Author Topic: Norwegian streetfighter project (Read 8997 times)

stian · « **on:** October 28, 2005, 10:04:35 PM »

Finally got some pictures taken of my bike..
Been gathering parts and stuff for a while now, so i thought id start putting pieces together.. Could'nt wait any longer..
Anyway here is the project.:

97 B6, 5000 miles, hit the ground once, (not me) almost no damage.

- Renthal bars
- Chopped about 10 inches of the rear
- 2005 R1 tail (mod)
- LED r1 rear light w/ integrated turnsignals
- Custom seat to fit the R1 unit
- Custom carbon/alu plate undertray
- Jack up kit, 40mm
- Fork lowering 2"
- Dual headlights
- Mini turnsignals front
- Pyramid plastic Bellypan
- Pyramid plastic Rear hugger
- Wider tires, 170/60ZR17 rear, 120/70ZR17 front
- Typhoon Oval Carbon SlipOn
- Carbon levers (not mounted)
- Move the gear /rearbrake unit 2-3" back and 1" up (not mounted)
- Air breather (not mounted)
- Modify the front mudguard

Will post more images throughout the progress, the pictures i have now is pretty bad (sorry) and the bike is dirty as hell, but it's just a peak preview..

Please give me your thought's, what you think about it, anything missing ? Im sure there's a lot of things i forgot to mension, but this is what i remember so far.

For more images and specs about the project, visit www.team-htr.com

solman · « **Reply #1 on:** October 28, 2005, 11:35:32 PM »

Quote

- Dynojet kit stage 1
- k&n pods

It has always been my impression that you needed a stage 2 or 3 to run pods. I stage one is usually for minor mods(i.e. pipe, extra hole for airbox).

Cruisecontrol · « **Reply #2 on:** October 29, 2005, 01:58:22 AM »

Looking good, but I must say that a Suzuki must remain a Suzuki in every aspect.

Arkan Eller · « **Reply #3 on:** October 29, 2005, 05:59:24 AM »

Quote from: "Cruisecontrol"

Looking good, but I must say that a Suzuki must remain a Suzuki in every aspect.

^^^^ How odd. I'm not even sure what that's supposed to mean?

Anyway, looking good dude. I'm in the middle of streetfightering mine. I'm about to buy an R1 tail end that's made for the bandit, but I like the look of what you've done.

What did you have to do to "mod" the R1 tail unit. I've seen that others have had to cut off the bandit subframe and weld an R1 one on. To be honest, I'd rather cut the exisitng subframe to fit and then mode the tail unit as you've done if that's easier?

Cruisecontrol · « **Reply #4 on:** October 29, 2005, 07:06:06 AM »

Quote from: "Arkan Eller"

I'm not even sure what that's supposed to mean?

What did you have to do to "mod" the R1 tail unit.

You just answered your own question.

stian · « **Reply #5 on:** October 29, 2005, 11:35:07 AM »

I haven mod the r1 unit, i just chopped of the last 10 inches on the original subframe along with all the extra bits standing out, and the r1 tailpiece actually fit's really good.. can post some more pictures through the progress to show you how..

PitterB4 · « **Reply #6 on:** October 29, 2005, 11:59:32 AM »

Yeah - some people have a thing about using non-zuk parts. I think that tail looks sweet. Nice job.

Arkan Eller · « **Reply #7 on:** October 30, 2005, 04:01:45 PM »

Quote from: "stian"

I can post some more pictures through the progress to show you how..

Yeah that would be fantastic if you could. I'd definately be interested to see how you did it, any problems you had along the way and if you had to fabricate anything yourself.

IcyChaos · « **Reply #8 on:** October 31, 2005, 01:23:39 PM »

Ify our running an aftermarket exhaust and K&N Pods I highly suggest stage 2 jetting.
You may be able to get away with stage 1 without the aftermarket exhaust.

stian · « **Reply #9 on:** October 31, 2005, 08:21:14 PM »

Whats the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 jetting? Just the sizes of the jets? needles?

Buildt the r1 tail with some extra fiberglass today, just to strengthen everything.. Also a picture of my LED rear light..

Red01 · « **Reply #10 on:** October 31, 2005, 08:28:56 PM »

Quote from: "stian"

Whats the difference between stage 1 and stage 2 jetting? Just the sizes of the jets? needles?

Yes, both.

While that tail light looks cool and may allow you to dump turn signals, they are so close together people will have a hard time telling which way you intend to turn - unless they are RIGHT behind you.

Since that tail section flares out, it would be better to blend in some LED signals out a little further...

stian · « **Reply #11 on:** October 31, 2005, 08:41:31 PM »

Yes i know they are close togehter, but i thought id try with theese first, and eventually make som extra turnsignals further away..

I ordered dynojetkit from dynojet.com item number 3120, wont this work with k&n pods? i did'nt see anything called stage 1 or 2 on their website..

Red01 · « **Reply #12 on:** October 31, 2005, 09:32:13 PM »

According to the Dynojet website, they only offer a Stage 1 for your 1G B6... and the instructions say it's for a bike with the stock airbox with a stock or K&N filter. K&N pods are different.

Holeshot does offer a Stage 2 kit for the B6 and if you already have the pods, you can buy their kit without the pods.

Not sure how well the Dynojet kits work on the 600's, but they are problematic on the 1200's.

NIGHTRIDER · « **Reply #13 on:** November 01, 2005, 05:32:34 PM »

Quote from: "Red01"

According to the Dynojet website, they only offer a Stage 1 for your 1G B6... and the instructions say it's for a bike with the stock airbox with a stock or K&N filter. K&N pods are different.

Holeshot does offer a Stage 2 kit for the B6 and if you already have the pods, you can buy their kit without the pods.

Not sure how well the Dynojet kits work on the 600's, but they are problematic on the 1200's.

What are the problems on the 1200's that run the dynojet kit?

Red01 · « **Reply #14 on:** November 01, 2005, 11:52:47 PM »

Difficulty getting them to run smootly across the board. Stumbles and flat spots are more common, bigger and harder to tune out than with kits from Holeshot, Ivans or Factory-Pro.