Tearing it all down, forks, brakes, rear shock, rear brakes

[Jason F.]

So the little minor wear issues I have been living with on my 96 B6 have finally added up and come to a head.

I have decided to tear it all down and do a massive rebuild session. I need to rebuild the front forks and upgrade the springs as well as replace or rebuild the rear shock. I also need to replace all the pads and bleed the brakes front and rear. I will be installing stainless lines at the same time. I need a new rear tire so that is ordered. I might as well do some bearings while I have it all down as well.

So my questions are.

Besides Fork Oil and Fork Dust seals what else is needed to replace and what numbers are we talking about on this diagram http://www.bikebandit.com/assets/schematics/Suzuki/SU0116_055.gif so I can be sure I have the right things on order.

Anyone happen to have a part number handy for heavier or progressive front springs?

And the big question on technical data. Does any one have the center to center distance of the front fork tubes for the B6 and the B12? I am talking physical distance apart. I would also like to know the physical differences in the B6 and B12 upper and lower triple clamps along with the lower tube sections i.e. the brake mount points and axle/pinch bolt differences. Any difference in geometry?

I have access to a good pair of B12 forks I can steal or plunder parts from if I need them to rebuild my forks so I am curious if anything might be of use.

[Red01]

The B6 OEM shock is not rebuildable, it's a throw-away design.

Besides fork oil and dust seals (#7), you'll want to replace the oil seals (#5).

Progressive's front springs for the 1G B6 have the p/n 11-1126.
Race Tech's p/n is FRSP S3534 (they also offer custom springs designed just for your weight and riding style).  Race Tech also offers a cartridge emulator kit, p/n FEGV S4101 and sells the oil, and seals.

The internal design of the B6 & B12 fork is totally different (damper rod vs cartridge).  The B6 fork has 41mm dia in the triple clamps and the B12 is 43mm.  The caliper designs and they way they mount are totally different, too.  You can swap an entire B12 front end onto a B6, but that would need to include the brake calipers & rotors (they're bigger), too.  You can either use B12 triples or bore out the B6 triples the extra 2mm.

[Jason F.]

I had seriously considered just using the B12 forks as boring the triple trees would not be a problem. The physical size difference is not an issue but if there are any major changes in spacing i.e. width between the centers of the fork tubes themselves it would make it slightly more difficult to do. Adapting the brakes would not be much of an issue as well. In fact the further the mounts are on the lower tubes for the b6 and the b12 the better as it would be easier to fabricate mounts. If they are simply a few thousandths of an inch different than it becomes a more of a pain.

I might just pick up the B12 forks so I can measure a few things and if they are usable fine. If not they will be cheap enough I can just get rid of them on ebay.

Thanks for the other data. Anything besides those oil and dust seals? I was thinking bushings as well may be needed. That looks like part 3 if I am not mistaken.

[Red01]

Anything besides those oil and dust seals? I was thinking bushings as well may be needed. That looks like part 3 if I am not mistaken.

Don't forget the oil seals!  (part #5)  They're more important than the dust seals - especially if they're leaking now.

[B6mick]

The B6 OEM shock is not rebuildable, it's a throw-away design.

Sorry Red for being a bit of a nit picker....
The B6 OEM shock is rebuildable, have just taken mine in to a place here in OZ, Kooztune, they is doing my upgrade, BTW just happen to be one of my customers, don't ya just hate networking . For any of the Oz riders here is thier site. http://www.krooztune.com/race_team