Author Topic: Bar-end weights won't screw back (solved) New issue (solved) (Read 6462 times)

NomisQC · « **on:** October 10, 2007, 11:53:53 PM »

Both issues solved !

Thanks !

Red01 · « **Reply #1 on:** October 11, 2007, 12:16:14 AM »

Did you unscrew the bar-end screw all the way out? If you did, that's your mistake. You're just supposed to loosen them and pull the whole assy out. If you did this, your new mission is to find something (like a dental pick, or a scribe with a hooked end) to fish the other half of the bar-end out of the bar so you can put it back together.

pmackie · « **Reply #2 on:** October 11, 2007, 12:49:16 AM »

Yup...what Red said...start fishing!!

My '02 600 uses phillips screws for the bar ends as well, and I'm pretty sure my buddys '03 1200 has phillips as well. Aftermarket stuff may well be allen head.

NomisQC · « **Reply #3 on:** October 11, 2007, 03:13:52 AM »

Doh !

I thought something was fixed inside the handlebars so we could screw the bar-ends in it...

Did not know about the whole pullling out thing...

Already corrected my mistake !!

Thanks guys !

I ran into another problem however. I moved my right handle switchbox to fit the new grips and broke the plastic pin holding it in place...now, no matter how hard I turn the screws, it will still move around when firmly pushed on...is there a way to fix that ?

pmackie · « **Reply #4 on:** October 11, 2007, 11:11:56 AM »

A short term fix would be to add some friction tape (like hockey tape) to the bar under the area where the switch screws on.

Red01 · « **Reply #5 on:** October 11, 2007, 11:48:12 AM »

Quote from: "pmackie"

A short term fix would be to add some friction tape (like hockey tape) to the bar under the area where the switch screws on.

Short term? Heck, that works as a long-term fix, too.

Just put new bars on my son's B12 a few weeks ago and rather than risk drilling the locating hole in the wrong place, we just broke the pins off and used a wrap of wide electrical tape.

I can't really think of a better fix - short of replacing the switch housing.

NomisQC · « **Reply #6 on:** October 11, 2007, 07:24:16 PM »

Hockey tape worked just fine !!!

Thanks again guys...I can't tell you how much you've been useful throughout the whole process...

I can't wait to get my Leo Vince so my bike is complete (for the moment at least)

I don't think I will go up to a stage 2 so I was wondering what update, whether it's aesthetics or performance, I should do next.

PaulVS · « **Reply #7 on:** October 11, 2007, 10:49:43 PM »

Quote from: "nomisqc"

I was wondering what update, whether it's aesthetics or performance, I should do next.

It's my opinion that the tires and suspension are the most lacking areas of the Bandit. Much more improvement can be had with upgrades there than the jet kit/slip-on upgrades gave you.

The stock Macadam tires are pure crap. Go with Pirelli Diablo Stradas or Shinko Advance 005's and you will be amazed at the improvement in the handling arena.

As far as suspension goes...

A rear shock from a Hayabusa (found aplenty on Ebay for under $50) and progressive front springs are the cheap upgrade... total cost around $120.

A Progressive or Ohlins rear shock and Race Tech Gold front valves/springs is the cat's meow. Total cost around $600-$900 depending on which rear shock you get.

EDIT: Another item on the 'to-do' list would be stainless steel brake lines and Carbone Lorraine brake pads.

NomisQC · « **Reply #8 on:** October 12, 2007, 12:33:45 AM »

I was planning on putting on a set of Michelin Pilot Power next spring as I can get them for a decent price around here...

I'll take a look into the suspension suggestion !

Thanks !

chupacabra · « **Reply #9 on:** October 12, 2007, 07:16:24 AM »

Anyone hear anything good or bad about SonicSprings?

pmackie · « **Reply #10 on:** October 12, 2007, 01:45:34 PM »

I'm with PaulVS here...

My list would (and did) include:
1. Progressive or Race Tech front springs, c/w oil change. I used Progressive springs and 20% SAE 20 mixed with 80% SAE 10W fork oil to raise the viscosity slightly.
2. Rear Shock - I went the very low cost route and put a B12 shock in my 600, mostly for the stiffer spring, but the 'busa shock is a way better upgrade.
3. Brakes - I used EBC HH pads (more initial bite) and SS lines (more force/better feel) to update the little 600. Fresh brake fluid keeps things working better.
4 Tires - the factory fitted Bridgestone BT-86 in the little 600, which were decent. I have used BT-20/21's as well as Pilot Roads. I like the Pilot Roads best so far...

Then I went the jetting route, and I am looking at installing a slip-on this winter.

NomisQC · « **Reply #11 on:** October 12, 2007, 07:41:41 PM »

Please see my new topic about the Rear shock mod:

Rear Shock Modification Topic

Thanks !