Brake Hoses

[Jacknife]

At what age would you change the front brake hoses and to what type, any good after market ones?

[Steve]

I was about 50 when I changed my last set.  

The main reason that folks change to steel braid covered brake lines is to improve the firmness of the brake lever and increase brake response to lever pressure. The "steel" lines don't expand when under pressure like the OEM lines do, although this expansion is slight it does make a difference.

The brake lines that came with your bike will most likely serve the life of the bike without really needing to be changed.

When I did my front brakes I used Galfer lines, teflon liner inside, steel braid, covered in clear plastic tubing to keep them looking nice and to prevent scratches to the bike. I used two lines that run from the calipers directly to the master cylinder, eliminating the splitter. I also changed my pads to EBC-HH pads (some will tell you that these will destroy the rotors, I have had no problem with noise or excessive rotor wear). The result was dramatic.

I'm sure there are lots of good lines out there, I just draw a blank coming up with names.

The most important thing you will face if you decide to change your lines is completely bleeding all air from the system, this has to be done or your effort and money is wasted - look Ma no brakes!

Good luck!

Steve

[PeteSC]

There is a recommended replacement period for the rubber lines. Haynes says every 4 years.   That's a good time to switch to braided!

[Steve]

The Suzuki Service Manual also says replace lines @ 4 yrs, along with replace fluid at 2 years. I agree that replacing the lines is a good idea, all that I was alluding to is that the vast majority of the bikes running around will never have the brake lines changed, and won't experience failure either.

I'm sure not saying that FUF is a good practice on bikes in general, especially on critical things like brakes, tires, steering.......

Oh yeah, Goodridge and Russell are two other names for brake lines. Be sure that you watch the angles of the banjo bolt fittings at the ends of the lines that you buy, some suppliers will provide angled fittings that don't exactly match what you had. Do not try to bend those guys, if they don't leak immediately they are real prone to failure.

Steve

BTW: My brake fluid comes out annually.

[Jacknife]

Hmm, Thanks. Im looking at buying a set of Goodridge braided hoses. Any good brake fluid you would use?

[PeteSC]

Jacknife...anything you can find locally that's within specs.  (Dot 4 type)

  I've been changing all of my fluid out at the same time.  Clutch and brakes on the B12)    By the time I'm on my last refill/bleed....I'm a pro!

 It's easier to keep track of that way anyway.

  I think Speigler makes good braided lines, also....

  I've never heard of a Bandit OEM brake line failing, Steve, but it's not something I want to happen.......even if it just involved some nasty brake fluid eating away at finishes.
  We did have a guy on here years ago who popped an oil line on a newish b12, though.

[Terbang Roy]

I have a 1980 GSX1100 that still has origional lines on it and they are working fine. I also have braided lines on a similar 1982 model that have definatly firmed up the front lever for the better.

[deepink]

I changed my lines at 3 years, to the Galfer Steel Braided.  You can tell the difference.
Nice looking too.  But not a reason to change.  Oh Well.

[chupacabra]

What do you guys like better?
Two lines from the master or one?
Keep the tea or dump the tea?

[Steve]

Starting back several posts... Pete I totally agree about keeping vital stuff working well. I change tires before many would just to be sure, that is the same mentality as R&Ring the brake lines. I was just saying that they very rarely fail, look at cars for instance, very few will ever change out their weather checked lines on their car, they will still be glued to your taillight though, and almost always their brakes will work better than their sense. All I was thinking about when I posted earlier was those who insist that the part is not worn out until it fails, false economy and dangerous, but a vocal part of the group.

Deepink, I noticed a BIG diff every time I have changed to steel lines, on several different bikes. To me that is a reason to change, it is THE reason that I change. I like my front brakes to be very touchy and I rarely let others ride my bikes. The front end will go away fast with a handfull of brakes under the wrong conditions.

I usually just keep clear fluid and good pads in the rears. FWIW, when I get around to doing the brakes on my daily driver car, I will drop in a set of braided lines just for the heck of it, but I really like that old car.

Finally, I choose the direct approach. I want the least cavities to retain air bubbles during bleeding, and as long as I'm at it I will remove the most extra unneeded junk (like the "tea") as I can. One line direct from each caliper to the master cylinder is my preference. If having one line come up to the handlebars is important to you, you might prefer using a 3 line kit.

Steve

[Jacknife]

how do you fit 2 lines to the master or do you need to fit a new master? I also like the look of just 1 line coming up to the handle bars, but would go to 2 if its better! :mrgreen:

[tacoman]

Brake line life depends on where you live and if your bike is outside.  A bike sitting outside will need fluid/lines changed far more often than a garaged unit.  Lots of hot sun will eat em up too.  I had some russell lines that worked good on a gixxer I had.  I had the double lines off the master cyl.  The mounting bolt is extra long for two lines with of course two holes.  You just put a crush washer between the two lines.

[Jacknife]

I see, so you have 2 banjo fittings on one bolt, nice will look more in to this. but i could have the tee cromed up? dont know now more confused about what to do!

[PeteSC]

I actually have a Galfer from the master cyclinder to the tee on the front, and Russell down to the calipers.   (The Galfer section came with my Helibars.)
  I went ahead and put Russell on the back brake, also.
 Sooner or later, will do the clutch line.

  Yeah, Steve, there's advantages to both maintenance approaches.
  The OEM brake lines could probably last 20 years.
  I was 'dressing' up the old girl, so I went ahead with stainless lines.

[Red01]

If you like the look of a sigle line coming off the master cylinder, and want to loose the tee, there's another option... you can route the lines like they do on the SV1000. One line from the master to the right caliper, and a second line that ties the left caliper ot the right.



This methos is also used on several other Suzukis, like the GSXR1000.