Well folks-
I was having the infamous wrist aches and other aches due to the lower 2G bars. I also believe that the inverted "V" shape of the bars were just as guilty as the lower rise. So I contemplated getting risers or new bars. i personally thought that risers (Holeshot or even Genmars} wouldn't bring it back far enough. So I decided to go with new bars after visting a local cycle shop (got give M&S Cycle of Scotia, NY a plug) which had numerous bars to chose from. All their bars were $25 and very good quality. I actually removed my original bars first and brought them in to the shop to comparison shop. I chose some bars which were a about 2" more rise and 2"-3" more pullback than the original. The bars I chose were very wide, 32", so I trimmed 1.5" off each end. The new bar is now 29", about 3" wider than the OEM bar.
So what was the end result? I can't get the smile off my face after a 100 mile test ride to check it out. No wrist aches, no shoulder pain, just pure upright riding pleasure! There are a few caveats with doing this mod, I'll discuss those in a bit. But let me say that the little added rise and pullback has made my Bandit into a true sport-tourer. I even think the handiing in the twisties is better now due to the wider grip span.
So here are the before and after photos:
So as most of you would imagine, this install required the changing of the top brake line. The 1G top brake lines are 4" longer than the 2G's line so this was a perfect choice. I got mine gratis from a fellow Max-zuki member ("Bluemax"...thanks again!) who had his lines laying around from his ss upgrades. I may upgrade all my lines to ss this winter (will give me something to do ;) )
Also, i had to cut the wire clip on the front frame under the tripple trees to remove the electrical lines to create more slack. The line going to the left bar was tied to the front fork with a nylon tie. The right side was tied together with the throttle cables near their original position.
What I wasn't repared for was the re-routing of the throttle and clutch lines from infront of the forks to behind them. First I had to remove the throttle cables from the steel frame clip, then I had to remove the lines themselves from the plastic throttle housing to relocate them. I then bought some black nylon ties to secure them back to as close as possible to the original position. Here is the end result:
Next I had to disconnect the clutch brake line and re-route it to behind the front forks. I had to remove it out of the steel frame clip like I did with the throttle cables. When re-attaching to the master cylinder, there is a solid bar where the banjo mounts which elimates the 6 o'clock position for mounting the line. I originally faced the line forward but it seemed to pull too tight when turned all the way to the right. So I re-mounted it so it was facing more back and that worked out better. This winter I may try replacing this line with a 1G clutch line to get the line back to it's original position. Anyway, here is the end result:
So here is the final outcome:
I realize this mod might not be for everyone, but it is a matter of choice. I personally couldn't be happier with the new ergos. Am I crazy about all the new line locations, no, but there always be some type of trade off.
Hopefully this will help give additional information to those of you trying to decide whether to go with Genmars, Holeshot risers, helibars, or new handlebars.
For those of you interested in ordering these bars, here is how you can do it...
Call M&S Cycles @ 518-377-7980 and ask for the owner Steve Ritzko. Tell him you want to purchase the following handlebar: Triumph T-120 "Western Bar- pre 1970" model bar. The Taiwan made bar (like mine) will be $25 and the British make would be $35-40. Due to the odd shape and subsequent packaging issue, he thought shipping would be around $15 (east of the Mississippi) and a little more than that for west of the Miss.
You can e-mail, but he says he doesn't recommend that if you want fast service, but it's: mandscycle@cs.com
Good luck. Remember, you will need to trim 1.5" off each bar end and drill holes for the switch housing "nubbs". Measure good and use a center punch with a pilot bit for drilling the holes. I used a plumber's wheel cutter to score the chome and used a hacksaw for the rest of the bar cut. File off the burs, inside and outside.
Enjoy!
Topic: Need more rise & pullback? Risers vs new bars? 1 Solutio (Read 4384 times)