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[lighter223]

I now have a tool for getting to the a/f screw (had a ratcheting 90♣ screwdriver, got a flew extention).

I set the screws 2.5 turns out before I put the carbs back in.  Too rich..., I think)
 So I used the tool and turned each one 1 turn out(from seated)  It's doing the same thing though....

There is white smoke coming out of the exhaust that is, for as far as I know, unspent fuel.

It does not rev up past 5k and Idling is rough if it does die

I do have a video:

http://s567.photobucket.com/albums/ss116/lighter223/?action=view&current=MOV00506.flv


I ran the seafoam through it after I cleaned the carbs.

The carbs need not be snyched

Anyone else have something like this or just know about it...

[lighter223]

K... backed the a/f screws on all carbs out to 3 turns.

Works a lot better... I guess that the white smoke out exhaust was and wasnt a rich mixture.

The bike gets up to redline on it's own now but i still have an abundance of white smoke.... that coupled with the fact that the #1 cylinder's exhaust is not at all as hot as 3 & 4 makes me think that 1 isn't firing..

People says check the plugs. Some say check for spark.  I just had the plugs cleaned(like new) and will probably end up buying new ones in a couple of months (no spare money right now), so I want to check for a spark.

I am confident in my ability to check under instruction but not comfortable without.  So someone tell me that it's safe to try to start an engine with a spark plug out of its socket and I'll be fiine...

Thanks.

also #2 doesnt really feel as hot as 3 or 4.

i am able to hold on to 1 for a short while, 3 and 4 I can barely touch and #2 I can hold for like 3 seconds.

maybe something, maybe nothing

[Red01]

You could start it with a plug out, but if all you're doing is checking for spark health, just cranking it over ought to be enough.

You could also swap leads between 2 & 3 to see if 2 gets as warm as 3 did and if 3 cools down to 2.  That would tell if you have a lead that's not working as well as it should.  Likewise, you can swap 1 & 4 to check that pair.

Have you checked the valve adjustment?

[lighter223]

No I havent checked the valves.  didnt want to get into that just yet... everything was fine before this winter and I didnt ride it through winter and I would assume that the valves woud be where  I left them... alone.

as far as switching leads... you are sure about the switching 1 & 4 and 2&3 for some reason i thought it was every other one...  1&3 and 2&4 but I really dont know.

And I just wanted to be sure it was safe to crank with a sprk plug out

[Red01]

Yes, I'm sure the 1/4 & 2/3 pairs run off the same coil... but feel free to raise the tank and see for yourself. 

[lighter223]

Ok I checked.  Only questioned it because I mis-looked at the wires I thought I saw 4 going to 3 anyway..
  I just warmed it up for 2-3 minutes with full choke....

1&3 are hot 2&4 are cold.

I havent checked sparks yet

will do now...

One coilpack doesnt go half bad does it  meaning cyl 2 is goo but 3 is not?



---------------

So I tried checking the spark and either I am doing something wrong or something is seriously wrong....

Am I supposed to ground the plug as well while it is out of the engine.

I tried to check #2 adn got no spark.  tried the #2 plug on the #1 wire, nothing.. pulled #1 plug and tried it on the # 1 wire and got nothing (thhis is where I got worried)

[txbanditrydr]

Plug threads need to be touching ground when cranking....  be careful you don't become part of the circuit...   

[pmackie]

Am I supposed to ground the plug as well while it is out of the engine.

Yup...the spark needs to arc across the plug gap, into the plug body, which is normally in contact with the cylinder to complete the circuit. So, yes, you MUST have the plug thread or hex in contact with the cylinder head, or another good ground.

[lighter223]

I just didnt want to short it kk thanks will check in an hour or so

[Red01]

One coilpack doesnt go half bad does it  meaning cyl 2 is goo but 3 is not?

I don't think so.  I'm pretty sure it's one coil with two outputs.  You could have one lead from each going bad.  If that's the case, it would be best to replace them all because the others aren't gonna be far behind.

[lighter223]

So I checked one and two again yesterday before I stepped out for te day, and I got sparks from both, although on the #2 plug the spark was further down from the tip of the electrode, while #1 was at the tip.  The other od thing was that I have NGK dual prongs and the spark was only going to one prong on both plugs... shouldnt I get 2 sparks if they're evenly gapped? Is that a sign of a bad plug maybe...

anyone know where I can get ngk's for cheap. I want to to to a single prong but dont really have money for 9 bucks a plug.  But if I need them I will get them

Will check 3&4 in an hour and get back with info.  thanks

[PaulVS]

The other od thing was that I have NGK dual prongs and the spark was only going to one prong on both plugs... shouldnt I get 2 sparks if they're evenly gapped? Is that a sign of a bad plug maybe

Nope... only one spark per customer. 

If I'm not mistaken, the spark will take the path of least resistance... meaning it will go to whichever prong is closer.

[lighter223]

ah ok.. I assumed that with two prongs you get two weaker sparks rather than one strong spark one might get with one prong....

Anyway, just got done testing #3&4 and they have spark, so all plugs and wires are functioning properly. now I dont know whats wrong .

So some pipes are cold... but I am getting spark on all plugs, though it seems I am having raw fuel coming out of the exhaust( I found the exchaust pipe is very wet and the exhaust itself is very gassy...

Mind you that the bike was running damn fine before winter... did nothing all winter and now I have problems...


Any other ideas...

Fuel is getting in all cylinders because plugs are a bit wet...

Unspent fuel is definitely leaving the cylinders so that leads me to believe that the valves are opening and closing properly.

I have tried with a/f screws all the way in and up to three turns out... runs the same no matter what...

#2&#4 are the ones that are definitely NOT firing - solve this problem and I believe the bike will work...


NEW BUT OLD SYMPTOM....  There is a kind of hiccough coming from the choke valve on each carb (if you engage choke, a brass something is pulled simultaneously from each carb) as well as out of the airbox.

[rworm]

Clean (Carbs and petcock)
Is petcock leaking?

[lighter223]

carbs have been cleaned and petcock is not leaking...

I have noticed the fact that if you leave petcock on PRIME that fuel will sometime mix with the oil in the crankcase... Is tthat correct?

If it is would that prevent the engine from running correct.  to me it wouldnt.  later on while it is running there wouldnt be the properties of the oil to help keep the engine alive.

But would the fumes deprive the engine of oxygen and would it do anything to the rings for the cylinders that would make a cylinder lose compression.

I dont think that I have lost compression but I know I have lost combustion.

The cylinder heads on each cylinder are hot but I think that may be the conduction of heat from the supposed working cylinders because the pipes are still cold. but maybe something is blocking the pipes.. like a mouse or something but wouldnt the pressure be building up behind it and at least push it into the muffler.  and I dont smell any thing funky and there is still unspent gas comng out... hmmm.  just musing.  I really dont know.

In a few weeks I will be back in CA and will be able to take the heads off and get to the valves and redo the carbs maybe I will get a jet kit and maybe I'll saok the entire assembly...

I have read about the different kits here on the forums.. anyone have any experience in particular with a CA 01B6.

Will look in the for sale area for a cheap kit and maybe someone has one for cheap that reads this...

Also is there a stage 2 or is it just stock and stage 1?