05 1200s with ivans stage 1

[rspector]

got my ivans stage one yesterday and installed it,I didn't need to choke the bike to get it to start this morning (always had to in the past) and when I get up in the rpm range I get some serging , the bike does not feel any quicker then it did with the stock jetting in it. I have an rs3 can on the bike with the stock headers. My feeling now is that its a little fat on the bottem and a little lean on the top. Can you change needle position with out takin the carbs out of the bike? if so which way should I go on the needles, I'm planning on screwing the mixture screws into 3 turns out (currently at 4). Any suggestions?
 Thanks

[Red01]

Yes, you can change needle positions without pulling the carbs.
Move the clip down one notch at a time until you get the desired results if you're wanting it fatter on the needle circuit.

[Red01]

OH! And if you have any troubles, don't be afraid to call Ivan, I hear he's very good about helping out his customers sort their bikes out.

[rider123]

I change the shims on my bike all the time. Easy. Just take the tank off or if you're super lazy like me just unconnect the fuel meter lead and the fuel and vacuum line. THe tank will have enough slack to pull it back and bit then you can turn it 90 degrees to the right and it will sit on the frame like that no problem which saves you having to take off those hellish vent lines. Then you just unscrew the top carb caps and go.

I would highly recomend putting a rag in front of the carb you're working on so it can catch that tiny o-ring that sometimes gets stuck on the inside of the cap. Be super carefull taking the caps off and look for that "o-ring of death". If you lose that o-ring you're screwed. Drop you're needles one notch at time and then fiddle with the mixture screws. Try not to make too many changes at once. Do it gradually. I think it's a good idea to turn the mixture screws to 3 and drop the circlip one notch on the needle and see how that works out 4 turns out seems a little excessive for a stage 1. WHere is the circlip now? In the middle?

[snofrog]

Did you do the airbox mod ? on mine wich is a 00 I went 3 turns out on the screws middle notch on the needle and the supplied jets .20 ) 3/8" dia holes in the airbox lid per the supplied template .now that I just put in a k&n I will be bumping the pilots and mabee the needles but for the stock filter it worked great . you are running a stock filter right ?

[gearset01]

I just installed my new RS-3 last night, the packet stated for best results remove the snorkel from the air box when using stock jetting. I rode with it in first and then removed it. There was a slight difference, I was originally going to jet but I gotta tell ya, Im likeing the way it is with just the pipe and snorkel removed. I may remove the plugs on the carbs and fiddle a bit with the adjustment there. And when I work up the courage remove the carbs and try the Radio Shack shim kit.
Paul is there a good post for the shimming steps, including RS part number for the washers and steps. I think I saw something but cant remember the details.
Thanks for your valuable help and guidance on the phone.
PIN

[Red01]

According to Fast Larry's Bandit FAQ the Radio Shack "Shim Set" Part is # 64-3022A. Since this was published (several years ago) there have been some reports that the washers in this kit that are the ID to fit the needles have a larger OD than original, others say they have no problems, so it may be they get the washers from different suppliers. If the OD is too large, it will hang up inside the slide and hold the needle much higher, so my advice is whatever source you use for the washers/shims be sure they'll go all the way to the bottom of the slide without hanging up. If they do hang up, you can make them smaller with a sanding disc.

Don't know that there's a "good post" on shimming - it's pretty simple to do. Remove the carb tops (and take care not to loose the little O rings), pull out the diaphragm and slide assy, pull the needles out of the slides (needle nose pliers are very handy for this) and put a shim under the E clip on the needles - between the E clip and the spacers that are already there. Reassemble.

That said, I think you'll be even happier with a jet kit though. I was reluctant to rejet myself, but took the dive and am glad I did.

[PaulVS]

Here's a great how-to video for shimming carbs:

http://video.yahoo.com/video/play?_adv_prop=video&va=shim+carbs&ei=UTF-8&b=0&oid=4d6cfe3bd645d33e&rurl=www.geocities.com&vdone=http%3A%2F%2Fvideo.yahoo.com%2Fsearch%2Fvideo%3F_adv_prop%3Dvideo%26va%3Dshim%2Bcarbs%26ei%3DUTF-8&vback=Results

If you buy the Radio Shack assorted bag of washers, you'll find there is only one size that fits, so it's a no-brainer.

[Bazza]

I have Ivan's kit in my 02 Bandit.

Airbox Mod done (as to Ivan's Instructions)
Needles set on the middle clip. 3rd position from either top or bottom
112 mains (I believe this is what Ivan supplies & came with the kit)
A/F screws out 4 5/8 turns. (just a little over 4 1/2 turns)

I have also added 17 Pilot jets (This only helps in obtaining a smoother idle) I live in a very dry / cold climate. This is not something Ivan recomended but it helped me optain a smoother idle.

All I can tell you is that mid range kick in the pants power is like night & day compared to stock. A tottally different bike, plain & simple.

I also have a Yoshi TRS Race can on mine.

[Rocketjock]

So, I wonder when they went to a single setting on the needles? My 06 B12 has that. I guess that's where the shims come in.

[snofrog]

my stock needles only had a single slot in them but for tuning the new ones supplied in the kit have 5 different notches or settings you can use to adjust your needles

[Bazza]

So, I wonder when they went to a single setting on the needles? My 06 B12 has that. I guess that's where the shims come in.

The stock bandit needles have no adjustment settings (Thus the need for shims)

Ivan supplies his self made tapered needles that have 5 adjustment points, in his Kit.

Dale (Holeshot) supplies shims to shim up the stock needles in his kit.

[Bazza]

got my ivans stage one yesterday and installed it,I didn't need to choke the bike to get it to start this morning (always had to in the past) and when I get up in the rpm range I get some serging , the bike does not feel any quicker then it did with the stock jetting in it. I have an rs3 can on the bike with the stock headers. My feeling now is that its a little fat on the bottem and a little lean on the top. Can you change needle position with out takin the carbs out of the bike? if so which way should I go on the needles, I'm planning on screwing the mixture screws into 3 turns out (currently at 4). Any suggestions?
 Thanks

I can tell you Respector that I have tried playing around with the clip settings on Ivan's needles and the best setting is at 3 (right in the middle slot) Go any higher and you will be rich at midrange, any lower and you will be lean at midrange.

Most people have their screws turned 3 1/2 to 3 3/4 out.

[Asphalt]

I just rejetted with a similar set up.  3 to 3.25 turns out is good.  seems to be the norm, I had mine a 2.75 turns and its running lean.  Go to three turns (its easier to do right at hand) and if that doesn't help then move the clip..)do the easy obvious stuff first.