Author Topic: clip vs. rivet link (Read 8080 times)

JayRo · « **on:** January 29, 2006, 03:36:33 AM »

I don't know how much this subject has been talked about here, but I haven't seen any topics on it.
I am putting on a new chain when my rear sprocket decides to get here, and my chain came with a clip type master link. There are so many different varying opinions on the two types of master links that I am not sure if sticking with the clip type is the right choice. I sure as hell don't want to spend 90 bucks on a riveting tool that I will probably use once or twice. I never had a broken chain in my life and I don't want one, so how well can I trust a clip link?

Jason

2005B12S · « **Reply #1 on:** January 29, 2006, 10:49:17 AM »

Clip links work fine just make sure you install the clip in the right direction-it will be noted in the instructions. The load on the master link is in one direction so you want to have the open end of the clip in the right place.

Also, using a small dap of silicone on the clip will help keep it in place. Each time you lube the chain, do a visual inspection on the clip to ensure it is still in place.

Ride On, Ed
2005 GSF1200SZ
1983 GS750ED

Vlad · « **Reply #2 on:** January 29, 2006, 11:40:26 AM »

I had a chain break at 130Kph and it's not an experience I'd like to repeat. It broke at the link. The chain was old and stretched, but properly maintained and adjusted.I believe it wouldn't break that easy if it was riveted. Clip links are always the weakest links, it's that simple. Just my 2c.

2005B12S · « **Reply #3 on:** January 29, 2006, 07:07:59 PM »

Quote from: "vlad"

The chain was old and stretched, .

That could be the key phrase.

I will not go cheap on oil, tires, chains ect. and always replace at the first sign of being worn. Circlips have been around for a long time, if they were dangerous or unsafe, the chain manafacturers would have been sued into oblivion by now.

Red01 · « **Reply #4 on:** January 29, 2006, 07:24:41 PM »

I use a clip on my small bikes, but not on the B12. Some have used clip links on B12's with no problems, but I just feel better about having a riveted link.

If you don't wanna spring for the tool, you could use the clip link to get you to a shop and have them install a rivet link for you. I'm guessing after a couple of these type trips, you'd have paid for the tool though.

ray nielsen · « **Reply #5 on:** January 29, 2006, 08:25:30 PM »

One caveat re: a rivet type master link, be sure you maintain the proper indide to inside distance when pressing the side plate into place.

I measure the distance with an internal caliper at a nearby link then press the side plate into place to the same dimension -- than rivet the pins.

I measure the pin diameter before and after riveting and usually rivet so that the pin diameter increases about 0.010", figuring that gives a safe increase in diameter. Over many bikes and many years that has worked well for me with DID, RK and EK chains using rivet style master links.

On previous bikes I've had two clip type master links shed their clip but the side plate was pressed on and caused no problem. When I noticed it I stopped and got some small diameter safety wire and made a figure 8 around the pins until I coule get home and install a new clip. After that I always used RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) type sealant to cover the clip -- no problems then.

Daytona · « **Reply #6 on:** January 29, 2006, 10:16:27 PM »

Quote from: "JayRo"

I don't know how much this subject has been talked about here, but I haven't seen any topics on it.
I am putting on a new chain when my rear sprocket decides to get here, and my chain came with a clip type master link.

Hey are you sure you got the rite strength chain for your B12? Most won't send a clip link with a torque monster chain! [Don't try this @ home!! ] but after you get the link plate on, and set to the rite squeeze on the x rings (i use a sharp nose pr of vise grip pliers) Have a bud hold a solid item behind the link pins (thru your wheel) and a center punch with a point like this > i tap with a ball peen on ea one and its good to go. No problems so far and done it to mine and others! Now if i had a bike bud with the crimp tool i would use that in a heart beat instead.

Vlad · « **Reply #7 on:** January 29, 2006, 10:33:56 PM »

Quote from: "2005B12S"

Quote from: "vlad"
The chain was old and stretched, .

That could be the key phrase.

I will not go cheap on oil, tires, chains ect. and always replace at the first sign of being worn. Circlips have been around for a long time, if they were dangerous or unsafe, the chain manafacturers would have been sued into oblivion by now.

The chain still broke at the clip and not any other link and that's reason enough for me to take the rivet route next time. I agree with the rest, of course. If cheap just means changing it more often that's one thing -security is a different game and better is always better there.

JayRo · « **Reply #8 on:** January 29, 2006, 11:31:21 PM »

Quote

Hey are you sure you got the rite strength chain for your B12? Most won't send a clip link with a torque monster chain!

I got an RK530xso chain and it came with the clip. For someone who normally doesn't put more than a 2000 miles a year on the bike, I thought that chain would be fine.
Another thing is, wouldn't a clip link be stronger than a rivet link? Hold on before you call me a moron. My reasoning is that on a rivet link, the part of each pin that fits through the side plate has to be of a softer temper so it won't shatter when being peened over. So wouldn't that fact reduce the shear point of it as compared to a clip link pin, which its hardness is contsant throughout?
Just a though.

Jason

2005B12S · « **Reply #9 on:** January 29, 2006, 11:31:36 PM »

I have not replaced the drive chain on my '05 B12 yet, but have used many on my 100hp 16v 802cc '83 GS750 over the past 20+ years.

The Tsubaki Sigma 530 O-ring was a favorite along with several RK premium 530 chains. All were used with a circlip master link.

I have never lost a link or broke a chain in over 50,000 miles of hard street riding on 750cc and larger performance machines. I don't commute on my bike, all of them have been hot rod toys that are well maintained but ridden very hard. That said, I do not hesitate to spend premium dollars on equiptment and replace things when they first show wear. I personally have never had any issues with circlip chains.

I agree riveting is probably the most conserative method, I just don't see it as necessary given my past experience. Don't forget, circlip masters have been used for many years on GS1000/1100/1150 bikes and I do not recall seeing the obituaries full of instances where they failed.

Red01 · « **Reply #10 on:** January 30, 2006, 12:54:12 AM »

Quote from: "JayRo"

Another thing is, wouldn't a clip link be stronger than a rivet link? Hold on before you call me a moron. My reasoning is that on a rivet link, the part of each pin that fits through the side plate has to be of a softer temper so it won't shatter when being peened over. So wouldn't that fact reduce the shear point of it as compared to a clip link pin, which its hardness is contsant throughout?
Just a though.

The rivet type is pretty darn hard. They're peened with a tool that drives it's pointed tip into the hollow end of the pin to roll it over. The pin is only hollow at the end that needs peening.

According to DID's info, their rivet type links are the same strength as their chain, but their press-fit clip links are only 80% as strong and their loose-fit clip links are 65%.

aussiebandit · « **Reply #11 on:** January 30, 2006, 05:40:55 AM »

In general terms, if the manufacturer sees fit to use a particular component type or recommend a particular component, I see no reason to change it, unless your seeking to IMPROVE the bike (or car for that matter) to suit your riding style or budget. For instance, tyres, front forks, rear shock, brake pads or brakes etc. But IMHO why muck around with something that works....

Obviously the above relates to new or near new in good condition, not old bikes that NEED work done to them.

97RedBird · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2006, 04:58:04 PM »

I tried to use the clip and the clip fell off (had it in the right direction). Luckily the plate stayed on the chain until I inspected it next.

I rented a chain tool from a local shop and put on a rivet link. Now I don't have to check if the clip is still on the chain any more.

clip was okay for my dirt bike, but I put a lot of miles on my B6 and need the conveinence of knowing the rivet link won't come off.

smooth operator · « **Reply #13 on:** February 25, 2006, 09:00:30 AM »

I like the clips because I like to chage gearing. I have a couple different sprockets and chains. But I have lost clips too. So now instead of using the clips, I just saftey wire them and have no problems.

Bazza · « **Reply #14 on:** March 06, 2006, 04:20:05 AM »

I have a friend who has been a Motorcycle mechanic for 20 some years and will never install a clip link chain on a larger displacement bike.