LATEST ON OIL FILTERS

[DaveG]

almost hate to start another oil filter thread but i see that the pure one is now made in china.

it was my filter of choice but it doesn't look so good anymore.

thinking K&N but that's alot to pay for a nut.
HiFlo may be my next choice

so chime in;

who likes what lately


BTW I use Rotella synth. 5w40

[PaulVS]

Since the STP SM0-18 is no longer available anywhere near me... I use the Suzuki OEM.  It's the best rated of the ones made for the Bandit, and you can occassionally find deals on them.

I recently picked up 4 of them for about $32 shipped.

Other than that... most people seem to find the WIX/NAPA filter to be the best bang-for-the-buck.


EDIT:  The Hi-Flo looks to do pretty well in this comparison...

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/FilterStudy.html

[txbanditrydr]

who likes what lately

I use the Suzuki OEM.  It's the best rated of the ones made for the Bandit

+1..... every other oil change (4,000 miles max)

[B6mick]

Actually I'm turning away from the lot of them, and saving the bucks for a new reusable unit that is fully servicable. about $200 Aus.

Standard filters are rated to 10 micron, these suckers are rated to 30 micron +.

No brainer there. In 50 thousand K's its paid for itself, and the extra 20 microns of protection is free.

[pmackie]

Hey Mick

Standard filters are rated to 10 micron, these suckers are rated to 30 micron +.

Filters are normally rated based on the maximum size particle they will let past. You can get either "Absolute" or "Nominal". An Absolute will not let ANY particles of the listed size or larger through, whereas Nominal lists the average particle size. I haven't ever looked at the specs on our oil filters, so I don't know what they are.

Anyway, my point here is that the unit you are considering will let a 30 micron particle past, where the stock one will only let a 10 micron particle past. (assuming you listed the data accurately) 30 microns is a LOT larger...

[B6mick]

opps.

Correction required.
I got the figures the wrong way round.

My tyre supplier who is a total efen nutter, hope he don't mind me calling him that, Paul from Cyco engineering, turned on to them, he preps all sorts of racing engines.

[Vlad]

My tyre supplier who is a total efen nutter, hope he don't mind me calling him that, Paul from Cyco engineering, turned on to them, he preps all sorts of racing engines.

Are you talking about one of these?

http://www.suzukisv1000.com/products/v3_oil_filters.htm

http://www.gopurepower.com/store/item.asp?itemID=8400&dia=true

A quick calculation tells me that it would take somewhere between 100,000Km and 200,000Km for one of those to pay for them self, and that's if I don't take into account the time/effort spent to clean them. In absence of independent test results, I don't believe a washable stainless steel mesh can filter any better than standard paper filter and I also don't believe it can be washed thoroughly and/or easily enough. Also, for that kind of money they should have included a nut on top of it :). Just my 2c.

I used K&N, but have recently switched mostly to OEM. Change them sometimes every oil change, sometimes every other, depending on how long I've run the oil and which oil I've used.

[B6mick]

My tyre supplier who is a total efen nutter, hope he don't mind me calling him that, Paul from Cyco engineering, turned on to them, he preps all sorts of racing engines.

Are you talking about one of these?

http://www.suzukisv1000.com/products/v3_oil_filters.htm

http://www.gopurepower.com/store/item.asp?itemID=8400&dia=true

A quick calculation tells me that it would take somewhere between 100,000Km and 200,000Km for one of those to pay for them self, and that's if I don't take into account the time/effort spent to clean them. In absence of independent test results, I don't believe a washable stainless steel mesh can filter any better than standard paper filter and I also don't believe it can be washed thoroughly and/or easily enough. Also, for that kind of money they should have included a nut on top of it :). Just my 2c.

I used K&N, but have recently switched mostly to OEM. Change them sometimes every oil change, sometimes every other, depending on how long I've run the oil and which oil I've used.

No 50 thousand K's mate.

Change oil every 5 thou. the price of the Oil filter against the price of throw away unit, yes I'm a bit anal maybe But I toss the filter everytime I change the oil. So I don't know what you pay for a K&N
We downunder pay at trade near $20 for the 138c (nice chrome one.)

If you don't believe they are any better,( the washable unit ) thats fine, but if race teams here are turning to them, and sponcership money is not a problem, one has to ask why? and I did, they are convinced of the 20 micron protection benifit.

Yes they are very similar, not the same units I'm looking at.
also differnt in the filtering surfaces, as the one I'm looking at has a multi layered discs that act as the filtering surfaces, a total breeze to clean, when I get my hands on one I'll pull it all apart and send pics

[Blade]

Another thing to consider with the lower micron rating is that it will also affect oil flow. So it could change oil delivery to your engine. Bandit air/oil cooled already have a slight issues with oil delivery to the top end.

[Vlad]

No 50 thousand K's mate.

I based my calculation on $10 (Canadian) per paper filter (that's what I pay for OEM if I buy 4 or more) and approximately $200 (again Canadian) for the "washable" unit (rough average of US$120-200 for those I've seen on the web).

If you don't believe they are any better,( the washable unit ) thats fine, but if race teams here are turning to them, and sponcership money is not a problem, one has to ask why? and I did, they are convinced of the 20 micron protection benifit.

I don't believe until it's substantiated by hard facts. Race teams are not a very good reference, IMO, as they overhaul their engines much more often than I plan on doing. They are probably more interested in the unrestricted flow of oil than filtering properties. I also dismiss manufacturer's claims as inflated by default until/unless they are proven by independent testing. If they don't list the lab results they can claim whatever they want - I don't see a 30 micron hole any better than a 10 micron one :). 

Yes they are very similar, not the same units I'm looking at.
also differnt in the filtering surfaces, as the one I'm looking at has a multi layered discs that act as the filtering surfaces, a total breeze to clean, when I get my hands on one I'll pull it all apart and send pics

I'm looking forward to hear your first hand impressions and see the pictures. Contrary to what it may seem, I'm quite open to the idea of not having to buy/throw away a filter every month. I'm just skeptic because I've seen too much snake oil before.

[Red01]

I've dealt with those re-useable type stainless mesh filters before in aircraft and I hated having to clean them.  In the aircraft biz, we had to use special solvents and an ultrasonic cleaning machine.  Due to the time and expense involved in cleaning filter elements, the industry has pretty much gone to disposable elements that fit in the same bowl as the old cleanable ones.

[PaulVS]

I'd tend to stick with the paper filter type myself... about 5 years worth of them to pay for the s/s mesh filter. 

Cleaning a filter every oil change?  Meh.  Don't have the time. 

Mainly though, I've never heard of anyone who had anything near an engine failure that resulted from using the OEM filter.

And also... I think a Murphy's Law Addendum states that the minute you spend $100 on an oil filter is the same time you will wad your bike and not be able to use said filter ever again.   

[B6mick]

Another thing to consider with the lower micron rating is that it will also affect oil flow. So it could change oil delivery to your engine. Bandit air/oil cooled already have a slight issues with oil delivery to the top end.

They are in fact a lot larger than the standard spin on unit, hench they don't have a problem of starving the engine of oil, but they do have a problem that has stopped me in my tracks. One would have to remove the headers to remove and install this filter, so thats a big PITA, as as much as I love wrenching on my bikes, that is the end of my idea of buying such a unit.

[DaveG]

i went with the OEM    $10.95 vs. 6.95 for the Purolator
what the heck $4 and it seems to be a very good filter.

[gyrogearcrunch]

My tyre supplier who is a total efen nutter, hope he don't mind me calling him that, Paul from Cyco engineering, turned on to them, he preps all sorts of racing engines.

Are you talking about one of these?

http://www.suzukisv1000.com/products/v3_oil_filters.htm

http://www.gopurepower.com/store/item.asp?itemID=8400&dia=true

A quick calculation tells me that it would take somewhere between 100,000Km and 200,000Km for one of those to pay for them self, and that's if I don't take into account the time/effort spent to clean them. In absence of independent test results, I don't believe a washable stainless steel mesh can filter any better than standard paper filter and I also don't believe it can be washed thoroughly and/or easily enough. Also, for that kind of money they should have included a nut on top of it :). Just my 2c.

I used K&N, but have recently switched mostly to OEM. Change them sometimes every oil change, sometimes every other, depending on how long I've run the oil and which oil I've used.

Try to find a smaller "toilet-paper oil filter" kit, a remote cap to fit your bike, and install it. You will be amazed and stupefied at the wonders that follow. You think diesel engines are long-lived? You think a spin-on filter will increase your gas mileage by at least 10%? Fuggedaboudit! I speak from personal experience with one of these filters from J.C. Whitney back in 1972 ($17.95!!!) on my car for over 100,000 miles. The only reason I had to change oil at all was to freshen up the oil additive package.

There are just one or two T.P. oil filter makers left out there, far as I know, and they are mainly used on diesels. They sure as dickens don't go for $18 bucks anymore either.