Author Topic: Removing rusted studs from Exhaust header - Help! (Read 5148 times)

Wizz!!! · « **on:** February 22, 2006, 10:43:47 AM »

Going back to a different thread about a rusted collector box on my downpipes.

http://forums.banditalley.net/viewtopic.php?p=32917#32917

I now have to remove the downpipes from my 1998 Bandit 1200.

All of the studs were relatively easy to remove, EXCEPT ONE!!!.

One of the studs on the inner downpipes was so rusted that an allen key just had no grip what so ever.

I don't think a stud remover socket will fit over it because it is so close to the downpipe.

Has anyone got a sure fire way of removing the stud without drilling it?

I think the moral of this story is to replace them before they get into this state! Especially if you live in damp old Blighty.

jlewis50 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 23, 2006, 08:46:57 AM »

Try these tips and see if they will help:
Get a high quality hex key socket of the correct size first thing.
1. Spray on a penetrating oil to the stud where it enters the block. Get the oil on the threads where they enter the head.
2. Try tightening the offending stud then loosing it after the oil has set overnight.
3. Take a hammer and a socket extension and hit the head of the stud repeatedly with a firm hit. You aren't driving spikes here so use a little caution. You want to breat the rust scale.
4. After doing all of this place more penetrating oil on the stud and let set again. Do this for a couple of days and I think you can get it out.
5. Dont force the stud or you will break it.
6. Additionally I would try some direct heat from a propane torch on the stud. This will do the trick some times.

gearset01 · « **Reply #2 on:** February 23, 2006, 11:08:14 AM »

Yes penatrating oil is the way to go, I encounter the very same scenario on some of the older equipment I service. For quick penetration heat the bolt up first with a small torch, then while its still hot spray the bolt with Blaster or alike penatrating oil. It will smoke like crazy wear saftey glasses but the heat draws the oil into the threads ASAP. If the allen bolt opening is elongated "stripped" take a punch with head diameter that is similar to the diameter of the bolt strike firmly and slightly pean over the edges of the head this will make the allen opening shrink. Take your correct allen "socket" and re establish the fit by tapping it into the bolt, use the shortest extension possible to eliminate flex when removing once every thing has cooled down. If the allen head is lost and all you have is the stud left with the header flange non removable you will have to drill enough to remove the header. Leave a little of the stud so you can use needle nose vise grips.
PIN

Wizz!!! · « **Reply #3 on:** February 28, 2006, 06:17:26 AM »

Thanks for all the suggestions,

The solution was to weld another bolt into the head of the stud.

It was relatively easy to remove, thanks to a weeks worth of penetrating oil as well.

I'm sure all the other suggestion could have worked if the forks and radiator weren't in the way.

Downpipes are off and are being repaired at a local welders.

Hopefully the bike will be on the road again by the end of the week.