Author Topic: Ranting: Maintenance  (Read 3273 times)

Offline Sven

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Ranting: Maintenance
« on: June 23, 2006, 03:42:49 PM »
How in the world does anyone do their own bike maintenance, and not go insane/broke?

Last weekend I bought brake pads that many here have recommended.  Using the OEM service manual, I followed the steps to remove the rear brake pads, but had trouble getting the pins out.  Got advice on that here, tackled it again today.  Got the old pads off, could not get the new ones in, and the advice here didn't help.  So, laying on my back on the floor, I ended up being happy to cram the old pads back into place.  As it was, I couldn't get one of the little spring clips back, so I am holding onto it for some later date.

I've bought so much crap just to do some SIMPLE maintenance tasks, but it looks like being able to elevate the bike so I can see under it will be neccessary to do the brakes and other wheel stuff.

When does this END?!

AND...it's not like you just go past the bike shop and they do work while you wait or have any parts in stock, so even if I didn't mind the expense, the hassle won't go away.
2003 Suzuki Bandit 1200S | el Bandido de Cerceta | the teal bandit
2010 Yamaha FJR1300A | Gin Tama | the silver bullet
2002 Honda CRV | the dirt-colored car

Offline 2005B12S

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Ranting: Maintenance
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2006, 09:21:52 PM »
You should be able to change rear pads on the sidestand. Once the old pads were removed did you compress the pistons? This can be done by hand, just remove the cover on the reservoir first to allow the pressure to bleed back.

With the pistons compressed the new pads will go right into the caliper. The pin and retainer clips will hold the pads in. Use a pencil or wooden paint stick to hold the pads apart as you slip the caliper onto the disc. Torque it all down and bleed if necessary.

Don't over complicate things and read the manual before starting. Buy good quality tools and the cost will be recouped over many years of use. As you get used to performing maintence, each task will get easier.

Good Luck, Ed.
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED
1992 900SS

"The quality of the kite matters little, sucess depends upon the man sitting in it" Manfred Von Richthofen

Offline jbrough7

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Ranting: Maintenance
« Reply #2 on: June 24, 2006, 07:21:13 AM »
I know exactly how you feel, Sven....then the other part of it is, "How much time can I/should I devote to this?  Life is too short to to spend it doing something that is going to frustrate the hell out of you.  If you can fix something and do a good job at it, then fine.  But if it doesn't work out, ARGGGHHH!!

Doing tie rod ends on a Mazda Tribute this weekend so I'll see how that goes...

Good luck!

Jim

Offline Sven

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Ranting: Maintenance
« Reply #3 on: June 24, 2006, 10:10:22 AM »
Quote from: 2005B12S
You should be able to change rear pads...


Ed, thanks for the support...I actually tried all the things you mentioned, and just couldn't wedge those b@stards in place.  I really think not being able to see what I'm doing made it harder.  I really need to be able to elevate the bike if I'm gonna keep trying to do stuff.

PS:  I did get one of those MightyVac pumps, and that makes brake fluid bleeding so quick and simple that the Gatorade bottle method we got from the ZRX site should be banned!
2003 Suzuki Bandit 1200S | el Bandido de Cerceta | the teal bandit
2010 Yamaha FJR1300A | Gin Tama | the silver bullet
2002 Honda CRV | the dirt-colored car

Offline Bob Holland

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Ranting: Maintenance
« Reply #4 on: June 24, 2006, 04:33:10 PM »
A man's just got to know his limitations :beers:
If I didn't have a Suzuki, I would have a Kawasaki

Offline nuttyprof1

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Pads
« Reply #5 on: June 24, 2006, 07:12:03 PM »
One little trick I have, which makes things a lot faster, is to crack the bleed screw a bit when I push the pistons back inside the calipers. I put a plastic tube (the same I use to bleed the brakes) on the screw, crack it open, and pushing back the piston is easy. I small quantity of fluid will back up that way. Of course, since I am going to bleed the brakes after I am done anyway, this does not cause any problem. I find that just trying to push the fluid back into the master cylinder requires too much effort and I never get the pistons back all the way. Trust me, when you get used to it, changing brake pads is a very quick job, even if you double and triple check the torques on all bolts, as I do (I would hate for brakes to come loose...)