2001 front brakes

[BanditoNova]

Recently I have noticed that sometimes my front brake lever seems slightly harder to pull (like I adjusted the dial or something) and then most of the the time it's 'normal'. I checked the fluid etc. - it's fine and so are the pads.....maybe time for new fluid?
It's an 01 with 26,000km and was mint when I bought it last year.

Any thoughts anyone?

[PaulVS]

I think you nailed it...

Fluid replacement would be first on my list.

[BanditoNova]

Thanks for the confirmation. Now I come to think of it, the fluid was a little muddy.

[Red01]

It should be changed every couple of years, but it is commonly overlooked by many.

[NarkolepticBandit600S]

   You got it!!!  Ironically this past weekend I changed my fluid for the front master cylinder.  I was having the same problem, it was getting really hard to pull the break lever and it was starting to really anoy me.  I thought a rebuild was in order so I priced the piston thats in the master cylinder and almost bought it.  But I just decided to take it appart and see if the seals were bad or broken down.  Verdict was every thing looked good I just cleaned it up and put it back with bran new fluid, and BAM!!!

The pull is sweet now, its smooth and easy, also try to drain some of the old fluid out of the calipers as well, cause it will obviously make eveything smoother.

[BanditoNova]

Yeah I was just going to bleed all the old fluid out (along with rears and clutch too I guess). Quick question: can I keep the top off the master cylinder while pumping the brake lever or will I get fluid shooting up everywhere like a cars master cyl.? Maybe just 'pump slowly'?


Man, this post is going downhill fast . . . 

[Red01]

Best to put the cap back on when doing it manually.

[NarkolepticBandit600S]

I did do the bleeding with the cap and bladder off... just pumped slow..once you loosten the bleed screw it is pretty much gravity thats doing most of the work....but I did notice that after a full pull of the break lever that it sucked a little air back in the bleed screw. So I just tightened it WHILE I was pulling the breal lever...so I didnt get any air back in the caliper piston.  One thing to keep in mind is that even though this is DOT 4 fluid...It still will eat paint, So if you have any spills and it gets on you paint...anywhere, after a day or so it will bubble the paint. So do a thurough cleaning or just wash your bike when your all done.

[BanditoNova]

Cheers for the info.....I was digging around in the bottom of my tool box and guess what I had forgotten I had - one of those plastic Magic Bleeders with the canister! Left over from the mechanic days.

[BanditoNova]

Brakes/Clutch fluid replaced & bled. Front brake lever is quite firm and responsive now!

[Red01]

Brakes/Clutch fluid replaced & bled. Front brake lever is quite firm and responsive now!

        

[gringostd]

I've had an infuriating issue with my 2001 since I bought it a year ago at 15k miles. It has a serious modulation when I apply the front brakes. A very good mechanic diagnosed it as warped rotors, so that's where we started. Still there. With a dial indicator clamped to the fork tube, we've got about 6 thousands of run-out on both sides - seems ok to me. The wheel bearings are fine. What am I missing? It's driving me crazy and I'm about to leave on a cross-country ride. Hesitant to do it with psychotic front brakes.

Thanks for any advice.

[Red01]

Is your front tire cupped or out of balance?  That can cause pulsing on the brakes.