Factory pro stage 1

[salty]

My Buddy has a 1200 Gen 1 U.K. bike #102.5 Main jets #37.5 pilot jet. (these are stock Suzuki uk sizes fitted to a gen 1 bike). He has just gone himself a factory pro Config 10. (stage 1) kit off e-bay. He wont let me remove his carbs (a bit paranoid having had bad air leaks on his old Kwaka)
But is quite happy for me to fiddle in other respects.his bike is standard aside from a slip on can,snorkel removed from the airbox and a 4 degree advancer BTW, so the question is... What would he gain from me just swapping out the needles and changing the carb springs?
I must say in its existing setup it runs very well with no stumbles or splutters and no backfiring on deceleration.
Any suggestions please as i have told him to either leave it alone or do it properly and let me rip it to bits
Thanks in advance
Salty

[B6mick]

Salty I swear by factory pro products.
Follow their recommendations to the letter.
And I bet ya, a vast difference, will be felt.

Factory Pro Rocks.

Also check the web site for follow up info.

[salty]

I'm sure your right,Mine is Dyno Jetted and took a lot of tweaking to get it running sweet across the rev range.I'm still trying to establish what just changing the needles and springs only that come with the set would achieve? possibly in conjunction with altering the air screw if needed (i have a nifty little screwdriver from Morgan Carbtune that lets you do this with the carbs in place).
Anybody with any thoughts?
Salty

[Banditmax]

Well if the bigger bandits needle's are anything like the 400's then i think you'll end up with a bike thats running rich if you only do the needles.

[salty]

not sure?the kit comes with a range of mains from #100 /#105 and #107.5 (i'm running #127 mains with the 2" hole mod). offers a #40 pilot jet for leaner off idle, i was thinking of popping some extra holes in his airbox if it started to be a bit rich(i can always tape them up one at a time if i overcook it), also i never realized he has a poor excuse for a baffle still in his end can so that can go for a start, it's just as noisy as my Yoshi race can?
what bothers me most is the float height, they seem pretty adamant to set it at 15mm (14.7mm stock) i had to set mine to 13.7mm to get mine sorted so i know how finicky float levels are to running correctly. My pal refuses point blank to letting me pull his carbs (please don't ask )
I think i may just go for it this weekend, i wont take long to put it back as it was if runs like a dog.
Salty.

[B6mick]

The whole and single reason I went the path of factory Pro, is they are the easest to set up. (The kit cost is a bit more )
Follow there recommendations to the letter.
My local dyno shop, turned me in that direction(factory pro)
As Deano says dyno time is money. Factory pro kits are mostly spot on with thier remmendation for settings, where as Dyno jets and Ivans can be a bit of a F*#* around.
With Project REX I followed the instructions for the stage 3 kit to the letter, and I have not touched it since, perfect in ever range, no faultering no flat spots, just perfect. Not bad, really, carb settings right first time. But Deano says this is pretty normal for factory Pro.