Since I haven't figured out how to check the slack while sitting on the bike (recommended check point) I use the centerstand and put the chain to the loose side of spec - somewhere around 1.5 inches. The chain will be a little tighter off the centerstand due to the rotation of the swing arm. Better to have too loose of chain than too tight.
The tip about using a screwdriver to pry the adjuster forward as you tighten the axle nut is a great one although I prefer to use a 14mm open end wrench.
Be sure to line up the rear sprocket with the chain/front sprocket - don't necessarily rely on the stamped markings on the swing arm. When making the adjustments simply count the number of "flats" on the adjuster nut/bolt and apply the same number of turns to both sides. One or two flats will make a big difference in chain tightness.
If you over tighten you'll have to loosen the bolts (again - count the flats and make them even) and bang the tire forward with your fist to seat it up against the bolts and begin all over again.
Have a spare cotter pin handy in case you break the original - I never could get them to last but a couple of changes so I went to a hitch pin. Other than that - take your time and enjoy the process...