Fuel Line Repleacement

[Ronin]

I have a general maintenance question for ya'll.  

I was reading through my '02 B12 manual and it recommended the fuel lines be changed out every two years, or maybe it's four, either way it seems a little excessive.

Do ya'll change out your fuel lines, brake lines, etc. as Suzuki recommends?  Or do you use a personal method to decide when, and if, it's ever time to perform such maintenance.

This one has me stumped.  And as this is the first bike I have owned I don't have a good reference and need a little help.

Matt

[PeteSC]

The rubber degrades over time.   It's a safe bet to replace the fuel lines and brake lines after 4-5 years, or earlier, if you notice deterioration.
2 years is kind of early, but it can't hurt.
    I replaced all of my brake lines on my '99 with stainless braided stuff after 4 years or so.  It's a good upgrade, and made sense.
 The fuel lines I think I did after about 3 years, when one of them split.
  Of course, somebody will pop in and say they have a 1944 Bandit with all original lines...but, it's cheaper and easier to replace them periodically, at home, when you have access to cheaper parts, than it is to have to do it on the side of the road.   They do deteriorate......maybe at a much slower rate in some cases, due to smog levels, exposure to weather, and nit picky maintenance....but they do deteriorate, and fail.

[Mongo]

The rubber degrades over time.   It's a safe bet to replace the fuel lines and brake lines after 4-5 years, or earlier, if you notice deterioration.
2 years is kind of early, but it can't hurt.

I have to agree with Pete, it never hurts to do a little preventative maintenance. Fuel line is cheap enough, and you should not forget to inspect you vacuum lines while you’re in there.

Stainless braided brake lines are not only good choice for replacements they also enhance your stopping power because they do not expand like a rubber line allowing more fluid pressure to be applied to the pistons!

[Red01]

Great advice!  

If you're not going to replace them that often, at least start keeping a close eye on them after a couple of years.

Once they start weather checking, you certainly want to get new ones!

[vadim]

My bandit has turned 4 recently and I'd like to do the recommended maintenance on it along the lines above.  Could you recommend your favorite suppliers?

Thanks,

-Vadim

[tacoman]

How long the rubber lines last depends on a couple factors.  How hot is it where you ride?  High temps will eat them faster.  Do you store your bike outdoors? Weather will degrade them faster.  Some hoses may just be better than others.  The mfgs have many suppliers so there's probably good and bad batches.  You can buy fuel line by the foot at any auto parts stores, the dealer usually doesn't take you too bad on these either.  All the mail order places carry it but I prefer to take a piece with me to the store to make sure it matches up.

[Mongo]

My bandit has turned 4 recently and I'd like to do the recommended maintenance on it along the lines above.  Could you recommend your favorite suppliers?

As far as fuel and vacuum lines go the local parts house should have a good supply but, like it's been suggested take a chunk of your old ones with you. Those pesky little vacuum lines have made me make many a return trip to the parts counter!

As far as braided brake lines go Galfer and Goodridge seem to be the choice with the folks that I run with. Personally I have not made the upgrade yet but, a number of my friends say it greatly improves your stopping capabilities. But be ready to drop a few hundred dollars to replace all the brake lines as well as your clutch line for the braided upgrade.

[Ronin]

Thanks for the help guys.  I'm gonna run down to O'Reilly or Auto Zone sometimes this week and start replacing the lines.

And Mongo had a good point with taking the original line with you to get the new ones.  I've made that macho mistake of thinking I could remember the size and length of the hose needed.  By the time I got the parts shop and had to end up making another round trip to get the proper match.

I think I'm going with the Galfer SS lines for the brakes and clutch.  

Any suggestions for ease of removal and installation of new brake/clutch lines.  I've read a few blurbs here and there on the web but they don't offer too much help.  If any of ya'll have the Clymers Manual; does it help?

[PeteSC]

Spend $30 for a plastic MityVac pump.   If you're doing all your lines, it's worth it......

[Ronin]

I ordered a full set, including clutch lines, of SS lines for my ride so I'll be changing them out next weekend if that darn Hurricane Rita stays away from Houston.

I was eyeing the MityVac, now I know I'll need it.  

I have another question, have ya'll heard any good or bad things about the speed bleeders.  I figure if I'm in there changing out the lines and fluid I might as well put something on that will help me in future bleeds.  I've done bleeds on cars so I have a little experience but I need all the help I can get because my wife can't help me like she used to in the garage.  Toddlers and free time without parents watching every seconds do not mix.

[Red01]

I haven't used 'em on a bike, but have on cars. They work well. However, if you're gonna bleed with a MightyVac or similar tool, you don't need 'em.

[Mongo]

Thanks for the help guys.  I'm gonna run down to O'Reilly or Auto Zone sometimes this week and start replacing the lines.

And Mongo had a good point with taking the original line with you to get the new ones.  I've made that macho mistake of thinking I could remember the size and length of the hose needed.  By the time I got the parts shop and had to end up making another round trip to get the proper match.

I think I'm going with the Galfer SS lines for the brakes and clutch.  

Any suggestions for ease of removal and installation of new brake/clutch lines.  I've read a few blurbs here and there on the web but they don't offer too much help.  If any of ya'll have the Clymers Manual; does it help?

Ronin,

Don't worry about the length just worry about diameters! Just nip off a short chunk from the end of the line and pick up a butt load of it at the parts house, it's better to have too much than not enough. And nothing is worse than removing the complete line and not remembering where it went! This normally only applies to vacuum lines, never seems to be a problem with fuel that ones rather obvious!

As far as brake and clutch lines go patience is the key word and don't forget brake fluid will play hell on your finish so an ample amount of grease rags is always a good idea. Once the lines are on gravity works best just keep an eye on the fluid levels in the reservoir. Open the bleeders one at a time and let gravity do the rest. Personally I have a cheap fix when it comes to bleeding an empty water bottle and chunk of vacuum line that fits snug over the bleeder screw keeps the fluid from messing up your finish.

Once you have allowed the fluid to gravity feed just open the bleeder and depress the lever slowly and then close the bleeder and release. Repeat this several times on each caliper, it's always a good idea to put the end of the vacuum line in your catch bottle into some additional fluid that way you will be able to see the air bubbles. Once you see a solid flow of fluid you should be good to go. Remember to always refresh the fluid in the reservoir if you allow them to go dry it just becomes a repeat process!

Todd

By the way that is brake fluid in my bottle I just replaced the rear calipers on my jag over the weekend and removed a lot of old fluid!

[Ronin]

Thanks guys.  I now have more confidence on tackling this task.

And from the comments I have read on how much better stainless lines are than OEM I'll be very happy once I finish.

Matt