B1200 Clutch master cyl rebuild or replace????

[Daytona]

A few days ago, (new to this great site that sombody works very hard too keep so great!) thanks. I asked if anyone knew why my clutch lever clearance would be sloppy until bike was rode a while, it then gets tighter or like it should feel, and why the fluid got muddy after a few weeks, after change and bleeding. I was told by one of two who took the time to answer (thanks) i should look for a replacment cyl! It looks like the repair kit does come with a spring along with the soft stuff, which i think the sloppy feel is from a broken return spring in the cyl. $40.00 for the kit from suzuki. Does anyone know if its worth the rebuilding or are they "fubar" after 30k of riding. Its a 98 B1200, DOT4 fluid changed often. It still works but getting worse!!!     Any help would be    Has this happened to anyone else? The kits are hard to find! not like the brake side which are all over, ebay and other sites, seems to me the clutch would wear out first it gets way more use!!!                                   OK i see a few folks looking at this! but no one wadding in on it!! I will be taking the cheap route first, and keep yawl posted if i get some request's for it.  Thanks for the help, i'll add the outcome after.



  Hey just got this fixed!! 2 mos to get the little kit. Broken return spring was the problem! The two pcs were chaffing into ea other causing the dirty fluid. These kits are on back order from suzuki @ all sites so if your lever is getting stuck, floppy, or just isn't snappy like it was* get one comin before your bike is down for this minor thing. $$$ cost less than $20.00 @ most suppliers. This can be R&Red with no more tools than a 10mm wrench and an ice pick. lots of the metric bike's use this same kit bandit/intruder etc. The kit comes with the boot, suzuki Part# 59800-08810.

[Red01]

I'd probably go the rebuild route first, too.

Is the kit you found Suzuki p/n 59800-08810?

If so, it's only $19.13 from Ron Ayers

[terrebandit]

A lttle advice before you get started.  My advice comes from the "been there, done that" category on front brake master cylinders...

Take the whole master cyl assembly off the bike and take it apart.  Carefully inspect the bore of the Master cyl for "pitting".  If you find pitting the master cyl is TOAST!  At that point, I would keep an eye on ebay for a used one in excellent condition.  You will pay far less than a new one in that case and guys are taking them off wrecked bikes all the time.  If you can't wait, you will have to buy a new one.

If you find no pitting, do what Paul said and buy you a piston cup set from ron Ayers.

Pitting is causeed by water in your fluid causing corosion in the master cyl.  It especially occurs on bike that sit outside and do not get thier fluid changed regular.  The darkening of the fluid almost always occurs on the clutch side first (before the brake).  I'm not sure why this is but, I think its because the clutch is used more oftem (every time you shift).

Good luck....

You will need a snap ring pliers to get this job done.  Do yourself a favor and buy one before you start.  They can be had at Sears.

Dave