Uneven brake pads

[06 Greyhound]

I put a new reart tire on last night (BT021 awesome 12 k on the last one) and noticed that the rear brake pads looked a bit odd.  The outside pad is 1/2 gone while the inside one looks barely used.   Is this normal?  I wouldn't think so. But this is the first bike I have kept long enough to actually use up a set of pads.  I never had to replace a set and I'm wondering if the caliper is working correctly.  Help please I have a big ride coming up.  See Canada for ride notes

[PaulVS]

I think it's pretty normal on most disc brake vehicles, including cars.

One side of the caliper is always going to have more hydraulic pressure on it than the other.  I'm sure more advanced caliper designs on higher-end vehicles make things equal out better, but the Bandit rear brake is pretty stone-age.

Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.  

[mademiriam]

I wouldn't be too worried about it either, IF you feel so inclined you can give the caliber a good cleaning, that never does any harm. Most people seem to find that rear brake pads last a REALLY long time. If you feel more comfortable replacing them now isn't too $$$ and it would most likely (unless you are a bike courier) last until the end of your bandit relationship.

[06 Greyhound]

Thanks for that, I was concerned given the difference between the two pads.   Given that I have only 17000 on the bike I thought that there might be something unusual happening.  I really wasn't expecting to see any ware.  I seldom do gravel and as a result don't use the rear brake all that much.   

[stormi]

We just noticed the same thing on our @!$# diesel. (I really don't like that truck!)
the things r_outsider checked were:

• Caliper function (making sure that the pistons hadn't seized, etc)
• rotor for warpage (bingo, in our case)
• broken pieces, like the little springs that hold the pads off the discs when not in use (this happened with my ZX2) I don't remember the bikes having these, but worth looking at any other little bits and bobs while you're there.  See if anything looks "weird"

Worth looking at?  It's probably nothing, but this might give you some peace of mind.

[txbanditrydr]

Perhaps taking the pads out and reversing them will help even things up....   

[stormi]

About as close to a tire rotation as you can get on a bike? 

[pmackie]

IIRC the B12 has a 2 piston opposed caliper on the rear. I would be concerned that the inside piston is sticking a bit compared to the outside, which is moving more freely.

If your interested, it is pretty easy to take the rear caliper apart, clean things up, and inspect the pistons and seals for any damage, etc. It will force you to change the brake fluid at the same time.

On the other hand, if you're happy with the amount of braking force your getting from the rear, it may not be worth the effort. It's even easier to put new pads in every 20k kms.

I had to change out my stock rear pads at about 20k as well, even though the fronts were still good, and I didn't think I was using the rear that much either. (but I DO use the rear for trail braking in sharp, slow corners).

[gyrogearcrunch]

I think it's pretty normal on most disc brake vehicles, including cars.

One side of the caliper is always going to have more hydraulic pressure on it than the other.  I'm sure more advanced caliper designs on higher-end vehicles make things equal out better, but the Bandit rear brake is pretty stone-age.

Someone feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.  

You're right, but being stone-age brakes, the rear caliper is also simple to take apart and clean up. The rear brake on my bike seized up and turned the disc blue, it got so hot. I got a new set of piston seals, pads and disk before I took the caliper apart. One piston was very tight in the bore, so I used some very fine blue-cloth sandpaper I had to polish both piston and bore. I took the opportunity to loosen up the good piston just a tad so it better matched the one I sanded down. The rear brake has been perfect for the last 5K miles.

[06 Greyhound]

I took a look today and I compared the function to my boy's R6 and it seems to function just like mine.  The inside pad does move but not as much and the outside one.    I think I will get them replaced the next time it goes in for service.   I do a dealer service every three oil changes, just in case I miss something. 

[H2RICK]

Better late than never...

I think what you're wrestling with, Tony, is a lack of lubrication on your slide pins. The crud from the road and the pad dust builds up in the wrong places (as much as Suzuki/Nissin/Tokico try to prevent it) and eventually it stops the caliper body from sliding on the pins. This makes the automatic-centreing-on-application feature inoperative.... and thus, one pad wears more than the other.
The ONLY way to cure this is dismantlement of the caliper from the bracket and a thorough cleaning. Reassembly with the proper silicon based brake lubricant on the slide pins will eliminate your problem....
until the NEXT round of crud buildup.
You do NOT have to disconnect the brake hose or remove the piston to perform this operation. Just remember to use the brake grease sparingly so it doesn't ooze all over everything.
This is one of the ugly little jobs that NO ONE (including mechanics) likes to do....but it IS soooooo necessary to prevent a whole bunch of expensive problems from ocurring. The reward, of course, is properly operating brakes that feel so nice....in fact....like new.

[06 Greyhound]

Better late than never...

I think what you're wrestling with, Tony, is a lack of lubrication on your slide pins. The crud from the road and the pad dust builds up in the wrong places (as much as Suzuki/Nissin/Tokico try to prevent it) and eventually it stops the caliper body from sliding on the pins. This makes the automatic-centreing-on-application feature inoperative.... and thus, one pad wears more than the other.
The ONLY way to cure this is dismantlement of the caliper from the bracket and a thorough cleaning. Reassembly with the proper silicon based brake lubricant on the slide pins will eliminate your problem....
until the NEXT round of crud buildup.
You do NOT have to disconnect the brake hose or remove the piston to perform this operation. Just remember to use the brake grease sparingly so it doesn't ooze all over everything.
This is one of the ugly little jobs that NO ONE (including mechanics) likes to do....but it IS soooooo necessary to prevent a whole bunch of expensive problems from ocurring. The reward, of course, is properly operating brakes the feel so nice....in fact....like new.

Thanks Rick
That just I might be what I am dealing with.  Anyway I've scheduled a check up and service before I leave at the end of the month.  That will be a big trip with a lot of miles and I would like to have breaks before I leave.


Thanks