Author Topic: Steps for Cam Chain Tensioner removal, inspection, and re-assembly?  (Read 7236 times)

Offline bandit01

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2004 Bandit 1200.  I have adjusted my valves and the chain felt fine while the cover was off.  I adjusted all to middle of the range.  On re-assembly it sounds at times like I either have a valve out, or the tensioner is stuck.  I have the gasket and want to inspect it but have not found a good set of removal and re-assembly instructions here.   I was hoping that someone with experience could weigh in.  My plan was to put the bike on the center stand in gear, rotate the wheel until I feel compression (I don't want to remove signal cover or plugs) to tighten the chain, and remove the tensioner and inspect.

Re-assembly is what I am most concerned with.  I don't want to put it back in and not have the proper tension on the chain.   Any tips?

Offline txbanditrydr

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Re: Steps for Cam Chain Tensioner removal, inspection, and re-assembly?
« Reply #1 on: September 12, 2012, 11:44:51 PM »
When you remove the stock tensioner it will release itself from the present point so you won't really know how much travel you had left.  Re-insert the tensioner, take long handled Allen wrench, and push the tensioner in until you can no longer hear the clicks of the ratcheting notches....  easy peasy.  When the cam chain guides get worn the stock tensioner doesn't have enough spring force to go to the last few notches so pushing it with the wrench gets that last bit out of it.  After that you can opt for a manual tensioner to gain some time before having to split the engine cases to replace that main guide.

Hope this helps.

'01 B600S ... sold
'05 B1200S ... Top 20 mods... #20 through #2 - All The Usual Ones, Yada, Yada  & #1... 150,000+ Miles and Counting!!!!

Offline bandit01

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Re: Steps for Cam Chain Tensioner removal, inspection, and re-assembly?
« Reply #2 on: September 14, 2012, 05:20:20 PM »
Thanks for the tips.

I'm assuming that the unit comes out as one when loosening the two side screws, and NOT the big nut in the middle first.  I could just undo the middle bolt and just take the spring assembly out and push the plunger back in further if I was sure it was not stuck, correct?  I'd rather take the entire thing out, dis-assemble/clean/inspect, and reinstall since I have the gasket anyway. 

I have seen it said you can install a washer or two on the other side of the spring to add tension to it and help it get to those last few clicks easier.  Thoughts?

Is it possible to over tighten the chain by pushing on the tensioner too hard?