Author Topic: Won't start. Ignition switch problem? (Read 28748 times)

ridenclimb · « **on:** April 29, 2006, 04:58:51 PM »

Okay, someone help me solve the mystery of why my bike won’t start.

The bike is a 2001 Suzuki Bandit 1200S with about 40k miles. When I put the key in the gauge needles flip right and left as usual, the neutral light works, brake lights and horn work, the headlights work (low and high) as do the turn signals. However when I press the starter switch NOTHING happens. Don't even hear the starter relay clicking. Pulled the starter relay out and tested it as described in the maintenance book and it clicks just fine so the relay itself was not the issue. It is not getting power.

Then I pulled the fairings off and disconnected the wiring harness for the ignition switch. According to the wiring diagram I tested the continuity of the appropriate pairs of wires using a continuity tester. Orange to red wire checked out fine as did the grey to the brown. However when I tested the Orange/Red to the Black/White there was no continuity but looks as if there should be from the wiring diagram.

Also the sidestand switch was negative for continuity. Ran a jumper to bypass the switch but the bike would still not start.

Can someone help me out here? Am I screwed? Do I have to replace the ignition switch? I hope not because it looks like a serious pain in the ass.

If it turns out I do have to replace it is there any way to bypass the bad connection so that I can get the bike to start and ride it to the dealer to have them do it. I have done pretty extensive work on my bike including valve clearance checks, chain and sprocket replacement, brake pad replacement, flushing of hydraulic fluids, etc but when it comes to electrical stuff I have almost no experience.

Any and all help greatly appreciated. Good weather is finally here and I can't ride. :(

Thanks

David

luv_2_wheels · « **Reply #1 on:** April 30, 2006, 12:39:23 AM »

David,
Just friday, I came across the exact same symptoms on my '99 1200 (~20K miles).
It turned out to be a bad switch in the clutch lever. I don't know what the 2001 models are like but try shorting
out the two wires that go to the clutch lever and
see if starts then. The switch had too much play in it to
work properly. I guess i have been switching gears to much :)

-jp

ridenclimb · « **Reply #2 on:** April 30, 2006, 08:24:30 AM »

Hi JP,

Will try shorting the clutch lever wires but I testeed the contunuity of the clutch lever switch already so I don't think that is the problem. Any other guesses?

D

Red01 · « **Reply #3 on:** April 30, 2006, 04:06:42 PM »

Have you tried jumping straight to the starter to be sure the starter works?

Banditboy600 · « **Reply #4 on:** April 30, 2006, 05:24:41 PM »

Paul
I know David by passed the battery (because it is the original battery) and jumped from his car to the positive battery lead, still not even a click.

ridenclimb · « **Reply #5 on:** April 30, 2006, 11:09:13 PM »

Hi Paul,

Thanks for the suggestion. I had the same thought and already tried jumping from the new battery straight to the starter thus bypassing the starter relay and when I do that the starter turns over fine. ( don't think Kevin understood exactly what you are talking about) I also tested the starter relay as I mentioned in my original post and I know it is not the relay. It is just not getting power hence my test of the iginition switch and my worry about the lack of continuity where there should be. :(((

I hate being deprived of riding at such a beautiful time of year and have to get this fixed soon so I can get a little saddle time before my trip south to NC,TN,GA. Might have to actually pay the dealer to take care of this one. Argh!!!!! Only consolation is that I am having the trouble now and not when I am 1k miles from home.

However, I have not totally given up and am still looking for suggestions. Any other thoughts?

Thanks,

David

Red01 · « **Reply #6 on:** May 01, 2006, 10:54:48 AM »

Rather than checking for continuity, have you tried checking for voltage at each side of each component in the circuit to be sure enough juice is flowing where it is supposed to?

You've gotta be missing something if you know the starter works.

99er · « **Reply #7 on:** May 01, 2006, 11:21:52 AM »

There's not much to it, if it's the same as my '99 schematic. Clutch switch, sidestand switch, sidestand and starter relays. If the starter button has 12V on one side with ignition on, the ignition switch should be good. The sidestand switch is a big failure item, at least on the older machines. As I remember when making the auto-shift circuit, enabling the sidestand switch will open the relay and remove ignition power. Do you have a schematic? I'd bypass each switch and relay one-by-one until the failure is isolated.
Marc/Atlanta

ridenclimb · « **Reply #8 on:** May 03, 2006, 10:37:15 AM »

I tested the clutch switch and that checked out fine. The sidestand switch looked faulty ( no continutiy when the kickstand was up) and I ran a jumper on that. Still wouldn't start. Tried jumping the three pairs of wires at the ignition switch but it's pretty tight to get six alligator clips into that little harness connection. Two clips touched that shouldn't - sparks - many expletives - should have listtened to the little voice that told me to go find the electirical tape to insulate the clips but I was impatient. Blew main 30 amp fuse and very pissed so I left if for another day.

This is looking more and more like a job I should just pay someone to do. I have to leave for a trip in a few weeks and don't have time to deal with it. Damn damn damn!!!

Will let you all know how it turns out and what it turns out to be so I can maybe save someone else from all the headscratching and cursing.

David

Daytona · « **Reply #9 on:** May 03, 2006, 11:02:53 AM »

Ok I'm insulting you! But got to ask! the kill switch, is in the run position?? Rite!! My 98 did some on & off strange stuff, like sluggish starts etc but lights seemed bright. Got a top of the line mega ?? battery and never had a prob after. The battery can show as good if volts are checked, this means nothing though! Amps rule the process.

ridenclimb · « **Reply #10 on:** May 03, 2006, 11:29:49 AM »

Yes I made sure the kill switch was in the run position. Was one of the first things I checked. Also I replaced the battery with a brand new one from the dealer. Also checked the volts on the new battery before I replaced it and it was fine. Battery is not the problem.

Thanks for the suggestion though.

David

Daytona · « **Reply #11 on:** May 03, 2006, 11:55:27 AM »

Ok sorry but had to ask! I find these sort of problems? kinda enjoyable on the job where i'm pd to fix em anyway! Ohms meter if its a good one is a big help. Most probs like this i've found is defective spliced wire in oem harness, shorted or open circuits do to some one applying + to - or - to + anyway they shouldn't have mucked with it or just a corroded connection. Your problem seems to be the starter relay that your bar sw controls. Can you make it crank from the relay? this can be + or - from switch.

99er · « **Reply #12 on:** May 03, 2006, 11:55:35 AM »

If I remember correctly, the sidestand switch when up is OPEN. If you short it, the bike will not start in gear.

If all checks are good, your ignitor box is defective. Contact a salvage yard and get one - pricey litle things.
Marc/Atlanta

Daytona · « **Reply #13 on:** May 03, 2006, 12:08:57 PM »

Quote from: "99er"

If I remember correctly, the sidestand switch when up is OPEN. If you short it, the bike will not start in gear.

Marc/Atlanta

Like 99er said! also New battery???! back to basics! good connections, all leads connected to correct terminals (i think its dummy proof on the bandit) Is it for sure the signal from the bar sw is +? They use - in many cases! Now turn off the PC and get a bud that has A CLEAR HEAD TO FIND IT! Works every time!

99er · « **Reply #14 on:** May 03, 2006, 12:13:23 PM »

I forgot to mention - check the circuitry, and ignitor by push starting it. If it kicks when popping second gear down a hill and can be ridden, you've ruled-out the ignitor. do you have a factory or Haynes manual? The factory describes the circuit very well. The Haynes just serves to confuse.
Marc/Atlanta