Which rear shock option

[BanditAllan]

This for those who have checked this out before and done the research. For a 98 1200 Bandit, what upgrades can be done to the rear shock in terms of valving/spring rates.
If this isnt really worth doing, then is there a 'drop in' shock from another Suzuki bike that will give better performance with improved compression/rebound damping rates???
Since i dont have a bunch of other Suzuki rear shock units to try or test, how about the ones from a GSXR 1000 or a Busa..
I'm looking for a rear shock with more performance "feel" since the stock one is too soft overall for agressive riding.

[Red01]

I take it you didn't look in the FAQ? 

http://forums.banditalley.net/index.php?topic=231.0

[BanditAllan]

I did, but all that was posted was to offer a bunch of options, from which it APPEARS the early to mid 90s GSXR750 shock is the closest one to use.
I'm now going about doing my own research on it.

[Red01]

That's cuz that's the one that fits best.
There's also a chart in there that shows the specs on other shocks, but it's up to you to know to figure out if the mounting is correct and if there might be interferance issues (a notable concern since most late model sport bikes have piggyback reserviors and the Bandit's design didn't account for this.

[China Greg]

I purchased a Progressive 420 shock for about $375 on EBay last Fall... mounted it this Spring. My first impression was that the thing was STIFF.. even set on softest setting for pre-load and rebound.
But now I have just returned from a 3000 mile sport tour across the Southeast US, (including The Dragon at Deal's Gap). My feeling now is that the shock gives a much more precise feeling, including very good rebound dampening... which the stock shock never had much of at all. I think the Prog. shock loosened up a little after some time on the highway

I have a Gold-Valve Emulator valving kit in the front, and now I really like the handling of the bike.... much more controllable and precise over bumps and in corners (doesn't wallow now)... and not so harsh as I first thought... but don't expect a Gold Wing-plush ride!
 
It ran across the 318 curves at Deals Gap with great control.

[BanditAllan]

Thanks for your feedback China Greg, to further add to my plan i recently got a 95 GSXR 750 rr shock which i plan to fully dissasemble and inspect for any internal issues (wear etc). Physically on the exterior it looks decent, but ill know more once ive gone through it completely.
A rebuild and some new nitrogen in stock form will be the first test to see what it feels like on the Bandit, then i'll go onwards from there.
Its not like it was a big spending spree either as these complete rr units show up on fleabay for about $40.00
I know the front end needs some work too, but for now i'm dealing with the more severe wallowing rear end issue.

[China Greg]

I actually DID buy a 1992 (?) GSX750 shock and mount it on my previous 1st Gen B12. I ran that shock for a while before selling the bike and getting my "fresh" B12.

The GSXR shock is longer than B12 stock, which changes the steering angle in front..makes it a little quicker steering, if thats what your after...
but the shock I received had it's rebound-dampener screw locked-up, so I couldn't adjust it.

In any case, what I found was an "imprecise steering" characteristic on the highway... where the front end seemed to oscillate or weave very very slightly.. just perceptible enough to be sure it was real, and just annoying. Might have been due to the longer shock. I'll be interested in hearing if you encounter anything similar.

My current B12 with a Progressive shock has a TINY bit of looseness at SLOW speeds, like approaching stoplights, it needs to be "tended to" slightly to keep a nice straight line. I don't think it's the head bearing adjustment (but I'll have to check that, as I just completed a 3000 miles trip).

[BanditAllan]

Yes the shock may be slightly longer but if you remove the lower yoke and thread up the shaft a bit you can regain the stock lenght. Naturally the stock spring preload setting will have to move up the body threads by the same amount to have a stock setting to start from.
Along with this you will have to remove the same amount from the pintle shaft thats sits inside the main one so your dial settings are not off from their adjustment range as well.
Ok did imention i was re-engineering the shock unit,LOl well thats basically what it comes down to but its a great place to start.
At least its a shock with adjustable compression and rebound damping.

[China Greg]

Wow! You sure know a lot more than me about shock design and internals..
Good luck! Let us know if you experience any handling changes, pro or con.

[00Bandit600sOC]

i installed a 2005 gsxr 1000 SHOWA rear shock on my 2000 B6 today,,,,,,easy ....hardest part was cracking the lock nuts with hand tools.....Love that yellow spring...much better shock than stock....

[China Greg]

An old thread.... needs updating !

My Progressive 420 started SQUEAKING heavily and I found the seal had blown out. This was within one year of purchase. I wonder whether the 420 spring... WAAYY too stiff even for my 230-pound fat body... (jar your back teeth loose when hitting a sharp freeway joint), may have been one of the causes.
I expect to have the shock rebuilt by Progressive... at a cost of about $125. Progressive does NOT have a softer spring.
I'm going to post a new thread with all the info I've gathered on this.... check the BBS board.

[China Greg]

Okay... scratch that.... I'll post my "shock" reply here:

Spring to replace the Progressive 420 Brick:  Hyperco says they have a 6" free length spring, in weights of 350, 450, 500, 500, 550, and 600+. $81 through performanceshock.com . Problem is that the stock B12 spring is, like, 6.75" in length... so not sure yet if it will fit. Also, my Prog. 420 spring says "400-450 lbs" on it... so not sure what the Hyperco should be.

Pesnke makes two shocks that would fit: a "sport" shock with NO reservoir and NO compression damping adjustment:  $575
Penske 8983 shock, with reservoir and full adjustments:  $769

Ohlins... available, buit prices range from $900 to $1100. Too rich for my blood, although I love that yellow spring.

Older GSXR / Hyabusa shocks: I tried a 1992 (?) GSXR 750 shock before; it was okay, but was longer than stock and altered my steering... gave me an odd, low-frequency front-end shimmy, especially on the highway. Be careful: some shocks that actually fit are quite longer than stock; be prepared for substantial changes in handling... including possibly making your front end more twitchy or unstablee.
I'm also interested in info regarding GSXR fronont-end swaps for the B12. Anyone got experience with this?

[smooth operator]

 Try a congent shock,I already have a Works Performance shock on mine but if I didn't or if I had the $ to Spend I'd go with a Cngent w/ adjustable ride hieght. Go to motocd.com  Rick was a member on this forum,I had him sevice my Works Performance shock.

[BanditAllan]

I also ended up getting an 01 Bandit rear shock recently to play with for the viscosity and internal settings of the valve stack.
The 05 Gixxer 1000 rear shock sounds like a great idea as well since it should be a percentage stiffer all around than the Bandit ones mainly since that bikes designed for more aggressive high speed riding style.
Another thing to remember is the linkage ratios and the bikes weight when attempting to retrofit any shock. Yes i know you can get alternate springs etc but wouldnt it be nice to get a shock and just service and revalve if need be it for a near perfect fit without having to start buying more parts.

[China Greg]

Allan-
I don't know about anyone else here... but although I'm  a decent backyard mechanic, I have no knowledge or experience with opening shocks and re-structuring them.

I'll have to buy something off the shelf, and do whatever adjustments are possible from the outside.