LOTS of fuel in the case.

[bgrundy]

So it's Christmas day in Maryland and the weather is nice (50+ and sunny), so I thought I'd go for a ride.

I go out to the garage and the first thing I see is my Bandit with the clear clutch cover window full to the top!  Not talking about the oil sighting window, but the full clutch cover window.  Three quarters to the top!

I've had this problem before, and in fact you can see how high the level is in these pics I previously posted:

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=9652.0

See how high the level is there (bottom picture)?  I changed the oil after that and it was fine for a month or so, but now that the bike's been sitting for a month and a half, the window has filled.  The petcock is in the "on" position.  This is a 2001 1200.  Jetted with a renegade pipe.

Does anyone know what can cause this?  It seems as though it gets worse just sitting.  Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. 

[bgrundy]

Hmmm...I just noticed the "2G Petcock" thread.  I wonder if that's my answer? 

Worth a shot?

[Red01]

For you to get that much gas in the motor, you've got to have two problems:

1) The petcock is leaking
2) float needle & seat on at least one carb is not shutting off fuel

[B6mick]

Number 2, could just about bet your 1st born.

Carbs have been disturbed for the jet kit. I've found can be a cause. Also another cause can be the dye's in the fuel(used to Identify its grade), can if let sitting turns to slurry that can interferr with the needle and its seat.

[Rocketjock]

Ya but, just think how clean your cylinders are!

[CWO4GUNNER]

I keep telling people, If you have to winterized install an inline manual shut off valve. Then turn the manual fuel valve off, add your fuel stabilizer and then start the bike and run the engine dry using the choke until the bowels and jets are dry. Then next time you'll be able to start it up easily every time.

[bgrundy]

Thanks for all the info.

So, I'm going to either install a new petcock or a shutoff valve (sound advice, CWO4GUNNER).

As far as the float needle & seat goes, is there an easy fix for this?  By "easy" I mean throw it against a wall, or hit it with a hammer.  My experience with carbs is limited to cutting them from my diet.

Seriously...What can I do to solve the problem at the carbs?  Or is this something that can be held to a minimum with a better petcock or a shutoff valve?  I looked at one from Motion Pro that is only $13.95.  So that's easy enough.

I really appreciate the valuable input.

Barry

[RDUBandit]

I have a 2nd Gen Bandit ('04), and the OEM petcock doesn't have an "off" postition.  Just "on," "reserve," and "prime."  Am I missing something for moving the OEM petcock to the "off" position?

[Red01]

No, Dave, you're not missing anything. The OEM petcock has no manual "OFF" position. It is vacuum operated and turns itself off when the engine isn't running in the "ON" and "RES" positions. In the "PRI" position it's on all the time.

I don't think the OEM petcock is so bad everyone should change them if they winterize their bike, but if you have a petcock problem, I'd seriously consider a manual one as a replacement.  This isn't going to cure a faulty needle & seat, but for one with minor issues, just turning the fuel off when you're done riding will keep the crankcase from filling with fuel.

You might be able to "cure" a sticky needle & seat with a few taps with a screwdriver handle, but if the proble persists, the only sure way to fix it is to take them apart.

[CWO4GUNNER]

He's right, a manual shut off valve is not a cure for a carb that needs cleaning but rather goes a very long way in preventing serious varnish build up and glazing of pilot jets for any type of long storage (2-4 months). When I lived in Virginia for 6 years it made the difference in just one season between carburetted toy's and equipment that worked next spring or did not work, it was that simple.

[bgrundy]

By the way...Will that much gas in the case ruin the clutch plates?  It's been sat there for weeks before I noticed.  The clutch is 3/4 covered with fuel/oil mix.

[Red01]

Good question... It'll depend on how thin the oil got from the gas.  I'd probably just drain the contaminated oil and put in fresh and hope for the best and change the plates only if things didn't work out.

[bgrundy]

Good question... It'll depend on how thin the oil got from the gas.  I'd probably just drain the contaminated oil and put in fresh and hope for the best and change the plates only if things didn't work out.

Thanks.  The mix looks pretty thin.  I'm thinking of draining and filling as much as possible with oil (6-8 quarts...cheaper stuff) and then letting it sit for a day or so before draining again and filling with my normal blend.  Maybe try and "wash" or soak some of the fuel away.

I took the tank off yesterday and the petcock is dripping pretty steadily.  Garbage.

[pmackie]

Hey Bgrundy

I wouldn't expect you to have any clutch plate problems, nor do I think it is necessary to "completely fill" and drain the case. Just get the contaiminated oil out of there and put the correct amount of new stuff in.

The risk comes from running the bike with the low vis mixture in there, which you DON"T want to do. After the oil change, any residue of light ends from the gasoline will be driven off in your first good ride.

Remember to drain/clean the airbox as much as you can (looking at the pictures, it looks like you still have a factory airbox, not pods) as it may have fuel in it as well, and if so, check and change the air filter, since once it gets soaked, its performance in passing air goes way down.

It's not TOO hard to remove the carbs and clean them, but is a PIA if you haven't done it before. You may want to consider an inline fuel filter, if you don't have one, since usually needle valves get stuck with something that came down from the tank.

[CWO4GUNNER]

Ideal to replace any contaminated (water/fuel) oil ASAP in my book.