23 AM »

I would replace the capacitors first. If it still does not work replace the transistors.

Bandit · « **Reply #36 on:** April 04, 2005, 11:24:14 AM »

Quote from: "banditcilik"

BTW, is it OK to soak the whole circuit board to solvent like acetone?

Thanks

I think better not soak it in acetone. Check the previous post to see which capacitors to change.

I emailed kokusan Denki for the rating of the transistor, not sure if they will reply me.

banditcilik · « **Reply #37 on:** April 05, 2005, 03:09:14 AM »

Does it looks like 2SD798 or 1071? I don't see those letters on my transistors.

http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/324733/

Bandit · « **Reply #38 on:** April 05, 2005, 04:40:05 AM »

Quote from: "banditcilik"

Does it looks like 2SD798 or 1071? I don't see those letters on my transistors.

http://www.bikepics.com/pictures/324733/

The right transistor on your pic looks burnt. 2SD798 is a replacement for 1071 (maybe its obsolete) .

2SD 798 spec as per follow

NPN - DARLINGTON / 600V / 6A / 30W/B>1K5

http://www.donberg.ie/descript/2/2sd1071.htm

Bandit · « **Reply #39 on:** April 05, 2005, 10:35:48 AM »

http://users.rcn.com/kochc/moto/spark/ig_repair.html

Another website for ignitor repair (Honda), additional tips to check.

banditcilik · « **Reply #40 on:** April 06, 2005, 06:52:09 AM »

The circuit board was successfully off it's case and I did some cleaning with acetone. This morning I decided to plug it back, just want to make sure I didn't damage anything in the cleaning process.

First try, and the engine instantly ran. But strange thing, it climbed for higher RPM hardly and abruptly.

I will try to replace the caps anyway and see what will hapen.

Bandit, do you know what type for the one cap next to the kokusan denki chip? I melt its wrapping on the cleaning process.

Appreciate.

Bandit · « **Reply #41 on:** April 06, 2005, 09:33:00 AM »

Quote from: "banditcilik"

The circuit board was successfully off it's case and I did some cleaning with acetone. This morning I decided to plug it back, just want to make sure I didn't damage anything in the cleaning process.

First try, and the engine instantly ran. But strange thing, it climbed for higher RPM hardly and abruptly.

I will try to replace the caps anyway and see what will hapen.

Bandit, do you know what type for the one cap next to the kokusan denki chip? I melt its wrapping on the cleaning process.

Appreciate.

If your bike can be fire up in one click dun think its the CDI problem, more like you have a leak somewhere which cause the bike to run lean. Please check did you install the carb properly or are you missing or have worn o-rings in your carb,

banditcilik · « **Reply #42 on:** April 06, 2005, 11:56:50 PM »

The fuel supply was checked so many times and the problem stays. Carbs vacuum were calibrated, jets setting were adjusted, carbs were cleaned several time. The last time I brought her to Suzuki and the mechanic confirm that it has ignition problem. It is just impossible to try swapping the unit with other bikes since no other B4 being serviced and they got no stock for new blackbox.
Anyway it's already torn off.

Bandit · « **Reply #43 on:** April 07, 2005, 07:24:38 AM »

Quote from: "banditcilik"

The fuel supply was checked so many times and the problem stays. Carbs vacuum were calibrated, jets setting were adjusted, carbs were cleaned several time. The last time I brought her to Suzuki and the mechanic confirm that it has ignition problem. It is just impossible to try swapping the unit with other bikes since no other B4 being serviced and they got no stock for new blackbox.
Anyway it's already torn off.

The bandit airbox is a bitch to installed, I have the tacho surging problem last time and it was due to one of the airbox rubber boot not matching up with the carbs correctly causing air leak.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #44 on:** April 07, 2005, 08:43:27 AM »

Quote from: "Bandit"

The bandit airbox is a bitch to installed, I have the tacho surging problem last time and it was due to one of the airbox rubber boot not matching up with the carbs correctly causing air leak.

FWIW - I've had mine off more times that I can count. It's SOOOO much easier if you take the top off and the filter out and reach your hand in each intake to push the boots on.

In addition to vacuum leaks, RPM surging can be caused by out-of-synch carbs.