Chain Tightening

[dhcolesj]

Well, that's a scary thought.  That the marks are not accurate on the swing arm.  Considering the manual says use 'em.  Hmmm. . . . I've gotta check my chain, and I was planning to use the marks.  (at least as a keep me close reference anyway.).

[smooth operator]

Well, that's a scary thought.  That the marks are not accurate on the swing arm.  Considering the manual says use 'em.  Hmmm. . . . I've gotta check my chain, and I was planning to use the marks.  (at least as a keep me close reference anyway.).

  Mine are well within the prescribed limits of accuracy & tolerence.But I still use a measuring devise to check them.

[Dave 02 1200]

The goal is to be able to set your chain so it never gets too tight when the suspension compresses. 

That is because as the suspension compresses and the swingarm brings the front sprocket, the swingarm pivot, and rear sprocket into line, the chain gets tighter.  When all three are in direct alignment, the chain is at its tightest point.

That is why I take the few minutes it takes to put the bike on the center stand and do the following:

1. remove the bolt that goes through the bottom of the dogbones so the swingarm moves freely.

2. block the swingarm up so the chain is at its tightest point (sprockets and swingarm pivot in line).

3. adjust chain so there is no slack but it is not too tight

4. align wheel, double-check chain tension, and tighten everything

5. remove block holding swingarm up and replace bolt and nut at bottom of dog bones

It took me longer to type this than to do a chain adjustment as described above.  It sounds like more work than it is.

The big payoff is in knowing your chain is adjusted adsolutely correctly.

Then you will see that the results will be pretty close to what you get by using the technique described in the factory manual - that is, if you do it exactly right.

Better safe than sorry.  Take the time and adjust it correctly.  If you keep it clean and oiled it will last a long time between needing adjustments.

Hope this helps. 

Dave

[Dave 02 1200]

One more thing:

Rotate the rear wheel to see when the chain gets tighter.  Find its tightest spot.

That is where you want it to be when you set it as described in my earlier post.

[Dave 02 1200]

One last thing: 

Alignment is really important but, as per the earlier posts, the marks should not be trusted until their accuracy is verified (or new correct index marks are made).

Get two contractor's levels 72" long. 

Use them as straight edges to align front and rear wheels.

Observe the alignment marks. 

If they are the same on both sides, great!  Use them with some confidence (although the levels are a lot more accurate than the best of marks).

If the marks are not the same on both sides when the wheels are correctly aligned, make new marks on the swingarm on one side to match the other side.

Good luck,

Dave

[Bandit1250]

One more time just for the heck of it.......the OEM manual says to adjust the chain while the bike is on the SIDE stand, why complicate a simple task?

[Dave 02 1200]

The factory recommended method was intended to make the job as easy as possible for the average rider who wants a simple procedure that will produce acceptable results.

However, it is quite possible to get the chain too tight using that method, especially if ride height has been increased by installing a Hayabusa shock or "jack-up" plates to raise the rear, thereby increasing the amount of slack required to avoid an over-tight chain when the suspension is compressed.

I simply wanted to get my chain set with a minimum of slack while being certain that it will not be too tight when the suspension is compressed and the swingarm is horizontal, and the sprockets are lined up with the swingarm pivot, causing the greatest distance between the sprockets and the chain is at its tightest point.

I have found that using the factory recommended method can result in some variance in actual chain tension due to inexact measurement (or estimation) of slack and variability in the degree of rear suspension sag at the time of adjustment.

The good news is that the factory recommended method is easy to do and is good enough for most riders most of the time and that is better than neglecting maintenance because it is too much hassle.

Hope that explains why I use the more complicated and more accurate method most of the time in the garage at home and why I would use the factory recommended method if necessary following a roadside repair etc.

Good luck,

Dave

[DJP]

The best way to adjust the chain is with the bike on the side stand.

Find the tight spot of the chain and turn the rear wheel so that the tight spot is in the centre of the lower chain run. Slack off the axle nut just enough to allow the adjusters to move, put the bike on the side stand and then lean across the seat putting as much body weight as possible onto it.

With the suspension thus compressed, there should be about 1.5" of total up and down movement in the centre of the lower chain run (at the tight spot).

It's best to check the tension again after adjustment as tightening the axle nut sometimes tightens the chain (a good reason not to loosen it too far in the first place!)

Works for me!