Author Topic: Clutch work? (Read 7737 times)

FreediverGa · « **on:** March 10, 2005, 02:51:06 AM »

I know I'm long way off from doing clutch work but usually mileage do you need to consider doing clutch work on your b6 and what kinda work is usually done? do just change out the friction plate and any other things that look overly warn ?

B12Teuton · « **Reply #1 on:** March 10, 2005, 04:32:08 PM »

You can go a long, long way before you even need to think about it. Maybe 50-100K miles if you don't beat on it.
B6 still has a clutch cable. Service (lube) that and keep it adjusted.

IF you ever need a clutch, you can buy a kit and replace all the parts relatively easily and not too expensive, considering how long they last.

Red01 · « **Reply #2 on:** March 10, 2005, 07:47:40 PM »

It's a helluva lot easier than doin' a clutch in a cage!

tacoman · « **Reply #3 on:** March 11, 2005, 04:10:16 PM »

Clutch life depends on the user. Motorcycles are easy, the repair books out there have good directions/photos. Usually you only need to replace the friction plates unless the drive plates warp or are under minimum thickness. If you are having clutch problems, check/replace the cable first. Rust & kinks can cause all kinds of problems.

B12MoJo · « **Reply #4 on:** March 22, 2005, 10:47:06 PM »

My 1200 started slipping at 12K miles on hard shifts... worn out, and still slips at about 20K now. Some day I'll replace the parts. DP makes a rebuild kit for the GSF1200 for around $140 retail... plus a clutch gasket so right at $160 for a fresh clutch if you don't need metal plates.

PitterB4 · « **Reply #5 on:** March 23, 2005, 09:00:18 AM »

Dumb question time.... Speaking of cable maintenance, what should be done? How do you lube it and with what? I don't have my manual here at work but I don't recall seeing that covered in there. I've replaced my clutch and throttle cables in the last year and and would like to keep them in good shape.

tacoman · « **Reply #6 on:** March 23, 2005, 01:33:40 PM »

Terrycable makes a little tool called the cable luber. You place it on the cable and it has a provision to stick an aerosol can extension tube in it and squirt away. You can also remove the cable, pull the cable from the sheath and clean/lube. I think the site is terrycable.com or most bike shops sell them.

FreediverGa · « **Reply #7 on:** March 24, 2005, 01:39:47 AM »

I notice that after putting my carbs back on that my throttle is just alittle stiff but I think it might be that got the tension messed up when I was hooking the cables back up on the carbs. I really don't notice it when riding but when you blip it with thumb and index finger it's alittle slow in returning. any ideas?

B12MoJo · « **Reply #8 on:** March 24, 2005, 01:59:08 AM »

I use a penetrating oil called Inox. It's in a good size plastic bottle with a needle on the end, so you don't have to remove cables to lube them... well except the choke. Otherwise just crack the control pod and shoot some down the housing. Takes all of five minutes. I lube/adjust mine every 2500 miles when I change the oil.

Oh yes, and don't forget when adjusting your cables' slack, adjust them with the bars straight, and test to see if the throttle returns at full lock right.

1. Adjust the outside cable (when sitting on the bike). This controls how far the throttle plates open. You want to just barely here the plates click once the throttle is wide open.
2. Adjust the idle cable (inside cable). This adjusts the slack or freeplay in the cable. this is somewhat user prefference. I like as minimal as possible, while still getting a quick return when at full lock right.
3. Lube. The cables don't usually need adjusting during service (once they're properly adjusted), but you must keep them well lubricated.

FreediverGa · « **Reply #9 on:** March 24, 2005, 02:39:46 AM »

yeah I did all that with at the throttle I was refering to when I reattacthed the cables to the carbs. I need to get the cable lube anyway !