Author Topic: clutch help? (Read 3734 times)

karl · « **on:** November 26, 2006, 05:50:26 PM »

went out on my bike today and decided to give it a bit of stick to see what it can do. only got it last weekend.

pulling off and changing gear is fine. at low revs, it pulls fine if i pull back on the throttle. but if i'm giving it some stick. when it gets to about 7k it revs like crazy, but dont pick up the speed at the same rate. but its fine before 7k.

i then did it with a little less throttle and it seemed ok?

could it be that my clutch plates are starting to get a little a
worn? my bike has about 30k on the clock.

if so, how hard will it be to replace the clutch myself?

thanks

karl · « **Reply #1 on:** November 27, 2006, 06:50:28 PM »

anyone?

aussiebandit · « **Reply #2 on:** November 27, 2006, 08:35:28 PM »

Karl, I've been described as 'Mechanically Inept' so don't take this as gospel, but it certainly sounds like the clutch is on the way out....

As for how hard it would be to do yourself, remember I'm 'Mechanically inept' and as such always take my bike to a mechanic for anything much more that an oil change.

Hopefully one of the real 'gurus' will be able to help.

theroamr · « **Reply #3 on:** November 27, 2006, 09:33:08 PM »

Go to holeshot.com and order a single barnett diaphram clutch spring. Alot of stock clutches slip at about that mileage. Try to fing the link to crazy carls barnett spring install.

karl · « **Reply #4 on:** November 28, 2006, 02:25:10 AM »

Quote from: "theroamr"

Go to holeshot.com and order a single barnett diaphram clutch spring. Alot of stock clutches slip at about that mileage. Try to fing the link to crazy carls barnett spring install.

just had a look oon that site. they only got clutch stuff for the 1200. or is it the same?

thanks for the replies

RUSS M8 · « **Reply #5 on:** November 28, 2006, 05:36:36 AM »

I have no experiance with the 750, but it should be pretty simple.
You remove the R/H engine cover (clutch cover).
This may mean moving footpegs ect.
You remove the clutch springs (don't know if the 750 has coils or diaphram spring?)
Remove the clutch plates.
Install all new plates (soak fibre plates in oil first)
Install new spring.
Rebuild bike (with new clutch cover gasket)

Now, it may be only 1 of the many parts listed above that needs replacing (ie, just the spring(s), or just the friction (fibre) plates). But I am one of those guys that does everything so I don't have to go back...

Or pay a workshop about an hor to do it for you.

Unless you are spinnin the tire!!!

karl · « **Reply #6 on:** November 28, 2006, 02:31:34 PM »

deffinately not spinning the tyre.

rung the shop today. for new plates and springs fitted, it'll be about, either 110 fitted for the b6 clutch plates or about 120 fitted for gixer 750 plates. dependent which it is.

so might just do that for the easiest. probably too if i end up buying the wrong clutch. lol

99er · « **Reply #7 on:** November 29, 2006, 10:46:03 AM »

I'll assume that the 750 has a cable clutch, right? The only 750s here in the states are those that we build ourselves. Make sure that there is adequate slack in the cable. If too tight, you'll see it when the bike hits its torque curve at full throttle. Sound familiar?
Other than that, adding a spring should be an easy thing and the clutch on the 600/1200 can be serviced with basic tools by anyone that can read a manual and has mechanical capability. The big thing to beware of, at least on the 1200, is to ensure that the oil pump gear is properly aligned to the basket. If she doesn't fit in all the way, don't force her! I expect the other models are same.
Marc/Atlanta

karl · « **Reply #8 on:** November 29, 2006, 02:37:44 PM »

Quote from: "99er"

I'll assume that the 750 has a cable clutch, right? The only 750s here in the states are those that we build ourselves. Make sure that there is adequate slack in the cable. If too tight, you'll see it when the bike hits its torque curve at full throttle. Sound familiar?
Other than that, adding a spring should be an easy thing and the clutch on the 600/1200 can be serviced with basic tools by anyone that can read a manual and has mechanical capability. The big thing to beware of, at least on the 1200, is to ensure that the oil pump gear is properly aligned to the basket. If she doesn't fit in all the way, don't force her! I expect the other models are same.
Marc/Atlanta

yeah, its soon as its under load. like you say on the torque curve, as it reaches 7k rpm(under full throttle.)

yeah it is a cable clutch. i've slakened it off. i've not noticed it slip to be honest, but then i've not had the chance to open her up.

will see how it goes, i'll try in the morning. might just get the friction plates and spring/s done anyway. its got 30k miles on the clock so would always be for the best interests anyway.

pmackie · « **Reply #9 on:** November 30, 2006, 03:29:09 PM »

Before changing the plates and springs, I would do the following:

1. Remove the cable,(or disconnect at both ends) lube it and make sure it pulls easily in both directions. If there is any binding at all, replace the cable.

2. Remove the Sprocket cover, clean and regrease the clutch cam. Make sure it work freely.

3. Make sure the "push rod" looks straight, has no bends or damage, and is clean.

The Bandit clutches are pretty good. 30k kms is not a lot unless the clutch has been abused a lot (lots of clutch it up wheelees?).

karl · « **Reply #10 on:** November 30, 2006, 08:31:52 PM »

yeah i thought about changing the clutch cable earlier tonight. might have a bash at it over the weekend.

thanks for everyones help!!