B12 issues

[DizzixX]

Long story short my father passed on. When he did I inherited the B12 (2000). I rode it alot before then but after I got busy with school and life and what not. I went to winterize it that same year and didnt realize it was low on oil. I rode it to the gas station (about 1-2 miles). When I got there it was ticking. I rode it home and put it away for 4 years cursing myself.

I recently got it out. I checked the valve lash. Cleaned the carbs, and synched them.

Its just not the same anymore and it still doesnt sound right. I am going to adjust the TPS and re synch for the hell of it this weekend. Anyone have any ideas of what else I should look into?

[txbanditrydr]

Define "just not the same"... and remember that Bandit motors are noisy by nature.

How's the power?... idle???... if it runs I would make sure you have plenty of oil and ride the snot out of it.   

[DizzixX]

The Idle has always been lopey but now its more so. There is not really much power before 5k. It used to have two distinct powerbands one at 2k and one at 4.5k. It used to top out at 165 now only 145.

When decelerating (engine braking) if it goes down to about 3-4k it stumbles almost like a misfire or like pre-detting or something it bucks bad. If I hold in the clutch it rolls just fine so I know its not some kind of screwed up rolling resistance.

It used to throttle wheely some in first second and third now it wont.

Its just not as fast smooth or powerful.

This is a list of mods my uncle made:
K&N Pods Airbox remover, Holeshot 5degree timing advance, JE Domed pistons, Overbore to 1216, Comp from 9.5:1 to 12:1, High Alltitude Holeshot stage 2 jet kit, Performance Valves and Springs, HPC Custom Headers tuned to bike, Holeshot Performance Exhaust, Barnett Clutch with heavy springs, Stage 2 holeshot Cams

I noticed that when I was checking the valve lash that with the timing rotors pickup over the sender only the intake cam lined up exactly. The exhaust was the tiniest bit off (mark not parallel with head surface) Is that normal?

Also when I was synching the carbs there was one time that it sounded right and the throttle response seemed right (like I remember it) but I was using a homemade manometer and having issues with making too large of adjustments and not giving the manometer long enough to catch up so I adjusted it out on accident. I got the vacuum on each pretty close to level but not perfect (about 1'' of ATF). Thats why I Am going to retry synching.

The oil level is good but needs changing.

[txbanditrydr]

WOW....  pretty nice set-up and waaaaaay beyond my expertise - not that I have any.

I'll touch on the ususal points of clean air filter, good gas and good gas delivery (aka: petcock).  Any bike that sits for 4 years is bound to have some issues.

Best of luck and post up what works as is might help someone else.

[DizzixX]

It appears to get gas just fine. It was stored with fresh gas and fuel stabilizer. Granted it sat longer than it should have. I put in fresh gas and the carbs were manually cleaned. On the first tank I ran through fuel system cleaner as well. I will probably do it again on the next one.

I have some worry that the petcock could be causing some kind of issue but I would think that flow obstruction would cause more problems in the higher rpm area. Granted it doesn't feel as powerful it does rev to the limiter and pulls hard, just not like it should. I may just rebuild it anyways.

The filter is clean but I think I will recharge it this weekend as well. Thanks for the input.

[DizzixX]

I re synched the carbs. Was helping a friend with his VFR though so I didnt have time to do anything but that.

Bad news-- they were out of synch

Good news -- Synching them again helped. It throttle wheelies again as any proper Bandit should.

This leads me to believe that either I did not correctly clearance the valves. Entirely possible. Or that they were not torqued down sufficiently. I think its most likely the former over the latter as the torque spec is low on those and I was worried I was over torquing them.

Depending on how it rides over the next week and how much the TPS is out of whack and some other things I may take a peak under the valve cover again.

[txbanditrydr]

 

Thanks for the  update.

[rider123]

After a valve adjustment the general consensus is that you should sync your carbs as adjusting the valves will change the intake and exhaust pressure ever so slightly.

And for what it's worth gas stabilizer is good really only for about 6 months not 4 years. The off the shelf stuff is designed to get you over the winter. IT will theoretically work longer but the gas is not going to be the same, it may work with cars but with the hot engine you have it's going to run crappily until fresh gas is put in. I'm assuming with your pistons you have to use premium gas due to the higher compression.