Adjustment of steering head bearings

[NarkolepticBandit600S]

I have searched the forums but couldnt find any specific info for my question.  I have a G2 B6, I have stearing wobble...I cant seem to pin down the problem, its either an out of round tire, or stearing head needs adjusted. 

Long story short...had fork seals replaced and then poof my bars shake now!! The shop is useless so I am hoping that with your guys, (gals) help I can narrow down the problem and then go from there.
I would love to know what the process is for tightning the steering head the correct way and or to check if it needs it....I do think that there is a little amount of play but not much in the head bearings through the bars. If I put on the front break and rock back and forth its very hard to feel but there is something feeling loose.
Any tips and tricks to check out all these things I would love to know.
After a 20min ride I can feel that I am more fatigued then I was before all this started.

[txbanditrydr]

Since the steering head bearings should never have been touched I doubt the fork seal change altered their adjustment but they are a common contributor to steering head shake.

First check for looseness in the head itself.  This is done by jacking the front wheel off the ground, grabbing the forks and doing a push/pull (forward and aft) to see if the steering stem wobbles in the triple tree.  It's easier to detect play if you remove the front wheel - less weight to overcome.  Don't confuse steering head bearing play with fork tube play.... you're looking for movement at the triple tree.

Even if no looseness is detected you can easily check the proper adjustment with a few tools you may not have.  Take the handlebars off (4 Allen bolts) and loosen the top bolts of the triple tree.  Remove (or loosen) the crown nut (acorn nut) using the socket you likely will have to buy.  Underneath that you'll see a slotted nut that the special Suzuki tool fits perfectly... however some people (who shall remain nameless) use a drift punch and hammer to adjust this lower nut.

The factory manual sez to tight this nut to 45 ft.lbs. and then back it off 1/4 turn on new bearing installation.  The key is to get the bearings seating without too much pressure, which causes premature wear.  The adjustment point will be measured with a spring scale attached to the end of the handlebar and an initial resistance force of 7 - 17 ounces will be required to move the bars.

Now the tricky part....  you have to adjust the "castle" nut then torque the crown nut and (technically) re-install the handle bars before using the spring scale.  I simply lay the handle bars in their slot to do the resistance test.  Use very small adjustments of the castle nut - 1/16 of a turn will make a difference but do not measure the initial resistance without installing the crown nut to torqued spec.

After you have the steering head bearings adjusted re-install the handle bars and don't forget to tighten the top fork bolts.  If you notice any grinding or notchyness during the adjustment you'll likely need new bearings.  You can also attempt to re-grease the existing ones but that involves removing the forks. 

[DaveG]

trust me it's the front tire
replace with one without circumferal grooves.

[pmackie]

Tx gotter nailed perfectly on adjusting the steering head bearings, but I also doubt that is your problem.

In my experience, you can do two things:
1. Change the front tire. The most stable one on my B6 was the Pilot Road.
2. Increase your fork preload.
3. If your forks are dropped in the clamps, move them up a bit.