Still sparkless.

[Mick77]

Wasn't sure if I would get any looks if I continued my CDI post, but if I need to move this and continue it there, let me know.   
(91 B4)
Had the caps replaced in my CDI, connected it all up, took out a plug and grounded it to the cylinder head and SAW A SPARK.  Ok, so I figure I'll plug it back up and fire it up to run it a little.  ONe crank, one start for one second, then dead.  Ok, well it's sat for a while so I try again... and again...  pull the plug and test BOTH coils for spark, and NONE.  Even cleaned the plugs up a bit just in case but no. 

My question is this:  WHY would I have seen a spark once, and gotten a fire once, and then never again?  One of my coils is relatively new, so the odds of both failing are slim.  I checked the whole thing over for loose/bare wires and connections finding none.  My friend is coming over on Sunday with his meter and we're gonna check it right.  Ifigured I'd do some data gathering and see if anyone has any ideas, or simply where to start with the meter so we don't waste a bunch of time.  I'm about ready to take out a stupid LOAN to get a bike that likes me. 

[doqq]

question, What brand of coils are u using?  The reason I asked is because the dealer i took my bike in replaced both my coil packs with the wrong model from Accel and it fried my new Ignitor unit. 

[Mick77]

They're just OEM, or direct replacement parts.. they have no markings anywhere that would lead me to believe they are aftermarket *or better than stock* They were on the bike when I got it.  It ran fine up until 2 weeks ago.  The guy that had it before me replaced one of them, i think the right one for 2&3.  But I have probably put somewhere in the neighborhood of 5000 miles on it since then ( it has spent a lot of time in pieces... which seems to be the state it prefers)

[doqq]

If i were you i would recheck that repaired CDI or Ignitor unit i should say and check the coils primary and secondary's resistance.  Also are the spark plugs new?  I would also check the two wire that go into each coil pack.  Sometimes they get switched around on accident...I think the orange wire goes to positive and the other goes to negative on the coil pack.  Anyways since your buddy is coming over sunday with a meter that is what i suggest u do. 

[Mick77]

Alright Doqq, that's where I'll start.  I had also thought to check the wires from the stator, the RR, and a few other places.  I'll let you guys know what I find. 

ON a side note, upon searching through posts about the CDI Repair, I found that some people replaced more than just the 4 capacitors, has anyone else had to replace anything else in that dumb box?  Don't really know what else to ask, I'm full of barbecue and super sore from a softball tournament  so I can't really think straight now    

[Chris H]

Dont think it can be the stator side, you could check the pickup sensor that comes out of the left side casing, it should read between 80 and 120 ohms. Regarding the cdi you can test every resistor by just testing across them, but caps and transistors have to be out of the box. If i can find time later today i will test a good cdi verse a bad one and compare then post the values across each connection.
Chris.

[interfuse]

Check the pick-up coil and safety switches...

[Mick77]

well, my buddy left me high and dry... so all i have for now is an old skool test light .  just messing around with it last night i turned the key on and found power at the harness on the cdi that has the 4 or 6 wires (cant remember, it was late) but no power on the black/blue and brown that are in the smaller harness, even when trying to turn the bike over.  No power at the coils or any other little connectors either.  Mean anything? 
Just thought I'd post up my fumbling progress and let you guys know I have not abandoned my "post", I"m still checking it every day for new ideas from the peanut gallery, so    and I'll try the latest, and let you know how it goes.

[PitterB4]

Mike had a good idea to check the safety switches.  It seems that someone had a problem with their run/kill switch at some point, too. 

[stormi]

Mike had a good idea to check the safety switches.  It seems that someone had a problem with their run/kill switch at some point, too. 

I typically have a problem with the fact that my kill switch has both an on and an off position and that I apparently fidget on the bike enough to change it's position while riding.    I've done it on 2 of three bikes so far.  Only Dita remains so far.

well, my buddy left me high and dry... so all i have for now is an old skool test light Duh!.  just messing around with it last night i turned the key on and found power at the harness on the cdi that has the 4 or 6 wires (cant remember, it was late) but no power on the black/blue and brown that are in the smaller harness, even when trying to turn the bike over.  No power at the coils or any other little connectors either.  Mean anything? 

As the others were alluding to: this means that your power problem is further back than the coils.  Sparkies and coils have no power getting to them, thus no spark.  I wonder if the wiring diagram would be helpful here to see if there's a clear path to trace for power from the CDI to the plugs...? 

I have to race out of here right away, so I can't look, but someone with the service manual or the owner's manual (and a magnifying glass) should be able to check. 

Also, the service manual is available in our downloads section if you haven't already grabbed it.

[Mick77]

Could there still be a problem with the kill switch if I have tried to start it in the off and the on position and it seems to work properly?  Is there some little widget in there that could still be messed up and allowing it to turn over but not spark?  I have also tried to start it with the kickstand up, to no avail.

[Chris H]

Hi Mick,
You will not have 12v on the black/blue and brown as they are from the signal generator. You should have 12v at the red and this goes up to the on/off switch and is then returned via the orange going first to the coil and then into the fuse box as two orange and out as a orange/green and orange/yellow, these got to relays etc. You will know if the relays work as if you remove the positive from the battrey and then refit you will hear a click as the relay opens. The white and the blk/yel to the coils come from the cdi and then the blk/y goes to the revcounter and back to ground ( blk/white).

[interfuse]

If it's turning over it's probably not safety switches... check pickup coil. :)

[PitterB4]

Mike had a good idea to check the safety switches.  It seems that someone had a problem with their run/kill switch at some point, too. 

I typically have a problem with the fact that my kill switch has both an on and an off position and that I apparently fidget on the bike enough to change it's position while riding.    I've done it on 2 of three bikes so far.  Only Dita remains so far.

A particularly fun trick on the track...  which I've done!

[Mick77]

if it isn't one thing it's certainly another... I went and picked up a meter and came home after class tonight all excited about figuring this thing out and found that my daughter had lost my keys for me...  So I figured I would just test some of the resistances and continuity.  I get 3.7 on both coils where the wires go, but absolutely nothing from plug cap to plug cap on either side.  Did I read that wrong or something?  Isn't that how you check the "other" coil?  I looked at the wiring diagram, and it seems to me that there are two coils inside each coil pack.  in short, I have a meter, but am completely lost with it.  Any pointers... please?
oh, and one other thing: what's the "pickup coil"?